Page 4 of 5 FirstFirst 12345 LastLast
Results 40 to 52 of 57
  1. #40
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Posts
    3,157
    If it bothers you that much there is always the ######### forum

    thanks , I didnt catch that crack untill late this afternoon but due to the fact that I come here daily and not just to get free advice , I refuse to respond ---but any other time it would be on!

  2. #41
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Central Kentucky
    Posts
    6,247
    Those type of comments are not even worth the effort ct2.
    Have you set up a Google alert for Carbon Monoxide yet?
    Click here to find out how.

  3. #42
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    88
    Reply to hotinthesouth. When did you install the blinds? Internal shading adds more load to your home!!

  4. #43
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    340
    Originally posted by dexman
    Internal shading adds more load to your home
    I'm not saying that you are wrong, but this doesn't make intuitive sense. Unless maybe the shading is painted flat black and is in the direct sun.

  5. #44
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    88
    Travisfl, didn't make sense to me. Learned it at a seminar. I havn't checked it in manual J but it is in manual n. Look at solar heat gain factors for west facing glass (evening sun) for bare glass and compare them on the next page to internally shaded glass. It doesn't make sense to me still but it is in the book!!! Instructor says they absorb and retain heat.

  6. #45
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    340
    Originally posted by dexman
    Instructor says they absorb and retain heat.
    I believe this is only true when you put internal shading adjacent to heat absorbing glass. For clear and reflective-coated glass the shading coefficient is lower with all forms of internal shading.

  7. #46
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    88
    you may be right on that. Ill have to check. But I think you are referring only to shading factors and not solar factors. Both must be used and multiplied by sq. ft of window area. I may be out on a limb here but thought it was worth looking into when hotinthesouth said he could cool house when sun was gone. (solar heat gain factors) My "solar" charts make no distinction between types of glass. (table 2 manual n)

  8. #47
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Posts
    11,808
    Originally posted by travisfl
    Originally posted by dexman
    Internal shading adds more load to your home
    I'm not saying that you are wrong, but this doesn't make intuitive sense. Unless maybe the shading is painted flat black and is in the direct sun.
    You are saying internal shading is worse than no shading or worse than external shading?
    The way we build has a greater impact on our comfort, energy consumption and IAQ than any HVAC system we install.

    http://www.ductstrap.com/

  9. #48
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    88
    I'm saying try it so we will all know. It's been taught at seminars by guys smarter than me. I'm not saying it makes sense to me or that Ive tried removing any, however sometimes what makes sense is wrong. I do know that a commercial load done through manual n on windows w/internal shading will require more cooling reguardless of glass type.

  10. #49
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Posts
    11,808
    more cooling compared to external shading?
    The way we build has a greater impact on our comfort, energy consumption and IAQ than any HVAC system we install.

    http://www.ductstrap.com/

  11. #50
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    88
    Yes.External shading is better than internal or none at all.

  12. #51
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Maine
    Posts
    483
    Let's look at the facts here. We have a 2 ton unit in roughly 800ft2. Even though a rule of thumb was used to size it, it should be capable of pulling the house down to say 75* or so with no problems. If the refrigerant charge is in fact correct, then the only other problems would be airflow, or duct related. I think others on here are right on. You have a leaky duct somewhere. I have actually seen ducts forgoten to be hooked up when the install was made. You are losing a lot of btu's somewhere. On a mild day that loss of btu's is not enough to affect anything, but when the temps climb into the 90s you suddenly have an undersized unit. You need to get a pro in there to look at the home as a system. Any of the pros that regulary post in this forum, if they are near you, call them, they are not only good techs, they are great troubleshooters.

  13. #52
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Office and warehouse in both Crystal River & New Port Richey ,FL
    Posts
    18,836
    Originally posted by travisfl
    Originally posted by earthcondition
    Any suggestions?
    Measure the temperatures at your return and supply registers and (if you can get to it) at the return and supply plenums at the air handler, and post them here. If you have the condenser pressures from the tech's visit post them too, along with the outside temperature.

    Best suggestion for both the OP and the "aledged" hijacker,neither has responded.

    If the return temp at the grilles ,is much lower then the return temp at the retun plenum,you likely have large return air leak.They kill system capacity ,when is hot and sunny,you both need to check the temps,and post them.

Page 4 of 5 FirstFirst 12345 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Comfortech Show Promo Image

Related Forums

Plumbing Talks | Contractor Magazine
Forums | Electrical Construction & Maintenance (EC&M) Magazine
Comfortech365 Virtual Event