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01-04-2011, 10:11 AM #14
These kind of questions is why you need to bring in a professional. This is a relatively simple thing to do; however, the assumptions you have made and your attempts are all leading to likely burning up a transformer, actuator and possibly more. If space limitations are such then one could mount the transformer in an external j-box and pull wire, or better yet get an actuator that is rated at 120VAC and get rid of the transformer. If your fan is so oversized I would look at putting an external switch anyway just to open the damper so you don't have to run the fan just to cook something little. *Just realized downdraft, so no fan then draft will likely go the wrong way, but* Then one could interlock an end switch and.....bring in a professional.
We don't want a conversation such as:
your insurance agent "Well it seems the electrical in your kitchen ventilator caused the house fire and since it wasn't inspected/proof that it was professionally wired your insurance policy is null and void on the damages caused.."
You to your agent "Well I learned how to do this on the internet at HVAC-Talk and CM, ...told me how!"
Good luck to you and you might post your general location, who knows maybe one of us lives near you/knows someone that does.
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01-06-2011, 08:49 PM #15New Guest
- Join Date
- Jan 2011
Thanks for talking through this, still not sure exactly what I will do, but I have a few ideas and maybe the current sensing relay is something I'll look into. Don't worry I won't do anything based on assumptions, I do want to respect the no DIY policy here, so the bottom-line is that you guys think the 24v actuator can be damaged by under-powering it. Thanks again for the help.
01-06-2011, 09:23 PM #16Professional Member
- Join Date
- Sep 2007
Yo Dog, most guys (or gals) on this site would probably love to help engineer a solution for you but the variables are too vast to give responsible advice over a bulletin board and still feel comfortable that you will not light yourself up.
Having said that, the fact that the actuator motor only opens partially tells me that at 16v the motor does not have the torque to overcome the return spring. So I think that would eventually lead to the demise of the actuator motor. Without knowing how far "point A" is from "point B" its hard to say what the best way to do something would be.
My email is in my profile.
Best of luck.
01-17-2011, 11:41 AM #17New Guest
- Join Date
- Jan 2011
Thanks again. I've ordered a low-voltage current-sensing relay (the kind typ used for humidifiers) and will wire the power to the transformer on the primary feed. This will keep the solution on the 24v side. AS a side issue I love the outdoor blower/ventilator setup but it really surprises me that these systems don't integrate a damper... I know that homes can be a little too tight these days but an open 8" round duct from the kitchen to the outside isn't getting it in my (midwest) book.