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  1. #1
    42yrs exp is offline Professional Member BM -bad email address
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Posts
    176
    SMAC, where can I get a 24 volt smoke detector? That would solve the problem. I could hook it onto the low voltage side of the 230 volt transformer that's on the attic air handler.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    St Paul, Minnesota
    Posts
    3,468
    wire it right and you won't have to worry about the smoke getting out.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    7,680
    Your kidding right? Most of the duct mounted smoke detectors are 230v, 115, and 24volt depending on where you connect to it.

    And as mike says, if you miswire it, you will let the smoke out.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Eugene, Oregon
    Posts
    1,209
    Are you looking for a duct mount detector? Ionization type or Photoelectric? Either way, if it is a duct type detector all that I have used wire to most voltage demands with break switches for R in air handler and relays for security systems, Try Firex or System Sensor. Johnstone has them.
    Proud supporter of Springfield Millers and Oregon Ducks.

  5. #5
    42yrs exp is offline Professional Member BM -bad email address
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Posts
    176

    need 230 or 24 volt

    I have seen 115 volt smoke detectors and 9 volt battery. But in philadelphia I have not found 230 volt or 24 volt. Where can I get one of those? I do not want battery operated. I need either 230 volt or 24 volt.

    And to those goof balls who say if you wire it write,etc,etc. Are you going to pay the electrican. I need something that works on the power that is already there.230 0r 24 volts.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    San Luis Obispo County, CA
    Posts
    215
    If you are really desperate, you could use a step-down transformer on the 230 volt circuit to get you 115 volt.

    Seems to me though, you should be able to pull 115 from one of the rooms below without that much problem.

    Is there really no light in this attic?

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Clayton,NC
    Posts
    407
    I don't see the problem. Go to any united refrigeration or most supply houses that deal with commmercial contractors and you can get the detector. It's a common item that every commercial unit is suppose to have.

    47. UNITED REFRIGERATION INC.
    11401 Roosevelt Blvd.
    Philidelphia, PA,
    Profile:HVAC 25%, HVAC Controls 25%, Refrigeration 50%


    Johnstone Supply store locations in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania

    4700-B Wissahickon Ave.

    http://www.johnstonesupply.com/scrip...=yes&category=

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    san jose,ca.
    Posts
    5,285
    http://www.grainger.com stock # 3pb54

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    St Paul, Minnesota
    Posts
    3,468
    Originally posted by MikeJ
    wire it right and you won't have to worry about the smoke getting out.
    And to those goof balls who say if you wire it write,etc,etc. Are you going to pay the electrican. I need something that works on the power that is already there.230 0r 24 volts.


    OK, I was just having a little late nite fun.
    I hope the other posts helped you find what you were looking for. No hard feelings?

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    San Luis Obispo County, CA
    Posts
    215
    115 volt is already there... surprised nobody else, including me with my first post didn't see it...

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Grottoes VA
    Posts
    5,856
    According to NEC it's not.




    You need a neutral dude. If not you may kill someone.
    Karst means cave. So, I search for caves.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Tampa, Florida
    Posts
    1,634
    Give these guys a try:
    http://www.gentex.com/fire_plo.html

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    San Luis Obispo County, CA
    Posts
    215
    Should have a neutral, at least thats the way I run 220. Wire it as a sub-panel, 220 double pole for the air handler, 110 single pole for the smoke alarm. A lot to go thru for a detector, but if he doesn't want to run a 110 line up to the unit...
    I still think it should be possible to find a 110 circuit that could be tapped to power the detector. i mean, there must be walls with outlets below this attic.

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