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Thread: EER OR SEER ???

  1. #1

    EER OR SEER ???



    I got this info from the AHRI website

    Armstrong 4 ton two stage system, 16 seer rated:

    SEER: 15.00
    EER: 11.50
    AHRI# 1048492

    Bryant 4 Ton single stage system, 16 seer rated:

    SEER: 16.00
    EER: 13.00
    AHRI# 3838165

    Which one is going to save me money on the bills if I live in Houston, TX?
    According to the AHRI website the single stage unit is cheaper to operate but everyone says go 2-stage????

    Thanks

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2000
    Location
    Indianapolis, IN, USA
    Posts
    34,170
    The single stage has superior EER and SEER and will be the cheapest to use. Since I'm not that impressed with the unloading scroll, where low is 75-80% of high, I'd personally get the higher SEER for steamy Houston. For better humidity control, a variable speed blower with dehumidification control is best, like the Evolution system.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Round Rock
    Posts
    3,559
    If you are looking at this solely for the purpose of high energy bills. You need to look at making your house more efficient first, such as through insulation, better windows, sealing up leaks. You will find that you energy bill will lower some by installed in better equipment, but it isn't going to be a large amount if you have an inefficient house.
    I like DIY'ers. They pay better to fix.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    The Quad-Cities area (midwest).
    Posts
    2,694
    Quote Originally Posted by BaldLoonie View Post
    The single stage has superior EER and SEER and will be the cheapest to use. Since I'm not that impressed with the unloading scroll, where low is 75-80% of high, I'd personally get the higher SEER for steamy Houston. For better humidity control, a variable speed blower with dehumidification control is best, like the Evolution system.
    B.L.
    I did not know about the unloading scrolls (75-80%). Hardly seem worth it.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    SW Wisconsin
    Posts
    4,989

    Arrow Optimal Home Energy Efficiency Practices...

    Quote Originally Posted by bmathews View Post
    If you are looking at this solely for the purpose of high energy bills. You need to look at making your house more efficient first, such as through insulation, better windows, sealing up leaks. You will find that your energy bill will lower some by installing better equipment, but it isn't going to be a large amount if you have an inefficient house.
    First, I fully agree with Baldloonie's post & this post.

    Make sure to make duct system modifications when needed to more efficiently move air.

    The quickest payback, especially in cold climates is reducing the home's heat/loss & gain.

    In most applications, the smaller equipment requirements will improve duct system & blower efficiency which establishes an optimal evaporator heatload, with a TXV metering device, during all light or heavy load operating conditions.

    A lot of evaporators, especially on 3.5 to 5-Ton systems, don't have a sufficient heatload going through them, to the point they can lose a half to a ton of their rated capacity. (First, - When possible, always reduce the Home's Load to lower tonnages.)

    On Oil furnaces with the E-Coil placed directly on top of the furnace, I witnessed a 1.5-Ton (TXV metered) A/C extremely low on required airflow; nearly all Oil Furnaces need airflow CFM checked.

    The Condenser discharge air temp/split was way low, however, Indoor Airflow was never checked by that company; it is also low on refrigerant!
    Last edited by udarrell; 01-29-2011 at 09:47 AM. Reason: Added - the smaller equipment requirements

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    Houston,Tx.
    Posts
    16,000
    Quote Originally Posted by udarrell View Post
    Make sure to make duct system modifications when needed to more efficiently move air.
    Your so right Darrell, and you better be watching out for furnace size these days for cfm's, rather than just system tonnage. We just did a job where the furnace had to be a 100,000 matched to a 3-ton system to meet the Tax requirement credits, imagine that! now you have 5-tons of air "possibly" blowing through and old 3-ton duct system. We had to add four supplies and one return for this job. I know a lot of folks will say, Bill, adjust the dip switches, or isn't that a variable speed? So your going to out engineer the engineers? This system in "Houston" will probably run on high most of the time, so if your adjusting the cfm's "technically" you would be killing some of the efficiency of the system. And here's another thought, if your going to just adjust the dip switches, say possibly down to 1600 cfm's, why could I have not just sold you a 4-ton furnace? see this government stuff has really mess up the whole puzzle. I will be so happy when there are no rebates, or incentives, because if we were able to sell you what you only need for your home, you would save money that way, and have a far better system for your particular home.
    __________________________________________________ _______________________
    “Experience is a hard teacher because she gives the test first, the lesson afterwards". - Vernon Law

    "Never let success go to your head, and never let failure go to your heart". - Unknown

  7. #7
    I have rebuilt the walls that face the sunny side with tar paper, radiant barrier, better insulation and platic membrane was added.

    In the attice I will have the radiant barrier done in two week and will have 2' of insulation added before summer.

    I'm getting there....I think

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