Did a quick visual inspection of the blower and heat strips (I got 5 of them 24kw (5+5+5+5+4).
What can I (Mr. Homeowner) do to test if all the strips (and what appear to be switches [black plastic circular]) are working OK and if all of them are coming on. Or is this job better left to HVAC folks. I know my way around a volt/ohm meter. I just need guidance on what I should/should-not be looking for.
ALSO:
I have a air leak somewhere in the return trunk near the furnace. I get this suction action if I close the door for the furnace room. As I close the door the air velocity increases at the door's edge. Prompting me to suspect the return is sucking air nearby instead of the return vents.
I have seen a hand-held device that pumps smoke into the air. It is used to detect leaks and air currents. Can this thing be purchased at a RENO type store?
I have seen a hand-held device that pumps smoke into the air. It is used to detect leaks and air currents. Can this thing be purchased at a RENO type store?
Yea , that would be called a cigarette
What can I (Mr. Homeowner) do to test if all the strips (and what appear to be switches [black plastic circular]) are working OK and if all of them are coming on. Or is this job better left to HVAC folks. I know my way around a volt/ohm meter. I just need guidance on what I should/should-not be looking for.
Mr Homeowner should call a qualified tech to test anything in an electric furnace- there has got to be a qualified person between Reno and Trukee somewhere
Holy Crap man! I blow through quite a bit of things, except for electric frunaces. I've done lots. I remember the very first one I did. Welded my meter lead to the frunace.
Homeowner now. Land owner in the near future. At the local cemetary.
Just a comment. I plan to live quite a few more years. When I asked if I could test anything, it was with the power "OFF". I would imagine there ain't much except for maybe the continuity. I have opened it before (blower clean & oil). The house panel breaker turned off is the first item of business "always".
I would never dream of putting fingers, or anything for that matter, into that area with live juice. I have seen 120V make enough sparks to make me see the light.
As "Billva" said, 240V/100A is enough to make a beautiful barbecue. I do not intend for me being the main course.
My idea was to check the continuity on the banks to see if they are healthy. I assume that the simple fact that you get an OHM reading implies it is OK. My idea was to see what reading I should be reading.
I agree with all of you. The furnace "live" is no place for an amateur. Too many things could/would go wrong.
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