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  1. #1
    Furnace Unit: American Standard downflow gas fired (natural gas) "fan assisted combustion system" (model cdb080a945co)
    Installed in 2000
    History: When this house was being built in 2000, there was significant conflict between the local HVAC installer and the out of area building contractor. Every time I seek service or maintenance from the installer, he rags on the contractor and offers far less than satisfactory service (requiring repeat visits for the same problem). Now I'm facing a potentially broken furnace and I don't trust his diagnostics or to fix it right. He says it will cost(((( $X amount of dollars)))) to just come out and look at it.

    Past Problem: 1. Thermostat calls for heat. (Integrated furnace control red led light flashes fast (normal operation so far).)
    2. Control module verifies pressure switch contacts are open and limit switches are closed and the draft blower is energized. (Red led continues to flash fast.)
    3. Pressure switch contact close and ignitor warms up (I have visual confirmation that the ignitor is warming up.)
    4. The gas valve is supposed to be energized at this point. Instead, it shuts down (with a "click"), waits for a few seconds, and begins at step 1 again. (Red led continues to flash fast.)

    Current Problem: 1. Thermostat calls for heat. Process begins with normal clicks, etc. but then the red led indicates (with three flashes) a Pressure Switch Error. I've been trying to work with my HVAC installer to understand the situation before calling him out to fix it. He initially claimed that the board or ignitor needed replacing and then said the pressure switch needed replacing. I checked his story against posts on the internet and have not been able to get a clear verification of his story. I'm just not willing to have him come out, as he's done in the past, and charge me several times without fixing the problem.

    (No pricing please) please read http://hvac-talk.com/vbb/showthread.php?threadid=1241

    [Edited by fixit50 on 03-26-2005 at 09:03 PM]

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    3,400
    Do you have a question?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    PDX
    Posts
    4,917
    Why dont you just call another company to solve your issue, since you do not trust your current service contractor... Or are you just looking to get some free service from your existing contractor?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Northeastern Illinois
    Posts
    611
    This could be a number of problems. If your furnace is flashing 3 times it could be a blocked vent, a plugged drain, bad vac switch etc. The model # you gave isn't A.S. numbers. If it is a 80% it would be a ADD080 or ADC080 for a 90%. This may be one of the Standard units. These are a cheaper model than the above. They do have the same controls on most of them though.
    If it ain't broke don't fix it!!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    2,597
    sorry to tell you, but no one can diagnose a system failure over the internet.

    that is why you haven't been able to find a concrete answer.

    if you don't trust the installing company, then hire someone reputable, who is recommended by friends, family, etc...

    good luck

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Lancaster PA
    Posts
    68,331
    If i didn't trust the guys that i bought my car from, i wouldn't take it to them to fix it, i'd go some where else.

    Call another a/s dealer, or trane dealer(same thing).

    PS error, could be the switch, the inducer, a restricted flue, condensation, the board, manifold pressure too high.

    Thats just off the top of my bald head.
    You need a contractor to find the problem and correst it.

    Use the yellow pages, theres more then 1 contractor in your area.

    Contractor locator map

    How-to-apply-for-Professional

    How many times must one fix something before it is fixed?

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    MEDIA PA
    Posts
    1,383
    Where are you located. Try to get a "A/S Customer Care Dealer". I'm sure he can help.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Ft.Worth,Tx
    Posts
    4,584

    Unhappy

    http://www.amstd-comfort.com

    Look for another American Standard Or Trane dealer in your area.

    This is NOT a fix-it-yourself web-site.....
    "Everyday above ground, is a good day".
    "But everyday that you have made a difference in someones life, may insure you stay above ground a little longer".<aircooled>

  9. #9
    Thank you for the posts.
    I am not looking for the ability to do this fix myself. I'm trying to be smart before having this dealer come out to repair it. The last time he came out, it took three times (and three visit charges) to fix a simple leak in a gas fireplace coupling line. I can't even get clear answers from him on anticipated part costs (board, pressure switch, etc).

    oloenneker: I am not attempting to get free advice from this contractor. I want to be smart in knowing whether he is accurate before spending all kinds of money and getting nothing fixed (a problem expressed by several other customers in other posted subjects on this web site).

    aircooled53: I know this is not a fix it yourself site. I read the rules. I'm very willing to pay for service. I know when things are technical enough to hire a professional. I'm not interesting in "fixing" the furnace and blowing up my house because I did something wrong.

