Results 1 to 7 of 7
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    I live in MA, and am having an addition done. I have gas service and currently have a 12 year old Burnham 108btu burner to heat 1872 sq' of home through hot water baseboard, and a Bock 50gal hot water turbo-storr. The addition will be adding another 1178 sq', of which 450' will be by radiant, and the remainer by baseboard. I will also be finishing my basement, which will add another 1386 sq' for baseboard heat when finished.

    I have one proposal to replace existin Burnham with a Buderus G234 boiler, with the modulation unit. Another proposal to replace the Burnham with a Weil-McLain Ultra230,which has the modulation. Another proposal suggests keeping the existing Burnham, and adding another in the addition to handle that area. I have also been trying to do my homework on these boards and see others recommend the Munchkins, Dunkirks, and Peerless. I would appreciate any opinions on those brands and what you might think would be the best based upon my specs.

    Also, am having the Spacepack system installed, and a Comfortmaker AC unti was suggested. I have also heard of Armstrong, Carrier, trane, AMerican Standard. I guess I'm looking for around 11-12 SEER with scroll compressor. Any thoughts or suggestions?

    Thanks in advance for all replies.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2001
    Gold Coast of Connecticut
    do you feel the 108,000 boiler will not handle it. Does it run more that 50% of the time when cold out(below 0) It is possible that with priority zoning and a good heat load you may not need too much more. I would personally install one boiler for heat and hot water with an outdoor reset to save $$$$ when warmer. Number one is get a accurate load estimate done and No RULES of thumb!

    I personally like the add a boiler for new zone and hot water needs!.then you have 2 systems in case of a failure and it will probably cost less!
    Aire Serv of SW Connecticut- Gas heat, dual fuel and central a/c systems installed and serviced

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    don't waste your money on a higher seer condenser with the space pak air handler. you will not achieve anything close to the efficiency you choose.

    save some green and get a 10 seer.

    [Edited by billva on 03-23-2005 at 07:47 PM]

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2000
    Indianapolis, IN, USA
    With high velocity, in order to end up with 10 SEER, you have to buy a higher SEER outdoor unit. Buy a 10 SEER outdoor unit, you'll end up like 8 to maybe 9 SEER. You'll have to decide based on your electric rates. Personally I'd go that route if it isn't remotely possible to install a standard ducted system. Everything we've done we have found a way. For the money of the Space Pak air handler, you can buy a top line variable speed model and boost your SEER, not cut it.

    When you get into these super duper boilers, you get very complex and very pricey. Keep that sticker shock in mind as to whether there would be any gas savings over a simple, low priced 82-83% boiler.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    I'm all for modulating boilers, weather ultra or munchin.
    But keep your existing boiler, and get a second for the addition.
    The ultra is 15 years hx, and I beleive the munchin is 10 years on the hx.

    Your old boiler could still be going strong when the mod boiler needs replaced.

    You might want to go with the ultra 155, or the munchin equal, mod is nice for radiant heat, and can do regular BB also.

    As baldie said, if theres any way to go conventional a/c, do it.
    Contractor locator map


    How many times must one fix something before it is fixed?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Wow, so many replies in such a short time.

    Well, the reason for the SpacePak AC is that I have a four season sun-room off back of house which all other HVAC people said could not be done with conventional ducting, I would need a ductless minisplit, or continue with just a window unit. Also, with cathedral ceiling in part of addition being built, SpacePak guy was the only one that said he could run in from attic to cool that room. All other HVAC guys stated ductless mini was only solution. The Spacepak, using a proposed 5-ton condenser can do the entire house, minus a 728 sq' room above the garage being built. That will definitely need ductless mini.

    BaldLoonie - I didn't realize about the change in SEER when using high velocity.

    FreezeKing - hadn't thought of it, but I guess boiler does go on around 50% of the time in very cold temps. I currently have 3 zones, with a Taco zone relay setting the priority.

    How about the various boiler brands I mentioned. Any preferences? I'm a little hesitant with the Munchkin after reading you need a seperate Vision modulator that can only be installed by certified people. Seems like an obstacle.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Yea, any hack can get a munchin over the internet, but the Vision control is only sold by trained dealers. If you can't modulate the boiler, what's the point of spending the extra money for it? Maybe the Peerless Pinnacle, same Munchkin with the P125 control board will let a Tekmar boiler control modulate the gas valve.

    I would look at a ductless for the sun room since it has drastically different cooling load then the reast of the house. Then just get a regular split AC system to do the rest of the house.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
Comfortech Show Promo Image

Related Forums

Plumbing Talks | Contractor Magazine
Forums | Electrical Construction & Maintenance (EC&M) Magazine
Comfortech365 Virtual Event