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Thread: ITS HOOOOT!

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Tampa, FL
    Posts
    18

    ITS HOOOOT!

    Purchased a 2nd floor 912sq ft condo unit in 2004 that has decent insulation but no proper attic vents. Replaced an old 1.5 ton system with what was thought to be all 2 ton Amana system. I am in Tampa, FL and during the summer days the unit will just keep running all day with inside temps of around 79-80. At night the system is fine and usually leave it around 74 75. I have been just dealing with the hot summer months letting it run all day but now I want to change it out and think a 3 ton system would better suit my needs.

    I have been looking at the model #'s and the condensor I have looks to be 24000 btu (2ton?) and air handler 32000 btu (2.5 ton) and from what I understand is perfectly fine.

    Does anyone think I should try and have the condensor changed out for a 2.5 ton unit or just replace everything for 3 tons?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Metro Atlanta, GA
    Posts
    393
    It may be better to have someone come measure the space and see what you really need rather than just throw bigger equipment at it. Adding insulation or sealing up air leaks may be a more cost effective way of getting you where you need to be.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Tampa, FL
    Posts
    18
    I was thinking about blowing more insulation into the attic space but I'm not too convinced that would help much?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Columbus Ohio
    Posts
    1,775
    1) Get a good reliable tech out there to check the system from head to toe, make sure what you have isn't broken.

    2) Have a heat gain/heat loss calculation and a blower door test done to determine if the system is sized right and see if you have room to improve your energy savings with things like insulation, sealing, etc..

    3) Proceed with an educated decision from there.

    Do not just throw numbers at what you think you need, you will be throwing money out the door.
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    10mm, because it's better than .45acp

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Tampa, FL
    Posts
    18
    Ok guys thanks for the input!

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Lancaster PA
    Posts
    62,203
    Where is your duct work? If its in the attic, have it checked for air leaks, and that all of the insulation is intact and sealed right.

    Might also want to have it cleaned and tuned.
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    How many times must one fix something before it is fixed?

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Tampa, FL
    Posts
    18
    Correct the duct work is in the attic pretty much in a straight line about 10 feet in either direction (handler is located in the middle.) I've been in the attic myself and couldn't feel any air leaks.

    What do you mean by make sure the insulation is sealed correctly?

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Charlotte, NC
    Posts
    155
    You may be under the mistaken impression that the A/C should not be running all the time in the summer. Actually, on the hottest summer days it should be running all the time, though it should also be able to maintain the temps you want it to maintain. Running all the time is more energy efficient and provides better comfort.

    If you are comfortable at 79-80 in summer daytime, and you might be if the humidity is low enough, then don't change it just because it is running all the time.

    Adding insulation, if you do not have enough, will make a difference. Checking the ducts and duct insulation as advised is also crucial, and make sure your air filter stays clean.

    It is not unusual to have an oversized indoor coil. Sometimes an unmatched-in-size combination is the most effective and efficient.

    I would definitely not try to change out just half the system. Not cost effective.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Tampa, FL
    Posts
    18
    During the hottest summer day when I turn on a bathroom faucet the cold water comes out almost boiling. I was thinking about insulating the pipes in the attic. Is this something I could also do to the duct lines?

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2000
    Location
    Indianapolis, IN, USA
    Posts
    31,553
    I've seen cases with ducts in the attic where over 1/2 the cooling capacity is lost to heat gain in the ducts. This doesn't even count return air leakage that could be sucking in hot humid air. So I'd say get up there and verify the integrity. Then blow as much insulation as you can OVER the ducts so they are BURIED. Be sure that soffitt air can get up past the insulation.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Tampa, FL
    Posts
    18
    Sounds like a plan and something relatively cheap I could do myself just have to wake up early to blow it in the attic. There are soffitt vents around the parimeter but no roof vents! I have complained so many times to the condo association about why some bldgs have it and some do not. They won't let me hire someone to install either they are worried about leaks.

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