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  1. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Office and warehouse in both Crystal River & New Port Richey ,FL
    Posts
    18,836

    Re: Answers.

    Originally posted by mdb2097
    Original duct work, this was a changeout. I had 6 different companies provide quotes. This contractor was not the cheapest and had the best reviews from realatives. None of the 6 did any calculations, just looked and quoted.

    That's why I say ,friends and relatives don't know a good contractor from a bad one.They only know if there system "works",big difference,as you can see,your system likely "works" okay,but not a quality install.

  2. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    Houston,Tx.
    Posts
    15,912
    Were is is the transition? I don't see one never mind I went to the other pictures and saw.
    __________________________________________________ _______________________
    “Experience is a hard teacher because she gives the test first, the lesson afterwards". - Vernon Law

    "Never let success go to your head, and never let failure go to your heart". - Unknown

  3. #16
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    17

    More questions.

    Hi Dash,
    The contractor is going to come back to address any issues that I have. Can you fill me in as to why you think this was not a quality install so that I can speak more intellegintly with him. Thanks in advance.

  4. #17
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Niantic, Illinois
    Posts
    545
    The package unit on the ground looks good as long as the duct connections on the other side of that wall are tight and seales. The furnace in the attic, well, the drain pan should have been large enough to be under the entire coil. In my are it's code to put a drain pan under the entire furnace and coil. It may have been there, but I didn't see the emergency drain coming from the drain pan. The drain pan should be elevated so if it did fill with water it will drain. I also would have used 4x4 cut a bit longer than the furnace is front to back, layed them under furnace and coil facing front to back. Put down a drain pan then put down more 4x4 in the drain pan that lay across the 4x4 under the drain pan for support. Set the furnace on this with some rubber isolaters and you have a solid, properly draining and completely protected by the drain pan job. That's how we do them in central Illinois.

  5. #18
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    17

    still more questions.

    Hello all. I am still curious to know if I got the correct equipment tonnage for the job. He quoted 2 1/2 for the upstairs. Can someone read the model number posted originally and clear it up for me? Please Also, no one has noted the seam between the furnace and the coil and the subsequent leak. (air also coming from pipe entrys into coil) What should that look like? Hopefully with some direction, I'll be able to get this guy to correct any issues.

  6. #19
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Office and warehouse in both Crystal River & New Port Richey ,FL
    Posts
    18,836
    The only model I see posted is the furnace,not the A/C.

    The coil box doesn't fit/match up very well with the supply duct,hard to tell what they did from the picture.

    All the things you mantioned are valid concerns,as well.

  7. #20
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    2,597
    the flue pipe should be b-vent (double wall) in an unconditioned area, of course with the air leaking from the duct work maybe it is conditioned.

    nice gas line snaking around the floor into the furnace, or is that a snake?

    electric wiring should be secured and not just hanging.

  8. #21
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Suppy NC
    Posts
    4,513
    you have a 75,000 btu 3 ton drive furnace
    1200 cfms total
    the flex on the return looks like **** and looks to be a little small for the cfms you need. should never restrick the return because you can only get out what you take in
    the gas whip is aluminum and is agaisnt all the new codes i know of. should be replaced with stainless steel whip.
    i dont like whips but they are legal as long as stainless is used. what size unit was there before and was a duct calculation done on the duct for the new unit
    there is a float switch in the emergency pan and that is good if you have a problem but it should also have a pipe ran to the outside also. if for some reason the switch fails you will have a water problem. since you have fiberglass dut and it was disturbed check all connections and make sure they havent pulled apart and are not leaking
    run duct for the return for proper air intake
    dont under stand why guys think flex is so much better when it is so restrictive.
    hope all goes well and you can get what you paid for

  9. #22
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    SE Michigan
    Posts
    17,887
    Was there a permit pulled for the job? It should be inspected. Unless you live in the boonies. Good luck, and make sure he makes the corrections mentioned above. Definatly a careless install.
    " Kill a Commie for Mommy! "

    - Colonel David Hackworth (1930-2005), Korean War Vet

  10. #23
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    17
    What is the gas whip? Is that the snake looking thing on the floor? Is it a hazzard to not use stainless? As far as I know a permit was not pulled. I had six different companies come out and quote and none mentioned a permit. Who should I contact about an inspection? Previous unit was of equivalent size. 75000 btu, 2 1/2 ton .

  11. #24
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    17

    Angry Package Unit Pictures -- Inside.


  12. #25
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Niantic, Illinois
    Posts
    545

    Re: Package Unit Pictures -- Inside.

    Originally posted by mdb2097
    Please review the pics below. How should the bottom gap be sealed? How should the seams be sealed? Would "Good Stuff" be sufficient to seal the bottom or could that damage the unit?

    http://img44.echo.cx/img44/1593/10013822gn.jpg
    http://img44.echo.cx/img44/5551/10013831tz.jpg
    http://img44.echo.cx/img44/4281/10013845no.jpg
    http://img44.echo.cx/img44/4004/10013859ut.jpg
    http://img44.echo.cx/img44/87/10013861rw.jpg
    http://img44.echo.cx/img44/1268/10013878ir.jpg
    http://img44.echo.cx/img44/2932/10013881ug.jpg
    Wow, that's terrible. Mastic or at least hvac grade caulk should be used to seal that stuff up/ The wiring should be tidied up and secured at the least. Insulation should be prettied up as well and realy should go all the way to the unit.

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