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  1. #14
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    OKLAHOMA
    Posts
    104
    Pro tip: Anybody that puts you in the position of endangering youself by telling him or her the fault code from the outdoor unit is NOT "the guy"...

  2. #15
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Atlanta GA area
    Posts
    20,965
    Quote Originally Posted by Texanna Slim View Post
    Pro tip: Anybody that puts you in the position of endangering youself by telling him or her the fault code from the outdoor unit is NOT "the guy"...
    The 'fault code' at any board in a system... may mean a lot of things... a trained tech is necessary to understand all the possibilities.

    Lets get the rest of the basic info... and see what we find. I think I know where to start with this system, just need to know the indoor model/serial #'s.
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  3. #16
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Pacific Northwest
    Posts
    2,266
    I'd take a good hard look at the compressor.


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  4. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    St Louis, MO
    Posts
    54
    Yes, it does... You have a 'communicating' unit outside... I realize it is a hassle, but when you (or your husband) has time, the model/serial of the attic unit would be immense help. THX!
    JEZ is not communicating, JEC is. The control board has fault recall, so besides the current display the last 6 faults can be retrieved, with a max of 3 consecutive identical faults. Contractor should check the complete fault buffer for possible clues.

    Based on late 07 that unit should have both a Comfot control board and a demand defrost control installed.

  5. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    9

    Again?

    Okay, the latest. I do not have the indoor model/serial number. It's been crazy, and I didn't have the heart to ask hubby to do that.

    I know that it does have a defrost board separate from the main board.

    I kept it on emergency heat night before last because it was cooling down more than heating. Heat pump was off about 12 hours. Turned it back on yesterday afternoon and it ran perfectly until 8:30 this a.m. Has been running since then. Now, here's the fun part. It is not getting cooler in here. It's getting warmer. It's set on 71, is 73 and climbing, and I have the windows open to try and keep the system running until a tech can get here. Oh, and one more thing - it went through the defrost stage while running. It did the 'whoosh' thing. Kept running. Didn't stop.

    The fan is blowing on high speed, so I'm guessing that means it is running in "oh, crap it's 2 degrees outside" high-speed mode. (Second stage?). It's 40 degrees outside. Don't think it got much colder overnight, maybe down to 30 at the least.

    My theory? It's possessed. Only thing that makes sense. I cannot begin to tell you how frustrated I am at this point.

    Thanks to everyone who has responded. I do appreciate it. I just wish we could figure out what is going on, so that I at least don't feel like I'm singlehandedly keeping the power company's lights on.

  6. #19
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Pacific Northwest
    Posts
    2,266
    Quote Originally Posted by TLHaddix View Post
    Okay, the latest. I do not have the indoor model/serial number. It's been crazy, and I didn't have the heart to ask hubby to do that.

    I know that it does have a defrost board separate from the main board.

    I kept it on emergency heat night before last because it was cooling down more than heating. Heat pump was off about 12 hours. Turned it back on yesterday afternoon and it ran perfectly until 8:30 this a.m. Has been running since then. Now, here's the fun part. It is not getting cooler in here. It's getting warmer. It's set on 71, is 73 and climbing, and I have the windows open to try and keep the system running until a tech can get here. Oh, and one more thing - it went through the defrost stage while running. It did the 'whoosh' thing. Kept running. Didn't stop.

    The fan is blowing on high speed, so I'm guessing that means it is running in "oh, crap it's 2 degrees outside" high-speed mode. (Second stage?). It's 40 degrees outside. Don't think it got much colder overnight, maybe down to 30 at the least.

    My theory? It's possessed. Only thing that makes sense. I cannot begin to tell you how frustrated I am at this point.

    Thanks to everyone who has responded. I do appreciate it. I just wish we could figure out what is going on, so that I at least don't feel like I'm singlehandedly keeping the power company's lights on.

    Make sure the tech pulls all of the error codes. Hopefully there are more than the 05 code. Otherwise it's speculation.

  7. #20
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    9
    I couldn't get up with the guy who has been working on this the latest few times. He was supposed to call me this a.m. but didn't. I ended up calling in yet another company to help, and the guy actually showed up within thirty minutes of my call. He checked the thermostat first, then the indoor unit. Line coming in from outdoor unit was cold. Checked outdoor unit and lines were still cold. Something was hot that shouldn't have been, and he says it's the reversing/exchange valve. He kept trying to get it to kick in but it wouldn't. The gauges, when he put them on, showed that it wasn't doing anything as far as moving refrigerant.

