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  1. #1

    lockout on high presure

    I have a Hydro heat geo system that for two year it keeps locking out on high pressure repair man been here 17 times no help from company

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    TN
    Posts
    93
    locking out during heat or cool or both

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    East of Lyndon's
    Posts
    525
    Not a lot of info. Is it a forced air system or a hydronic?
    If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.

  4. #4

    lock out on high pressure

    It locks out on both it also heat my hot water. it will start heating the hot water than it will call for heat or cool than it lock out .It will reset it twice than it stays lock out. I have talk to the factory and the customers service people but know one seems to help.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Morgan Hill Ca.
    Posts
    1,219
    Quote Originally Posted by nascarcar View Post
    It locks out on both it also heat my hot water. it will start heating the hot water than it will call for heat or cool than it lock out .It will reset it twice than it stays lock out. I have talk to the factory and the customers service people but know one seems to help.

    I have worked on and designed these systems, you have a very normal problem, without giving you the actual how-to, there needs to be additional high pressure switches and the addition of a HGBP valve.

    I have systems that maintain 125-130*F hot water temps and have only recently figured out how to get them to heat the domestic water and the home simultaneously....The easiest solution (read; cheap) is a lock out program for the house heat if it has a major demand for DHW....

    Good luck.

    GT
    If a day goes by and you have learned nothing, I hope you got a lot of sleep.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    NYC
    Posts
    423
    Quote Originally Posted by nascarcar View Post
    repair man been here 17 times no help from company
    That's ridiculous! find a new company

  7. #7

    high pressure lock out

    Quote Originally Posted by GT Jets View Post
    I have worked on and designed these systems, you have a very normal problem, without giving you the actual how-to, there needs to be additional high pressure switches and the addition of a HGBP valve.

    I have systems that maintain 125-130*F hot water temps and have only recently figured out how to get them to heat the domestic water and the home simultaneously....The easiest solution (read; cheap) is a lock out program for the house heat if it has a major demand for DHW....

    Good luck.

    GT
    I have a new person comming out next week to look at the sysytem what should I tell them Iam not sure what read / cheap is that a program. can I buy and where at . also where are the extra high pressure switches located and the hgbp valve

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Morgan Hill Ca.
    Posts
    1,219
    Quote Originally Posted by nascarcar View Post
    I have a new person comming out next week to look at the sysytem what should I tell them Iam not sure what read / cheap is that a program. can I buy and where at . also where are the extra high pressure switches located and the hgbp valve

    An HGBP is a hot gas bypass valve, it will be used to remove some of the load off the condenser side of the system (not reduce the load on the evaporator like normal) when excessively high head pressure is experienced.

    "Read; cheap" means just what it sounds like, it means an inexpensive fix....

    More information is needed to let you know exactly what your system needs, but your old tech was not going to figure it out at 17 visits...IMHO

    GT
    If a day goes by and you have learned nothing, I hope you got a lot of sleep.

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by GT Jets View Post
    An HGBP is a hot gas bypass valve, it will be used to remove some of the load off the condenser side of the system (not reduce the load on the evaporator like normal) when excessively high head pressure is experienced.

    "Read; cheap" means just what it sounds like, it means an inexpensive fix....

    More information is needed to let you know exactly what your system needs, but your old tech was not going to figure it out at 17 visits...IMHO

    GT
    what kind imformation due you need i would call you if you would like to talk about it

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Lancaster county PA.
    Posts
    34

    Hmm many possibilities

    Is your unit an older wtarw model or a megatek. Also, is the high pressure occurring in every mode at any time or only when shifting into or out of water heating mode. If during the shift or soon after a shift, I think possibly your diverting valve is "sticking" and your discharge gas is not going where it belongs.
    If this is an older unit consider this, it used to work normally, so it should not need a modification, it needs a repair.
    There are many other possibilities for high pressure and I do not have enough details to know for sure what is wrong.
    Good luck, Brian.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    12
    if it is locking out on high pressure in cooling and heating, i would say you have a bad control or the system is over charged. i have seen tx valves cause high pressure trips, but the units will work in cooling and not heating. if a reversing valve wasn't working properly, they usually stick in the mid position, so a high pressure trip wouldn't be a problem

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Location
    east kansas
    Posts
    8,027
    Have your guy look at domestic water flow during DWH. Look for low flow. Do you have a water softener?
    Beware of advice given by some guy on the Internet.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Lancaster county PA.
    Posts
    34

    Smile been there done that

    Quote Originally Posted by rcameron View Post
    if it is locking out on high pressure in cooling and heating, i would say you have a bad control or the system is over charged. i have seen tx valves cause high pressure trips, but the units will work in cooling and not heating. if a reversing valve wasn't working properly, they usually stick in the mid position, so a high pressure trip wouldn't be a problem
    Here is how a sticking reversing valve in a hydroheat causes high pressure trips. The hot gas leaves the compressor, goes past the high press safety switch to the first reversing valve, called the diverting valve. This is the one that usually sticks and it usually sticks in the water heating position. If calling for water heating, the diverting valve sends the hot gas to the domestic water heating coil to heat water. In this mode the comp. runs at signifigantly higher pressure than normal air heating or cooling. Now, get a call for air heating or cooling while in water heating mode and when the diverting valve tries to switch over to air heating or cooling, it sticks in the water heating mode. As the water gets hotter than it is supposed to, because the hot gas is still going to the domestic water heating coil, the refrigerant pressure starts to reach critical high pressure and trips the safety. When the diverting valve works properly, it simply shifts the hot gas from the compressor to the second reversing valve and from the second valve on, you basically have a normal geothermal heat pump. I have found over the last 24 years of repairing these hydroheat units that many techs do not understand how the two reversing valves, the solenoid valves, and flowchecks work in these units to direct the refrigerant to where it is supposed to go for the various operations. Hope I did not bore you too much with the explanation.

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