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  1. #14
    Not sure it is a trap issue unless someone with some know-how and experience can tell me if the running of the longer drain pipe would require a better trap or no trap at all.

    As I stated before, the previous drain run worked fine, except it was leaking somewhere between the first and second floor in the wall (i.e. cracked pipe or bad pipe connection). This is why I made the new run.

  2. #15
    It's been 24 hours since I added the silicon around the trap cleaner plug and I don't see any evidence of leakage. I will monitor the unit for the next week or so to see if there are any other leaks. I am still concerned about the water build up in the drain line.

  3. #16
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Posts
    322
    If the trap is on the negative pressure side, it has to be sized properly to prevent air from being sucked into the coil box and restricting condensate flow. If the trap is on the positive pressure side (and air is blowing out of any hole in the coil box) it shouldn't affect the water flow unless it's blocked somehow. If that cap at the tee is leaking, you can use pvc glue and glue a piece of pipe where you have the cap. As long as the pipe is taller than the trap it won't leak even if it's not capped. But make sure you remove all the silicone because nothing will stick to silicone.

  4. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    35
    I posted this on another thread.
    Do you have more when the unit cycles off?

    I have seen many times where there is a sag in the lineafter the trap. In other words the line has 2 traps. If this is the case the water will move up and down in the trap, at times raising the level up in to the connection at the coil. The air between the traps is the culprit.

    If this is the case,try adding some height to the T you have installed after the trap and drill a hole in the cap.

  5. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    35
    By more, i mean more water flow

  6. #19
    The cap seemed to do the job and I have witnessed the water draining outside. All appears fine. Removing the air in the pipe seemed to do the trick...either that or the pile up of the water along the PVC finally pushed its way to the end.?.?

  7. #20
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    northern mass
    Posts
    411
    For peace of mind I would flush out the line with something like a gallo gun just to make sure that something like a piece of insulation didn't get stuck in the pipe.

  8. #21
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Posts
    71
    Originally posted by marks
    I posted this on another thread.
    Do you have more when the unit cycles off?

    I have seen many times where there is a sag in the lineafter the trap. In other words the line has 2 traps. If this is the case the water will move up and down in the trap, at times raising the level up in to the connection at the coil. The air between the traps is the culprit.

    If this is the case,try adding some height to the T you have installed after the trap and drill a hole in the cap.
    That is certainly how I see it from the pictures....the top of the T should always be higher than the bottom of the main evaporator pan, and have a cap with a small hole (about 1/4 inch) hole in it....you can use a threaded piece it you still want to have access close to the drain line. Only costs a few bucks in PVC fittings and pipe...

    Any gravity drain needs a raised (higher than the drain point) air inlet to guarantee it works correctly. Your home drains have these, called "soil stacks". Most homes have several that can bee seen exiting the roof. A simple example is a soda straw: dip it in water and hold your finger over the top, and it won't drain when you pull it out. I think you're doing the same thing, holding a partial vacuum. The water at best will bubble out (instead of flowing), worse case it will "vacuum lock". Even if it seems to drain OK now, eliminating the possibility of vacuum lock will improve drainage and cause piece of mind.

    [Edited by robnjr on 06-22-2005 at 09:59 PM]

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