    All who said "just hire someone else": The closest other authorized American Standard/Trane dealer (A/S Customer Care or otherwise) is 30 miles away which means increased transportation costs. I'm trying to stay local because, especially in small communities, the locals need local support. I'm willing to work with this guy but the only way I can trust him is to be smart in dealing with him.

    Here is my question: The solutions for similar problems described on other web sites were mostly approximations of my situation and usually dealt with something being clogged. (Baseball in exhaust, condensation between pressure switch and draft blower compartment, vapor lock). Is the issue I described in my initial post one you have dealt with in the past? Is it typically an issue requiring "board" or pressure switch replacement? If the flue is clear, the lines are clear of condensation, and nothing is clogged, and the manifold pressure is fine, is piece by piece part replacement the next solution? In your experience, should I have him replace the board first or the pressure switch?

    Filters are clean.

    Dof3: Thanks for the guidance. The furnace does say "Standard" on the front rather than American Standard but all the paperwork and the placard says American Standard and has the model number I listed. Based on the short length of time it took this unit to break, I assumed it was a cheaper model.


    Thanks All.

  10. #10
    Originally posted by diy home owner1
    . The solutions for similar problems described on other web sites were mostly approximations of my situation and usually dealt with something being clogged. Is the issue I described in my initial post one you have dealt with in the past? Is it typically an issue requiring "board" or pressure switch replacement? If the flue is clear, the lines are clear of condensation, and nothing is clogged, and the manifold pressure is fine, is piece by piece part replacement the next solution? In your experience, should I have him replace the board first or the pressure switch?
    If you want to be smart about it this time then don't call someone who you don't trust and who has failed to correct the problem in the past. If you have to pay more to get someone who has a good reputation then do it. The 30 mile trip charge will be worth it in the end.

    You are trying to narrow the problem down to a couple of things, but as you just said, there are different solutions for similar problems. So without looking at it I can't narrow it down for you.

    It would not be smart to have the same guy come back and then tell him to start changing out parts that were the problem in OTHER situations. You could start changing out pressure swicths and boards and still have the same problem.

    Instead of spending your time researching what has gone wrong with other peoples furnaces(none of which will tell you what is wrong with your furnace). Start researching who is a good service company in your area.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    157
    It's too bad your serviceman doesn't feel obligated to fix the problem,maybe it's beyond his skills.If I have a customer that is concerned about costs,etc,I let them know if I don't fix it,they don't pay{so far so good}.At the very least I will get good expierence troubleshooting for next time.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2002
    Posts
    3,182
    It sounds like your local guy is more of a parts changer than a repairman. You have two options!

    1. Pay the local guy x amount for 4 or 5 trips until he guesses the correct part to replace.

    2. Pay another company x amount to actually troubleshoot it with tools and testers and fix the problem the first time.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    Vancouver Canada
    Posts
    996

    standard versus american standard

    Standard is same in all aspects except blower compartment is not insulated, no filter or rack included and no base in furnace. Generally speaking a 3 light flash is pressure switch fault. Could also be the board lying to you, first thing to check for is any blockages in the vent system. If the vent has been condensing at all, pull the vent hose off the inducer fan and see if the port is blocked, lot of times you get a rust build up in there and all it needs is a fine wire or drill bit to clean it out. Does your service guy have a magnahelix to test the vacumm on the system? No other way test a vacumm switch unless you change it for a new one. Not an expensive part anyway, so if your guy can't test the old one, try a new one, just don't throw away the old one in case the problem is not fixed.

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