Blodgett Oven

[rantis]

I have multiple Blodgett convention DFG-100 ovens and the centrifugal switches inside the motor. Has anyone else had this problem? At $800 a pop and the motor still works fine, it is an expensive repair for such a small part.

[Dad]

I have multiple Blodgett convention DFG-100 ovens and the centrifugal switches inside the motor. Has anyone else had this problem? At $800 a pop and the motor still works fine, it is an expensive repair for such a small part.

If the problem is the cent s/w going bad/ is bad in the motor but the motor is fine then the quick answer is yes. Have had to replace many motors.

Issue is the cent s/w is a safety feature. You can jump it out but the burners will continue to heat with the doors open and warp the oven bottom on a gas unit. You can double up on the door switch to kill the gas but there is that old AGA stamp you must deal with if something goes wrong and you will be held liable.

Look around for a better price on that motor or take the motor to a motor shop for repair.

[rantis]

Thank you for your response. It is def the cent s/w. I just want to see if anyone had found a solution without compromising the safety. I am going to take it up my motor guy to see what he can do with it. I want to fix it right but do not want to throw away a prefectly good motor.

[Dad]

You could do it yourself but you risk motor damage if you aren't practiced at it. Your motor shop will know just what to do and it will be a fraction of the motor cost even with your labor.

Have fun with the fan cage and puller. If it won't come off use a torch and cold water. Heat the shaft end and cool it off. The two metals will expand and contract at different rates allowing you to pull the fan cage off without damage. If not... ouch, you will have to cut the shaft then the motor is no good. If you can get the motor and cage off as one piece (depending on how old your DFG's are) you can do this by removing the motor mounting flange then take the entire package to your motor shop they can repair it in tact with a little extra effort.

[hvacart]

Please check a company out of new jesey called FMP. They specialize in Rest parts. Franklin Machine Products. When you try to break the cage off the shaft try to use PB blaster first and let it set for a couple of minutes. The torch maybe necessary but I don't like work harding the shaft. Also protect the transfer of heat into the front bearing from the torch.

Artie

[maninblack]

I have personally gone through the motor shop option. It seems like they always fail again within 6 months. I would recommend an OEM replacement motor. I would also recommend buying the replacement motor from a CFESA service company. Here you can find the directory of companies http://www.cfesa.com/service_voting.htm

[hvacart]

I have dealt with Blodgett call and ask for their tech dept. Discuss the problem and find out if they know of some reason for the cent sw to be failing. Most manuf will help you once they know you service their eqpt.
Don't be suprised if they ask for some info to verify you are a service man. There is liability involved.

Artie H.

[Dad]

I have personally gone through the motor shop option. It seems like they always fail again within 6 months. I would recommend an OEM replacement motor. I would also recommend buying the replacement motor from a CFESA service company. Here you can find the directory of companies http://www.cfesa.com/service_voting.htm

Mark... I had the same experience until I found a good motor shop that would replace the darn bearings with the right ones. Remember the old Montague ovens and how hard the flange motors were to find? All you could get for years were Reman Motors.

[maninblack]

If I tell the motor shop to use a better bearing you think that will help? Most of the problems I've had with rebuilt motors seem to be more electrical than mechanical.

[Dad]

If I tell the motor shop to use a better bearing you think that will help? Most of the problems I've had with rebuilt motors seem to be more electrical than mechanical.

There is a standard bearing and a heat resistant bearing. Since the fan cage will heat up the shaft and the shaft to the bearings.. well, you get my point.

Junk bearings were the only reason I ever got a motor back.