I thought you commercial guys would most likely know the answer to this question (no..its not a 2000 ton Absorber, but, my little dinky Absorption RV fridge).
Its accessible from the back , and I insulated the Boiler/Generator section of it ; was wondering if its best to insulate the Absorber section and little Collection Tank underneath it, or, if its important for air to circulate over these sections ?? Which is best for operation efficiency ?
Thanks much. Dave
Would you be talking about one of those 3 way units 12v/120v/propane? Made by Dometic? If so you don't want to insulate anything on them, they get hot enough. I have one of these in my Volkswagen Westfalia. Its been working great since new in 1985.I just pull it out of the cabinet once a year to clean the dust out of it and clean the thermocouple.even makes ice
Yes..its a 3 way Dometic. The Boiler/Generator was already insulated but not very well in my estimation. So, i added alot more to it. True, the Absorber section and the Collection Vessel under it is hot...but maybe hotter the better (??) Dont know. Thats why im throwing this question out there . If it is supposed to be hot and hotter is good for the operation of the chemical reaction taking place inside, then, id like to insulate it. If not and cooling it is what it needs, then, ill hook up a small 12 vdc fan in front of it.
Need to know for sure though. Need someone who truly knows whats best . No guessing. Need solid answers.
sometimes if it works leave it, the manufacture has designed it and there are lots of them out there working that look just like yours.
absorbers will break if they get to hot or if they get to cold.
The space behind the unit is for air to flow in from the access panel out through a vent in the roof. Blocking this space with more insulation will hinder the operation of the unit. The only section that I have ever seen insulated(forgive me for my lack of absorber jargon) is the section of pipe where the heat pickup takes place directly above the burner. Too much heat will cause these units to:
a.) Not operate satisfactorily
b.) Vapour lock
c.) Build up excess pressure inside the system wich generally results in a leak, meaning somebody gagging when they either enter the premises or open the door from the buildup of ammonia gasses.
In short, after reviewing your post, these parts are uninsulated for a reason.
As always with respect,
Yes we have air conditioning in our igloos.
Sounds good to me. Ill keep the other components uninsulated then. I did provide more insulation to the Boiler/Generator section where the electric heaters are encased in a metal cylinder which is where the little propane burner goes into as well. Ive added a small vane axial fan in front of the Condensor portion and also an additional vane axial fan for the Absorber section which has tubes running back and forth for about 5 turns ; the fans will pull air across and discharge out the exterior RV grille. I did stuff insulation between the exterior cabinet and the walls -- there was about a 2" inch gap. Also insulated on the top of it too with 1" foam insulation. Theres a gap underneath the unit , but, i cant get insulation under it as there are supports that block it pretty much. The thing really cools good --- refrig. section is at 34 f. and freezer is at 5 f.
Thanks for the tips.