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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
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    Tallahassee, FL
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    6,031

    Vulcan Stackable Gas oven.

    Has anyone some experience with these?

    I have a VC4GD-C4

    It is stacked on a identical model.

    The one im working on is slow to heat (and cook) Chef is complaining about the lower oven outperforming the upper.

    The burner seems to be functioning..also unit has a NO IGNTITION lamp that will illuminate if flame is not sensed.


  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
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    6,211
    Does it have a removeable temp. sensor for the thermostat ?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
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    Tallahassee, FL
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    Quote Originally Posted by VTP99 View Post
    Does it have a removeable temp. sensor for the thermostat ?
    The thermostat seems to be reading and sensing properly.

    I know weird situatuion.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Mesa, AZ
    Posts
    120
    I've got a few units like that (Vulcan/Hobart).......is the no ignition light lit? Even if it isn't, you need to check the flame sense rod and or ignitor to verify that they're working properly. If it's a hot surface ignitor, it's possible that it's getting weak even if it looks like it's hot enough to light. If the flame sense rod is eroded, dirty, or warped, you won't be picking up flame consistently enough to keep it lit.

    Hope this helps........Kevin

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    fort walton beach fl.
    Posts
    790
    Proper gas pressure at burners? Thermostat calibration checked?
    http://acfwb.com/

    "The best preparation for good work tomorrow is to do good work today"

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Tallahassee, FL
    Posts
    6,031
    Thanks for the replys guys.

    kitchenfixer - The unit is spark ignition with seperate flame sense (rod) built in - I sat and watched the oven for 15minutes or so and watched it stay lit for me. I will look into this further though when i return.

    smurphy- Im not sure what the manifold pressure should be? 3.5"?

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    1,295
    I've worked on several of these units. Is this a digitally controlled unit or old knob style?

    From my experience it has been a
    1. bad temp probe in the upper right corner of the oven
    2. bad thermostat control or thermostat control not calibrated
    3. oven doors are not sealing properly or the ball latch is broken.
    4. burner assembly is dirty not allowing flame travel to reach its full potential. (Flame only traveling 1/2 way up the burner assembly tube)
    5. the orifice is dirty or something is obstructing it.
    6. gas pressure low

    Remove the bottom panel that has the gas valve shutoff door on it (Should be held on by 6 phillips head screws, 2 on each side and two on the top hidden by the oven doors). Once that is removed you will see the wires for the flame sense, spark ignition wire, gas orifice, and gas line. Remove the metal gas line that has two bolts holding it on (12mm If i recall correctly) then remove the piece of metal that blocks the view of the flame that is held in place with i believe two phillips head screws. put the gas line with orifice back on the burner assembly and then start up the oven. See what the flame does when the oven is heating up

    I also had a unit that had a short in one of the wires so when I was called to check it out, it worked fine. Then when I left it started acting up again.


    Usually its not due to the ignition or flame sense.

    Anytime I have a problem with a specific unit I go to the manufacturers website and download the service manual. Saved my ass plenty of time and the customers time and money. Or you can also call Vulcan hart for support

    https://my.vulcanfeg.com/resourcecen...ion/F24682.pdf
    Last edited by ZeroTolerance; 02-09-2011 at 05:55 PM.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Tallahassee, FL
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    6,031
    Appreciate that link.

    Lets talk more about option #4.

    It is a knob style control.

    I observed what appeared to me a normal flame around entire perimeter of burner.

    Now im not sure about pressure.

    The temp control seemed to respond accurately and cycle burner on and off at the correct (indicated) temp. -- I plan to verify this with my nicer high end meter.

    It just would show HEAT ON light and not reach temp quickly.

    Which brings us back around

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    1,295
    Gas Line Pressures
    Natural - Recommend (in. W.C.) 7.0, Min 5.0

    Input BTU Rating
    Natural Gas - 44,000 BTU input at 3.5 in. W.C.

    Check to make sure doors are sealing properly. I know this can effect the heat up time if hot air is escaping

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Tallahassee, FL
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    6,031
    Im guessing you would feel an immense amount of heat around perimeter?

    I didnt notice an obvious one but admittently.... wasnt looking.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    47
    You can start both ovens up at the same time and observe which oven cycles off first. Having two temp meters makes this fairly simple. If the slower oven doesn't cycle off close to the other I would check manifold pressure, burner condition and orifices.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    6,211
    With the burner cover removed you can easly see the burner. Do both flames look the same ? Put a oven thermometer in there and see when the burner cycles off.

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