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  1. #1
    I am not real familiar with Absorption Refrigeration...only Vapor Compression systems. On my RV, i can remove an exterior panel that exposes the backside of the Refrigerator with the Absorption components in clear view (except the Evaporator of course). The Refrigerator is a 3-way : Either Propane, 115 v. electric heater(s), or 12 vdc heater(s). There was a very minimal amount of insulation around the Generator/Boiler section so i added alot more insulation . My question is: Which other components or tubing can i add Insulation to that would enhance the operation of the Refrigeration Cycle ??

    Thanks. Dave

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2001
    Location
    Bennington, Vermont U.S.A.
    Posts
    13,864
    From what I understand about these RV units is that they are pretty simple. The 2 biggest problems are shooting up in the generator. Which is caused by a critter in the flue.

    Second thing is that the sodium solution that in absorbs the R-717 gets crystalized over the winter.

    The fix is to take the unit outside and turn it upside down. This breaks up the salt solution. Clean out the burner and flue. Re-install it and give it a rip.

    If that dosen't work then Igloo make a nice ice chest that hold tons of beers.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Victoria,Tx
    Posts
    6,680

    benncool

    I didn't know that it was so easy. Just take a RV frig turn it upside down and walla! Fixed! Thanks Roy

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    657
    When the RV is not moving and the refrigerator is running make sure the refrigerator is level.

  5. #5
    Does anyone know, for sure, which components are ok to insulate ? Ive done the Generator Section....what about the other things ?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Delaware
    Posts
    350
    Originally posted by hvacfella
    Does anyone know, for sure, which components are ok to insulate ? Ive done the Generator Section....what about the other things ?
    Dave, see the following:

    http://www.nh3tech.org/absorption.html

    It may be a bad idea to add any insulation. You may change the flow of solutions in the unit and prevent the weak and strong ammonia from flowing properly through the system. The correct operation of the unit depends on the proper flow of the solutions, and if you start changing the differential temperatures between the components it may not work very well. You are not likely to know more than the manufacturer who did not put insulation in the unit in the first place. In other words, if it isn't broken don't fix it.

  7. #7
    'You are not likely to know more than the manufacturer who did not put insulation in the unit in the first place. In other words, if it isn't broken don't fix it
    '

    Rob, I used to think that Manufacturers of things made thier product the best possible way ; in my 51 years of living, i have learned otherwise. The greatest concern of Manufacturers is PROFIT first with occasional turnout of a well engineered product . As a simplified example : I have yet to see ONE automobile whereby the a/c condensor is sealed around the sides, top, and bottom so maximum airflow goes thru it, instead of bypassing around it.

    In the concept of Mass Production, there are always things which are either overlooked, given little thought about, and/or purposely abandoned when it shouldnt be. I cant begin to tell you the many mechanical things which i have bought then redesigned or modified for better operation .

    I do, however, appreciate your tip that adding insulation to certain components may affect the operation efficiency of my RV's absorption fridge, and once i better understand its operation, ill be in a better position to decide what to do, if anything , concerning insulating. Thanks,Dave

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Benton, KY
    Posts
    5
    Additional insulation may not be required, but it is essential to have insulation in certain places. Two such places are around the boiler just above the burner and between the flue and the boiler at the top of the flue. If your refrigerator does not work on LP but it does on electric and all else checks out, it could be that the flue is touching the boiler. The insulation around the boiler just above the burner ensures that a hot spot does not develop inside the refrigerator compartment. This adds heat to the refrigerator compartment. We have even seen it start to melt the plastic liner! More information is available in the book, "Average Joe's RV Refrigerator Troubleshooting & Repair Guide".
    Last edited by techtraining; 02-11-2013 at 04:57 PM. Reason: Inaccurate information that needed changing

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