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  1. #92
    cuttin lumber for the barrle? You need the start up for that eddy, ck c.o. cumbustion, air intake exhaust, temp rise and fall, you know the normal things, By the way we miss you when your not here..
    Maybe Boss or B-c can move this thread, it is getting long and out of the resi area,, should be in gen disc or sumpinnow.

  2. #93
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    in a house, Appomattox, Va.
    Posts
    3,251
    Startup-

    Definately check airflow, or nothing else is going to work right.

    Make sure the duct is tight,too. You'd be surprised at howe many people don't know to seal the bottom of duct.

    Superheat ,subcool,pressures, temp rise heat and cool, lineset sizing correct, orifice/txv matched to odu., gas pressure/oil pressures,clearance around equipment, installed by manuf. specs (like gas vent terminations on 90% furnaces), defrost and elec works on ht pumps, emergency heat works, fan on/auto, heat & cool modes work, 4-way works on ht pumps, drains work, float switches work, limits work, filters aren't being bypassed/ air leaks, all the registers are hooked up to ductwork, panning and blocking are complete for returns, wiring size correct for equipment, voltages OK, amperages OK, tstat level and hole behind it plugged, a/h level or sloped twoard drain outlet, secondary drain pan exists and sloped toward drain, drain supported well so won't sag over time, flex ducts supported and maybe do a tug test to make sure attached to collars well, duct and boots insulated, filters in system, registers open and close, dampers in duct operate, condensors have adequate clearences, roof does not drop water on condensors (heatpumps especially)


    That should keep you busy awhile.
    Col 3:23


    questions asked, answers received, ignorance abated

  3. #94

    pdavis6061980 hopefully this will help you..

    I cannot gaurentee this will help but here goes...

    1) Makesure the service valves are fully open on your suction and discharge lines. Assuming this system has been properly tested with nitro40 and vacuumed. Also make sure the Airhandler or Evap. coil has the proper piston in the liquid line. That can be a real pain in the ass if its under or oversized, then you have all kinds of system pressure issues.

    2) Check to see if the installers have put a filter in the airhandler. If not take down the size and install one, leave a spare by the system. that will be helpful for you or the next guy in the future.

    3) Install your gauges on the service valves.

    4) Close the disconnect. The system should power up and the pressures should regulate.

    5) Look at the name plate. This should tell you how much refrigerant you should have in the system. Now depending upon how long your runs are and fittings used on install you might have to make up for line loss and pressure drops.

    6) It should tell you in the manuel what the precharge is. Usually its good for a certain ft. of copper then its like 1lbs of refrigerant every 3 ft. Assuming you know what fittings give up for line loss ect.

    7) Set the refrigerant and temperature controls according to specs. from the designer. The control differential must be great enough to prevent short cycling.

    8) Check compressor oil level: above center of sight glass?

    Liquid line solenoid: on automatic setting?

    9) Check your superheat if your using a TEV valve.

    10) Check the running amperage and voltage of the motor. If your using a 3 phase check the variation between each legs.

    11) Fill out a log and record your operating conditions.

    Now if its a cooler day say 75 or 80.... simulate a hot day by rapping the condenser coils with a blanket or jacket to watch the pressures rise.. make sure the system runs good at high pressures... starve the system of air alittle.

    12) Run this system for 72 hours and monitor closely being on call.

    Remember monitor your suction and discharge pressures closely and check your superheat and subcooling to see if the system is running in fact. specs. Your usually safe between 12-15 on your superheat and 25-30 on your sub-cooling.

    Oh yeah if its a heat pump.. you want to make sure you test that too and emergency heat........ let the element heat up.. make sure everything works there.

    k im tired of typing..

    basically .. make sure your suction line is above 58lbs.. assuming your using r-22..."i hope your not workin with r-410a) soo it doesnt freeze up on you and cause a big leak.. ruin someones ceiling or brand new condo.. who knows i cant see the stuff.. i dont know what your workin with.. just .. good luck

  4. #95
    [ deleted by Boss

    - stalking and ridiculing other board members is not acceptable on this forum


    ]

    [Edited by Boss on 03-07-2005 at 10:00 PM]

  5. #96
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Derby City
    Posts
    3,958
    [ deleted by Boss

    - stalking and ridiculing other board members is not acceptable on this forum


    ]
    Everyone has a purpose in life..........even if it's to be a bad example.

    Seek first to understand, before seeking to be understood.

  6. #97
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    157

    Question

    Didnt read all threads but I have to agree with most I've been in the field for 17 years and if someone came to me wanting a job as a start up man on new const. I would probably hire him as a helper for new rough in. There is just so much to learn in this field and anyone that shows enterest in this line of work this day and time is an asset.It is getting sop hard to find workers for this industry I find myself wanting to go into the buisness for myself just doing service,currently I run a department in the company its a challenge last years sales for my dept.were in the 2.5 mill range keeping help to meet this years goal is going to be really hard so to some it up no he is not ready to take the bull by the horns but maybe with a little/lot of otjt he will be.

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