    He's going to call his factory rep and talk to them, see what they think. He is sure it is the reversing valve, and says what some of you have - that there were issues with that year's models and the reversing valve. Since we're out from under the labor part of the warranty, we'll be on the hook for that, but he is hoping because this is an issue they've had with these units, Ruud will do something to help on that and on the cost of the refrigerant. (If any of this sounds hinky, please let me know. I like this new guy - he seems to know what he is doing - but I like the slogan 'trust but verify' as my personal credo.) He didn't even charge me for coming out here. That kind of impressed me.

    He says that the overheating - meaning I had windows and doors open, three windows and a screen door in open living room at 40 degrees outside and it was still pushing 73 degrees in here, even though stat was set on and showing 71 - doesn't make sense for it to be the reversing/exchange valve. We'll see if replacing it fixes things. Hope it does.

    Also, have it back on emergency heat, since something was getting too hot out there. I don't want to burn out the compressor, which I have a sneaking suspicion may have already happened, and I don't even want to consider what that might mean. Oh, is it true that Ruud will replace the entire outdoor unit if the compressor goes out?

  8. #21
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Pacific Northwest
    Posts
    2,266
    Still no further codes?

  9. #22
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    9

    It's fixed!

    At long last, it is fixed. It was the expansion valve. Has been fixed two weeks now. Thank God! Knock on wood.

    Thanks to everyone who tried to help. I do appreciate it.

  10. #23
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    tx
    Posts
    1,088
    Seems like a lot of work and wrong diagnosis to end up with a bad TXV.
    Bad information is worse than no information at all.

    There are three kinds of people in this world. Those who can count and those who can't!

  11. #24
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    9
    Hey, everyone. Guess who is back? Yep, me again.

    So the heat pump worked perfectly after the reversing valve was replaced....until two months ago. Maybe three. Time flies when you're having fun, right?

    Here's the new deal. It blew a low-voltage fuse on the outdoor unit. Aside from some very minor grunting, and I mean very minor, about a month prior to the blown fuse, it was fine. So my guy comes out, replaces the fuse. Then the fuse on the indoor unit blows. He comes out, replaces it, thinks there has to be a problem with the defrost board, because I think it actually blew a fuse while it was in defrost. Orders new ones. I switch to emergency heat, the boards come in (he replaced all the boards, just to be safe), and it runs for a few hours normally. Maybe even a couple of days. Then it blows the outdoor fuse again.

    He comes back out, scratches his head, says it could have been the fan motor, as the fan didn't want to start back up once they replaced the first fuse. So we replace the fan motor. Didn't fix it. Blew another fuse. Back on emergency heat. He talks to his rep, and after that discussion, comes back out, replaces the blown fuse (what is this, five now?), and takes the defrost relay off line.

    Unit runs fine for two weeks. We think we have it nailed. The night before he is scheduled to replace the relay, it blows another fuse. (Insert cursing here, his and mine.)

    He replaces the fuse and the relay. It runs for a couple of days. Blows another fuse. He comes back out, replaces the fuse. It runs for two or three hours. Blows another one. That was today.

    When it is running properly the only thing it does that is out of the norm is grunts. It grunts when it is running in the first stage, normal operation. I'm thinking compressor, he says no. But the grunting....I know it's the compressor making that sound, because that's the same noise it made when it was overcharged. It isn't as loud or severe, but it's the same noise.

    So, any ideas? And is it time to just give up and replace the outdoor unit? Call the manufacturer and beg them to replace it? What?

    Thanks, all.

  12. #25
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    NC Sandhills
    Posts
    393
    I dont see why compressor would blow low (24volt) fuse in either unit. Maybe the insulation on thermostat wire is compromised somewhere and is shorting or grounding out. Could be the boards but they have been replaced so that leans me toward one of the tstat wires. A thermostat wire has thick insulation covering several small wire which have thier on thinner insulation/covering which is easy to tear especially if its been exposed to sun for long period of time. If it runs a while in heat then blows fuse it could be aux heat wire shorted somewhere. As far as the compressor grunting sometimes; we can only speculate unless onsite. Did the tech check pressure or amperage to compressor? It is possible that it could be having issues running so long with bad TXV previously (you said TXV in one post and change over valve in other) What ever caused last txv (if it was txv) to fail could have done same to this one over time as in contaminated refrigerant. But again I think that is seperate from your low voltage fuse problem. Is the thermostat wire going to outdoor unit exposed or in a conduit (plastic sleeve). Ive seen people knick them with weed eater, dog chew on them or it could be rubbing against unit somewhere. I hope it works out as that is too nice a unit to replace this soon.

  13. #26
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Pacific Northwest
    Posts
    2,266
    Previously you said the expansion valve was replaced to fix your initial problem but in your latest post you cited the reversing valve as having been replaced. .. which is it?

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