help in undersanding energy efficient issues - Page 5
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  1. #53
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Huntsville,AL
    Posts
    4,125
    again, humidity

    save $$$, let inside drift to 80F, if 96F+ outside

    read at BUILDINGSCIENCE.com about good house construction!


  2. #54
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    58

    chem-basee, thanks

    I have gone to BUILDINGSCIENCE.com and checked it out, some of the information is quite interesting and I am allways looking for more refference ...

    I spoke with our contractor today, he is going to talk to the HVAC guy and see if we can get more details regarding the design and equiptment... I'm sure we will get it all figured out..

  3. #55
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    191

    Hmm Dgree days

    DavivkI.
    Sorry I have been out for a while And misted a lot of your and others post on your problem.As a simple idea you could go up to the top of this page and hit the bulls eye.There you will find the Hvac-Cala program that is offered here for a free trial run.It is a pretty damm good load calc program that is relitively easy to use.You me and people like us have a bad case of the I JUST GOT TO KNOW thing.
    First off It will blow your mind.Because it lets you see with and play with some very powerful information about you heating and cooling needs.And you get to change all the what if to see if THAT would be a good idea or not.The one thing it will also give you is the heating and cooling days for your area.That the info you need to get the answer to the HOW MUCH that you have had such a hard time finding.
    I will tell you that the one thing that you can do that will save you a lot of money and increase your comfort level.Is to seal the living snot!!!! Out of the duct work.
    This means with mastic and the plastic mesh.The mesh looks alot like the stuff you see for the seams in wallboard.Do not use chases for any return air.Hard pipe it all.When you get done with the sealing part insulate the SNOTT!!!!Out of it.If they use flex ducting for anything than besure to use at least a R-8 insulation.From what I have read here they use a lot of R-4 or R-6.Why I don'tknow.As I tell all my customers"Insulation is your friend.It cost you one time and then pays you back forever!!!!".
    Good luck.One more thing even if you go with the lower seers.Wich I thing you will find to be the best bang for your buck.Get the V/S motors.THey are worth the money .They help eminsly(spelling)with your comfort.Dehumidification.
    And than you can use ths fans to filter the air twenty four seven very cheaply.Make sure you get at least the four inch filters and filter racks!
    41Gasman

  4. #56
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    58

    Thanks 41 Gasman

    Thanks, I did down load the trial version of the SW but have not had the time to run it yet, I'll have to give ita look. Also, Thanks for the info on the Insullation. I hope that I can sit dwn with our HVAC guy and have a good discussion about all this and yes, I am looking at the VS air handler.

    I did have a discussion with our contractor today as well, he thinks as I do that teh 13 Seer systems may be become more competitive once the EPA restriction goes in to effect. I'm still about 10 weeks from Rough in, so I have time to continue my discussions..

    Again, thanks for your input! Dave

  5. #57
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Niantic, Illinois
    Posts
    545
    The rough cost estimates were based on the heating and cooling hours off of the other thread. The dollar amounts of usage were per season. Like $300 cooling meant to run that unit for the entire a/c season would cost a grand total of $300 and I appreciate your lunch offer. Espeacialy since the only thing I can verify as accurate are the cooling numbers, and that's only if I have the right cooling hours. All of the calculations were made from an energy star cost calculator I have that breaks it all down into math equations. Just plug in the numbers and use the slide calcultor and there are the numbers, but it is intended for gas, and oil heat and straight a/c. That is where I used what I had to create a parameter and calculate the rough numbers I had based on the real numbers I had from the calculator.

  6. #58
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    58

    berad, thanks for your help,

    Well, thanks for your help, what it did do is use a set of control numbers and assumptions equally on each unit, and then with 10, 12 and 14 seer and it did give us an estimate of base line (10 seer) to the uper level of 14 seer.. that's enough information for me, What it did show is based on those numbers the difference from 10 to 14 seer was about 30% based on the same hours of opperation. It will be interesting to see if our HVAC guy is willing to do the same with what software he has and base it on our rooms and lay out. REading alot of these posts, and the various marketing info the Variable speed fans seem like a good idea, so, maybe I can come up with a nice mix of Seer and price and have a very comfortable house.

    So, if your in Nashville, you will have to let me know. Thanks again for your help and taking the time to work on this for us.

    DAve

  7. #59
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    58

    berad, one more thing.

    I just found a site that gives the gas heating days for the region, here is the site http://www.findarticles.com/p/articl...3/ai_103994964 from what it shows it is an average of about 447 Gas Home Customer-Weighted Heating Degree-Days Seems like this is for Gas vs. propane but could offer another look at the number of days? You mentioned you thought the numbers you had before were high, this may be a little closer to what you were looking for?

    DAve

  8. #60
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    58

    here is a real up to date heating days

    Just found this government site it has up to day heating days info.. check it out.

    http://www.eia.doe.gov/emeu/mer/pdf/pages/sec1_18.pdf

  9. #61
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    58

    Sat down with another contractor yesterday!

    yesterday I went down to another HVAC dealer in Nashville with a set of updated plans and was surprised at the outcome.. here is what we saw, in writting with all the calcs..

    The energy calcs based on our home were as follows
    Down Stairs about 2600sq ft = 5 ton (more like 4.7 ton)
    upstairs, closer to 3 ton vs the 2.5 ton first suggested.
    Studio 2.5 ton, possibley 2 ton depending on a few things.

    Now we sat there as the guy input all the details from our plans, room sizes, ceiling heights, windows and all the specs. We have lots and lots of windows, and the wall insulation is R11, so, it seems like the first 2 contractors were correct on size and maybe a little conservative?

    So, now I'm back to Equiptment and options. The estimate on energy savings from the 10 seer to 14 seer according to their calcs worked out to an average of about $400 per year pretty close to what you guys came up with on your estimates.

    I have asked this dealer to give us some quotes on various systems at different seer levels and options.. then, Im sure I'll be back with more questions. The guy installs alot of different systems including Trane, A-S, Lennox, Rudd, and Goodman and he had working models on all of them in his showroom. Of course, he is a big "Builders model" installing contractor and installs alot of goodman equiptment in those applications.

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