Lennox SLP98/XP21 installed. What a difference!
Had my new system installed this past Monday and Tuesday.
Replaced a 19 year old Rheem 90 Plus RBEG-070 and a Lumber Yard 2 ton 10 Seer A/C unit.
This system is unbelievably quiet, temps in the house are very even. The thing just sits at 35% and purrs along. I am locking out the heat pump during the day since I have On-Peak/Off-Peak electric. At 9pm I switch to the heat pump and even at outdoor temps of 26f it's keeping up without any issues.
The iComfort Touch stat is nice but needs to have some more features added. There isn't any indication of heating or cooling stage, airflow, blower speed etc. or whether the furnace or heat pump is running.
Also with as many utilities offering the on-peak/off-peak rates Lennox should provide a way to lock out the heat pump with a schedule.
The Pure-Air system works very well and already there is a noticable difference of less dust. The system is set to run a 300 CFM when not heating or cooling...
My installer is checking right now with Lennox tech support to see if by using the provision for a condensate pump lockout for the A/C if that will also lock out the heat pump. If so he's going to take my old 5-1-1 Honeywell Programmable thermostat and set it up to lock out the heat pump M-F 7a to 9p and allow to run all other hours as long as it's above the lockout temp we have set at 20f.
As promised, pictures. My guys did an excellent job, cleaned up everything as if they hadn't even been there!
Only Downside... The furnace room door doesn't fit so I'll have to cut it in half and make it a bi-fold. But I knew that going in!!
I like mine, too.
We're Lennox dealers in California and I just put an SLP 98 in my house and it rocks!
That looks like a good installation, too. It's nice to see somebody doing decent work. Most of the installs people post on here look terrible.
Don't know what you paid, but a radius throat would have been better on that return and left the heel side square, I would have a trap on the a/c condensate because you are blowing conditioned air down the drain.
I hope the gas valve is just out of sight on the pics you posted.
Not sure what a radius throat would look like.
I'll ask them about a trap for the AC.
In the bottom pic the yellow tag in the upper left corner is on the gas valve.
It would work better, but we all do it like that. Just that you have a very high dollar system that constitutes a well executed installation. Don't freak....it's fine, but you should have a trap and the 90 would have just been a real nice thing to see.
Actually after the Lennox package discount, Lennox Rebate, Tax Credit, and utility rebates I ended up paying closer to contractor grade price. Once in a lifetime opportunity I'm sure.
Still amazed at the difference in comfort level. It's really noticeable. Right now it's 26f and the heat pump is keeping up just fine. Even cycles off occasionally. With my off peak power rate this is saving me a ton. For 100,000 BTU's of heat the gas is $.92, off peak the HP is .41. However on peak it's 1.49 so I have to make sure I put the system back on Emer Heat in the morning. Like I stated earlier, it's a shame the iComfort won't let you set a HP lockout schedule by time.
Add trap on the coil drain line.
Coil condensate drain & furnace condensate should be piped separately- not tied together. Furnace condensate is corrosive & in some cities, can't drain to sewer. May require neutralizer installed in line.
I see no gas valve. Valve needs to be outside the cabinet if they stuck it in there. Also- union on gas goes after the valve, not before (if valve inside cabinet).
Not too crazy about the blocks under furnace but may be ok for your area.
I don't know if it has what you want, I'm becoming a new dealer, but kick the tires...
The yellow tag upper left of last picture is on gas valve, well ahead of the union.
Originally Posted by precision hvac
Condensate drain can go in my sewer since it's a septic system 5 miles from the nearest municipal sewer.
Floor gets damp sometimes in heavy rain, would rather have the blocks get wet instead of having the bottom of the furnace rust out.
For the record the "yellow thing" is a gas cock. The gas valve is on the inside of the furnace regulating the flow to the burners...
Sorry, just a stickler for terminology...especially if you send out a tech to replace a gas cock and he replaces a gas valve.
And yes, that drain, if not seperated, is going to cause problems.
I agree with Senior Tech, have the drains separated. The floor drain is right there so its not a big deal.
Install looks nice. We have 3 going in ths comming week so the people can get the Tax Credit.
The plastic trap that comes with the furnace may have a check valve inside. I say this if the general concern is the air pressure would be pushing the furnace condensate back into the furnace.
Slap a trap on the a/c coil. Did they leave you the installation instructions? If not request them, they are different than the operating manual directions.
Get all the air guys on here and they may say the transition is squat (short) to fit the air cleaner so abruptly. You should slip rubber pads under the furnace on top of the blocks. If they did not when installed the paint was scratch, the blocks may absorb some water or dampness and wick that moisture to the scratch on the bottom of the furnace and rust.