Originally posted by chipper
House is about 1900 sq. ft. under air. The air handler is about 30-40 ft. from rooms that are warm. Tried the thing with the filter, no change. Will keep you posted as to the remedy.
I was wondering about if in fact termites eat insulation. If they are in my front walls and ate the insulation, that would make a difference in the cooling abilities. We have major termite problems in Florida. Anybody know if they eat insulation?
Keep ya posted
Check the other rooms ,the same way, it should increase air flow,since it didn't ,I'd guess you have large air duct leaks ,in the ducts to those rooms.
[Edited by dash on 03-17-2005 at 04:35 PM]
They just put in new ducts to these rooms with what they just did last week. No change.
Then I'd think there is a probelm (leak)in the section of duct from the air handler,to the point they tied in the new duct.
Or since removing the filter made no difference,maybe the coil,is blocked or flex is open or collapsed somewhere.
Did you check the other grilles for air flow,with and without the filter?
Where and what size is the filter??
I agree with Dash, sounds like an airflow problem. As a homeowner, you can go to the problematic rooms and feel the airflow coming out of the registers. Does it feel rather weak?
If the ductwork had a restriction on either supply or return, you'd likely be having frozen indoor coil problems and inadequate cooling throughout the entire house. But since you're only reporting trouble with just a few rooms, it leads me to think there's a problem in the supply duct between the supply plenum and the ducts that feed the problematic rooms.
If the a/c company that changed the ductwork did all their work downstream of where the problem might be (such as a damper that might be partly closed or insulation blocking feed to the ducts to the rooms in question) then there won't be any change no matter how good the ductwork is from that point forward. You could have commercial grade ductwork in there rated to flow proper cfm's to all registers and if it's not getting air from the supply plenum, what good is it?
Hindsight being 20/20, cases such as yours is why it is good for a thorough start-up be done on equipment once it is installed. All the flow rates of all the registers and all other readings get recorded so that if there's any change in the future, there's a reference point of how the system was performing normally.
Sounds to me like whoever's been doing the work to solve this problem is just guessing instead of investigating.
- Electricity makes refrigeration happen.
- Refrigeration makes the HVAC psychrometric process happen.
- HVAC pyschrometrics is what makes indoor human comfort happen...IF the ducts AND the building envelope cooperate.
A building is NOT beautiful unless it is also comfortable.
you said both rooms cooled the first year and you had no problem until the syste broke down. couple t stats anddidnt work. i will assume the air handler is in the crawl. they went down and replaced a couple transformers
thye fix the systen and then you have two rooms that are now getting cool. i think i have this right. a lot of co. in jersey are now installing a pleum only with 2,3,4or 5 10" or 12" flex ran over to arrow heads the up to 5 runs off that to the rooms. we call it the florida system. i dont use them nor do i like them at all but step aside for low bid and flex. possible the induct liner fell of in side the head that feeds these rooms. when they were in the cral to change the transformers they crushed the flex going to that head cutting down the air flow. flex has a joint in it that is not connected correctly. meaning some idiots take two ends and slip the flex into a nother and tape the hell out of it the flex comes unravled inside cutting down flo. flex connected to flex should have a medal collar in between. 30 fourty feet is a long run but you said it worked once for a whole season till someone worked on the system. when i go on a call i like to listen to the h.o. because you know how the system worked better then i and in most cases you can give me a idea where to start. did they change the blower speed when they changes the transformer by misstake lenox comes factorie set on high speed for cooling. they may have nocked of a wire and put the rong one on. not likely but can happen. how many joints are in the flex and how are those joint connected is where i would start. it might pay to get some one else to just check the system out for you so you know where you stand and some times a fresh mind can find something that was over looked.buster fans in the register i feel is not an answer to a problem just a quick fix and a way to shut someone up.
do it right the first time or keep going back
experience means nothing especially in this trade.
Have there been any modifications outside the home?
As in large trees removed or trimmed decreasing shade to that side of the home?
What type of attic ventilation do you have?Is it a fan powered vent?I have seen these fans go out and the temperature difference is quite noticable when they fail..
[Edited by hussmantech on 03-17-2005 at 09:43 PM]
Tell me more about possible blower problems and how it would affect the cooling. This is a Lennox HP26042-12P and CB30M-46-1P. The transformer that was replaced was for the thermostat, but it is in the air handler. (The original problem was that the low voltage tranformer to the thermostat kept tripping the breaker, and the system would shut off and not come back on . . . the board in the compressor seemed to fix this.)
Air handler is in the attic. Vents are ridge vents, no fans. No change in them either. I'm just wondering if the guy who was trying to fix our shut off problem last year altered something else to cause this problem. He changed out the thermostat twice, then tried different transformer, and then finally put a new board of sometype in the compressor, which seemed to do the trick. How could the blower speed be affected?
HAve the tech check the aux heat.
Put an amp probe on it to make sure its NOT coming on
when it shouldnt'
Have the tech check the stat wiring at stat, if aux heat control wire is being touched by the cooling wire... then you'll be bringing on a heater with the cooling unit...
this can cause the furthest rooms from the unit to not cool well.
Wiring on board in condensing unit should also be double checked.
STOP adding new stuff. If it worked the first year... then something has changed
Extend to others the grace that God has given you.
Has any one checked the refrigerant charge? If system capacity i slowly being reduced, Your higher load rooms will relize this 1st.
never say never
The board change most likely was a Defrost Board, that unit doesn't have anything else that I can think of in it.
Was the system charge adjusted during any of those calls?
Your service company coming will need to check the charge against the mfg requirements.
I read thru the entire 34 page service manual on this unit and see nothing that would indicate anything. Chances are the charge has changed, something changed since the last visit.
I am sure they'll find it when their out...
Let us know...
AllTemp Heating & Cooling
Yes, just had its yearly service. The work order says "checked freon". My large living room, DR and kitchen are all kind of joined together, and they are the closest to the handler. They cool very nicely, almost too cool out there. Lots of air movement. The weird thing that all worked great the first year installed (the ductwork was never replaced, and it worked well with the first system Carrier). The only thing that changed was that the system would shut off and not come back on. That's when they changed the thermostat twice, transformer in handler twice and then the board in the compressor, which is what seemed to remedy the problem. But we've had the warm front bedrooms since then. Yes there is sun on house, but no different than when the system cooled well the year before. It's puzzling!
What do you mean by higher charge rooms? The ones that are larger in size or take the brunt of the sun?