Page 3 of 5 FirstFirst 12345 LastLast
Results 27 to 39 of 54
  1. #27
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Lufkin, TX
    Posts
    24
    Quote Originally Posted by efficiency guy View Post
    I work for an electric coop in the south-central part of Quick advice: When you foam, especially with metal framing, make sure that "thermal bridging" can't occur between the framing members to an unfoamed portion. You probably already know that, but just in case...
    Our metal framing system doesn't just replace wood with steel. Our exterior walls are 18 gauge 6" galvanized steel studs at 4 foot OC with 1 1/2" hat channel on the outside of them and then 7/8" hat channel on the inside to make 8 3/8" thick exterior walls.

    This means there are only small "touch points" where the hat channel touches the studs to keep thermal bridging to an absolute minimum.

  2. #28
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    1,291
    Ya the 18 gauge steel studs are for structural support. Is it a metal shell with wood framing on interior? Why 4ft O.C.??? Less thermal bridging I suppose? Metal framing has its downfalls if not done right. Hope yours is being done right so you don't have an enormous energy bill each month.

  3. #29
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Float'N Vally, MS
    Posts
    1,807
    Quote Originally Posted by jgriggs View Post
    My wife and I are building our own home
    Hope your marriage survives it!

    A friend told me that this was the closest he came to a divorce.
    Life is too short, Behappy!
    TFMM

  4. #30
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Lufkin, TX
    Posts
    24
    Quote Originally Posted by ZeroTolerance View Post
    Ya the 18 gauge steel studs are for structural support. Is it a metal shell with wood framing on interior? Why 4ft O.C.??? Less thermal bridging I suppose? Metal framing has its downfalls if not done right. Hope yours is being done right so you don't have an enormous energy bill each month.
    We have metal framing on the interior as well. The system we used calls for 4 foot OC and there is hat channel running horizontally spaced every two feet on the inside and outside of the studs.

    It provides for a very strong structure and less thermal bridging. The interior studs are 20 gauge at 16" OC. The original "engineered" plans called for 24" OC for interior studs, but my framer said that's too much open space for drywall.

  5. #31
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Lufkin, TX
    Posts
    24
    Quote Originally Posted by behappy View Post
    Hope your marriage survives it!

    A friend told me that this was the closest he came to a divorce.
    We've heard that quite a lot, but so far it's been really good. The motto has been to expect the unexpected because this is our first rodeo with all this and lots of unexpected stuff has come up.

    We still have all the inside to finish out, so we'll see how that goes

  6. #32
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    1,291
    Ya 24" O.C. interior is too wide for resi use and abuse. Trust me, in construction there will always be unexpected things popping up no matter the project. Ya, your exterior wall setup is a good one especially since its metal and thermal bridging is a big problem in metal framing. As long as everthing is done right you will be very satisfied. If not, your energy bill will become your worst nightmare.

  7. #33
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Lufkin, TX
    Posts
    24
    Quote Originally Posted by jgriggs View Post
    Talked with a local company today. Feedback is welcome.

    This was all done over the phone and he said he would have to sit down with us and go over things more in detail.

    I told him our scenario and here is a summary of what he said:

    He told me up front that he was estimating the size of the unit and would have to use his software (O'brian is what he said he used I think) to get the actual unit size. He said that he could give us an actual unit size based on our blue prints. Is that the best way?

    He recommended doing some sort of report using an Energy firm out of the Dallas area.
    Think he was referring to Energy Wise.

    Does the main trunk line in 1.5" duct board and then uses the flex duct on the short runs.

    4 ton unit; 2 stages; he said the unit is able to remove humidity; thermostat control can be set to do humidity control; VS blower; recommends ERV; recommends heat pump

    2 configured units that he would recommend

    Lennox
    XP21048-230
    icomfort thermostat
    CBX40UHV-060
    16.2 SEER Rating

    XP16-048
    even heat on heat strips
    CBX32MV-060-230
    Hoping for some feedback on the 2 suggested systems.

    HVAC pros familiar with humid southern climates would you do it the same way or differently?

  8. #34
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Philadelphia PA
    Posts
    2,190

    Use thicker drywall

    24" OC for interior studs, but my framer said that's too much open space for drywall.Use 5/8" vs 1/2" and the spacing is not a problem

    Does the main trunk line in 1.5" duct board and then uses the flex duct on the short runs.
    Sounds like a sealed/insulated system ass well. My personal preference is to keep the return duct long enough to avoid noise problems and short enough to avoid increasing the need for more fan horsepower than really needed.
    Mention that to the installer and he'll understand
    You have got to learn from other people's mistakes! Because God knows you don't live long enough to make them all yourself !!!!!!!!

  9. #35
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Lufkin, TX
    Posts
    24
    Lennox
    XP21-048-230
    icomfort thermostat
    CBX40UHV-060
    16.2 SEER Rating

    XP16-048
    even heat on heat strips
    CBX32MV-060

    Still hoping for comments on the 2 proposed systems I listed above. Also, I had a contractor suggest the following two systems:

    3 ton 15seer luxaire heatpump acclamate system OR
    3 ton 17.65seer luxaire heatpump acclamate system


    These would both have the Acclimate Residential Communicating Control which looks like a really cool thing. Any thoughts on the reliability, functionality, or anything else on these units.

    I know posting prices isn't allowed, but am I allowed to ask if it makes sense to go with the second system if it's X amount of dollars more?

  10. #36
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    1,291
    I wouldn't do 24"O.C. even with 5/8" to be honest. I could still easily create a hole. That is my only concern with 24" spacing, also less area to hang and mount things such as tvs on walls, etc. Not saying you can't though

    Are you using wood framing for the interior?

  11. #37
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Lufkin, TX
    Posts
    24
    Zero and genduct, how about your thoughts on the proposed systems. Both of the Lennox systems were suggested by one contractor and both of the Luxaire were suggested by a different one.

  12. #38
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    1,291
    I am a huge Lennox fan. I mainly do repairs on commercial RTU's and Refer systems, so for residential installs... I really couldn't tell you. I think all manufacturers now days are close to even on quality of their units. I am sure many will disagree with me on this statement and I might possibly even get stoned.

    I will tell you one thing... I am not a fan of goodman lol (even though that isn't one of the systems you listed)

    NM about the wood framing on the interior as I saw you mentioned that in an earlier post

  13. #39
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Lancaster PA
    Posts
    67,722
    I think the Luxaire guy is coming closer to the size you need then the lennox guy.

    How long do you think your electric rate will remain at its current rate? If you think it will go up soon, and continue to increase, then the higher SEER unit makes sense. If you think it will remain at or close to its current rate, then the 15 SEER makes sense.
    Contractor locator map

    How-to-apply-for-Professional

    How many times must one fix something before it is fixed?

Page 3 of 5 FirstFirst 12345 LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Comfortech Show Promo Image

Related Forums

Plumbing Talks | Contractor Magazine
Forums | Electrical Construction & Maintenance (EC&M) Magazine
Comfortech365 Virtual Event