ReplyCheck the O-ring on your tool. Could be torn and not letting you screw it in far enough. Also, any debris inside next to the core?
Regular Guest
was wondering if anyone has run into this.i have a trane xr12 4ttr2030.the low side is down to 40psi.when i removed the cap on high side there was some pressure there..found leak..went to use my yellow jacket tool to remove and replace core...the tool is too small to go onto the core...trane here local said they had never sold a tool or core...i know it's r410a....i ask some other suppliers...no one i've talked to knows about this being any differant than 22 tool.it screws on the fitting,just don't fit the core...with the cost of this stuff it would be nice to replace this without pumping it out
Professional Member
Check the O-ring on your tool. Could be torn and not letting you screw it in far enough. Also, any debris inside next to the core?
I'd rather have a bottle in front of me, than a frontal lobotomy.
Regular Guest
the core is much thicker,i guess the tool 's slot to go around the core could be filed out to fit but i use it far more on 22....is this something that trane alone did?
Professional Member
Just for kicks, try your tool on the low side. Could just be a defective core from the factory, or it got bent somehow when it was installed.
I'd rather have a bottle in front of me, than a frontal lobotomy.
Professional Member*
Maybe someone overtightened the cap on it and crushed the flare in so that the core extractor doesn't fit in far enough. I have run into that a lot.
I havn't ever had a problem on any Trane units when removing the cores from the service ports on the service valves when I am brazing the refrigerant lines on.
On Trane R410a heat pumps, the discharge and suction line service ports inside the unit do not use standard cores, it is a totally different type of fitting. The service ports on the service valves are just standard stuff though.
Member
use automotive tool
have had similar troubles in the past. if i remember correctly, i used an automotive removal tool that i just happen to have with me. don't know where i got it from, but it did the trick. one side of it was really big and the other side is the same size we use. i remember why i bought it! most removal tools extend only about 3/8 of inch. this tool extended about a full inch and stayed same size up to the knurl. thought i would get it for those cores that seem to be really deep. could also try using your tool that removes valve cores while it is still under pressure. the cut in that is a little wider than most, o-ring makes up the difference so it will grab the core.
Regular Guest
yes, they are inside the cabinet,and yes an auto tool,that i have,regular size on one end,and bigger on the other,does fit it,i guess i'm going to have to make something to work with the yellow jacket tool,it has not been bent...guess it's something trane tried for alittle while....unit is about 2 1/2 years old
Professional Member*
If it is one of the service ports behind the big panel on the side of the unit, that are directly on the discharge line from the compressor and the suction line to the compressor, they are not shrader valves, there is no core you can remove.
The entire fitting unscrews, they can be ordered from Trane. You will have to recover the refrigerant to change the fitting out.
I had one leak, pissed me off that I couldn't replace the core. I hate those fittings because of that.
Regular Guest
looked at it, and mark you are right,i will need to replace the whole thing,why would they do a dumd thing like that?i thank you for straighting me out!
Professional Member*
Yeah, I think they are dumb too.
I have only had one fail, but that one made me hate that style service port with a passion.
What I did was recover the refrigerant, cut the whole fitting out of the discharge line and install a tee with a regular service port on it.
Customer has a 10 year P&L warranty, so Trane footed the entire bill for the repair at least.
Another thing you could do is get one of those tee things that screws onto a service port and has 2 service ports on the tee. Same thing like you would use if you were adding a pressure switch to a system, but wanted to still be able to connect gauges at that point. Put some leak lock on the threads before you screw the tee on, no more problem.
Professional Member
Use a pinch off tool. Replace the ends and reopen.
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