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Thread: Fryer Problems

  1. #14
    Join Date
    May 2010
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    1,295
    If you jumper the high limit and the pilot flame doesn't go out then you have a faulty high limit. Join the PRO side!

  2. #15
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    47
    Hi hope you checked the hi limit is wired into the pilot circuit and not inline with the thermostat. Been a pro....25 years and 6 figures.

  3. #16
    Join Date
    May 2010
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    1,295
    Why would the hi-limit not be wired into the pilot circuit? Every fryer I have ever worked on has been

  4. #17
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    47
    So you don't work on electrics? You have never seen a older frymaster, annets, dean wired this way? Never came across a missed wired fryer? I have never assumed anything when working on a piece of machinery. Insurance cost are just to high.

  5. #18
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    1,295
    No, I only have worked on restaurants that are 11yrs or younger. I work on a lot of electric commercial equipment

  6. #19
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    1,295
    I myself am not that old btw

  7. #20
    most fryer high limits have numbers printed on them that relate to the degree they will open the circuit and if your hi limit is opening earlier then that temp( and the probe is where mounted where it should be usually 1or 2 inches away from heat tubes ) then you have a bad hi-limit.

  8. #21
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Posts
    1,035
    why i replace both of them at the same time, to me it just don't make sense not to, the ones ive worked on the two run right beside each other, if your spending 20mins to get one out, you may as well get the other two, esp. if its gas if you have to take off some of the buner mainfold (pitco) or turn the unit on its side to get underneath it.

  9. #22
    Some would say why not replace both the t-stat and the hi limit when your replacing one component. but say if you performed a relieable test on the thermostat and holds good calibration , that could be money
    / Time needlessly spent to replace the thermostat. Getrdone's theory : If it ain't broke don't fix it

  10. #23
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    1,295
    ^ agreed. Got to seperate the boys (parts changers) from the men

  11. #24
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Over the river and through the woods
    Posts
    116
    So when I am faced with the classic failed fryer hi limit scenario, I will give the customer the option of replacing both T-stat and hi limit at the same time. If fact I strongly recommend doing so. Why would you change a component that has had its capillary immersed in hot grease and banged around by who knows how many indifferent fry cooks without advising that the component with a capillary RIGHT NEXT TO IT should be changed as well. Murphy's law states the other component will fail well within whatever warranty period you have, generally on a Friday night all you can eat fish fry. Most customers, even COD customers, will agree that this is the right way to fix their fryer. If not, I make a note of their decision on the ticket.

  12. #25
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    1,295
    ^ Parts changer. Might as well change the thermopile and gas valve then as well huh? If everything else is failing or going to lol.

    First off, the cap tubes should be secured near the heat exchangers but not touching, and shouldn't get banged around as there is a grate that covers them.

  13. #26
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Posts
    1,035
    Quote Originally Posted by ZeroTolerance View Post
    ^ Parts changer. Might as well change the thermopile and gas valve then as well huh? If everything else is failing or going to lol.

    First off, the cap tubes should be secured near the heat exchangers but not touching, and shouldn't get banged around as there is a grate that covers them.
    fixing a source of a future problem, the cost of the part is the only factor, you figure youll add another 10mins to the job by replace the t-stat aswell.

    the time you would spend getting the oil to temp and checking the calibration of the hi-limit would id say be the same amount as just putting in a new one

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