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Thread: why on the primary side?
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03-25-2005, 07:33 PM #14
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i work on and install alot of trane and carrier systems and i to have had this same problem however i have been able to locate the problem. i usually find that there is a rubbout in the condensing unit that causes this either the low pressuce control or the rv def sensor all controls check it out
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03-26-2005, 11:36 AM #15
Jultza,
Me too, you are right. I stand corrected, thanks. VA is volt amps. I think I was heading to make a point about primary and secondary fuses and got sidetracked.
So a 240v-24v transformer with a .32 amp primary would give you a 3.2 amp secondary or about 80VA. and a 115v-24v transformer with the same primary capacity of .32 amps would give you about a 1.67 amp secondary or 40 VA.
[Edited by docholiday on 03-26-2005 at 11:38 AM]
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03-27-2005, 08:13 AM #16
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Yo, Doc
"If you short the secondary, which is the primary's load the primary side will fail as it is the weakest link. A 3 amp fuse on the secondary would be the weakest link if it were present. a .3 amp fuse on the primary would also be weaker than the primary winding. Lesson, learned? A fuse is alot cheaper than the transformer."
Yeah but where can I get a .3A fuse? Something they sell @ Radio Shack? I have enough trouble getting 3A fuses....SHEEESH!!!
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03-27-2005, 08:17 AM #17
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you can go to a gas station and puchase a 5 amp auto fuse and do the same thing
push come to shove you do what ya gotta do lol
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03-27-2005, 03:20 PM #18
I didnt say it was easy but yes Radio Shack would be one place. My point was that either location would save the transformer. The last post suggested a 5amp fuse. In this case it will be the last thing to fail and pretty much a waste of time, especially if you are dealing with a 40va 115-24v transformer which is only rated at 1.67amps.
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03-27-2005, 05:39 PM #19
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Those newer style automotive fuses work good with regular slip-on type crimp connectors. Put one of these fuses in series with the secondary.
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03-28-2005, 12:36 AM #20
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I ran into similar problem with a furnace board and a hot surface ignitor burning out for no obvious reasons.I was originally sent to the job site to do a fall service/cleaning.A couple of days passed and then the call-back came,{no heat}.After troubleshooting and finding nothing I checked the off/on switch at the ceiling servicing the furnace.The problem was that they were switching the neautral and not the hot.On my first visit I turned the switch to off thereby causing the 110 volt to back feed through the entire system.{Everything ran fine as long as the off/on switch wasn't used}.The fuse on the board never did get damaged but it burnt out the board and the H.S.I.Anyway after rewiring the off/on,and replacing the parts,everything was OK.
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03-28-2005, 07:05 AM #21
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most electronics supply houses have fuses, all elec supply houses can order some -- from 0.01a thru 8a at 120v or more. FYI a standard glass fuse >8a is rated 32 volts! so, use a ceramic fuse = ceramic encased, rather than glass.
HOSFELT electronics is a mail order house. but, they do not have all sizes.
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03-30-2005, 11:44 AM #22
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Re: Yo, Doc
http://www.digikey.comOriginally posted by bodhisatva
Yeah but where can I get a .3A fuse?
http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSea...S&Cat=32113391


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