Trane high kwh usage - Page 3
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  1. #27
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Posts
    6,071
    Originally posted by Carnak


    You're so polite
    Only because Reflex and I are friends.
    Hindsight is NOT a plan!

  2. #28
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Alabama
    Posts
    534
    I'd be happy to fix that leak for you, at no charge even cause all the trouble you've been through. Only problem is you're in TX and I'm not.I work for a Trane dealer and install heat pumps on a regular basis. From what I've read here, you're system is right, with the exception of the heat strips and freon leak. You really don't need more than 10KW strips with a heat pump, and that leak is gonna kill your power bill if it has'nt already. Sure wish I could help.
    "If you can't fix it, don't break it."

  3. #29
    Well, it's very high humidity here (70%), scattered showers, about 42, so the tech wanted to see about doing the tomorrow, and I agreed. I understand about the humidity and charging, turning into acid, etc. I spoke with a nice lady at Dallas Trane who I think was area service mgr (?), I don't think she was a FSR. She knew all the dealers in Dallas and gave me some recommendations. I went with the one that first popped into her head, as I figured that was a good sign. They (the service company) knew her name and I get the inpression that the tech was made aware that this lady recommended them and to not screw up.

    It's only supposed to be 10% humidity tomorrow, so we'll see how it goes. Stay tuned.

  4. #30
    Originally posted by duct dr
    I'd be happy to fix that leak for you, at no charge even cause all the trouble you've been through. Only problem is you're in TX and I'm not.I work for a Trane dealer and install heat pumps on a regular basis. From what I've read here, you're system is right, with the exception of the heat strips and freon leak. You really don't need more than 10KW strips with a heat pump, and that leak is gonna kill your power bill if it has'nt already. Sure wish I could help.
    Thanks, duct dr. It would only be the best of coincindence if I could find someone local here. Usually anyone who puts the effort into helping people on forums are usually (most of the time) pretty good at their work and life in genral, and that's the best recommendation of all.

  5. #31
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    39
    Dear sir,

    I hope you get this message before the repair. Once again, remove all old charge. PULL DEEP VACUUM AT LEAST 500 MICRONS. and weight in the BRAND NEW freon. You are good to go on the charge. High humidity out side has nothing to do with the service. I live in Southeast TX, which has more humidity than Seatle per year (I bet someone will beg the differ).

    Have fun

  6. #32
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    North Richland Hills, Texas
    Posts
    14,914
    Originally posted by stef
    High humidity out side has nothing to do with the service.
    We just had some rain here in the DFW area and water squishes up out of the ground when you walk on it. I wouldn't open up a R-410a system today.
    If more government is the answer, then it's a really stupid question.

  7. #33
    Originally posted by mark beiser
    Originally posted by stef
    High humidity out side has nothing to do with the service.
    We just had some rain here in the DFW area and water squishes up out of the ground when you walk on it. I wouldn't open up a R-410a system today.
    Mark is right - we've had a very wet year for north texas and the clay just can't hold any more water. Any rain at all and the ground turns to soup. Was nice yesterday, gray and chilly today. Hopefully it will be better tomorrow afternoon.

  8. #34
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    39

    quote:
    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Originally posted by stef
    High humidity out side has nothing to do with the service.
    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------


    We just had some rain here in the DFW area and water squishes up out of the ground when you walk on it. I wouldn't open up a R-410a system today.
    __________________________________________________ __

    If you are concern about it is fine.

    But are we pouring freon in the bucket then scope it in the system??????

    Even with 0 degrees outside or raining outside. We can still weight the exact amount of freon in the system, which is by the way the best method of charging the system. As long as your gauge is in the dry location.

    Have fun

  9. #35
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Dothan, Al
    Posts
    3,453

    Didn't change copper

    Would there not be a problem cause the installer did not change the copper lines between units. Went from r-22 to 410A, wouldn't you guys change copper lines??
    Have not dealt with 410A, just know higher pressures. Do you people who install these use the same copper lines that are used for R-22 ?? Soft-drawn rolled copper.

  10. #36
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    3,400

    Re: Didn't change copper

    Originally posted by bornriding
    Would there not be a problem cause the installer did not change the copper lines between units. Went from r-22 to 410A, wouldn't you guys change copper lines??
    Have not dealt with 410A, just know higher pressures. Do you people who install these use the same copper lines that are used for R-22 ?? Soft-drawn rolled copper.

    Yes, I would prefer new copper.
    Not because it isn't strong enough, but because it is a completely new system, except for the line set.
    Residual oil & contaminants would be my concern.
    Soft copper should be able to handle the pressures.
    I doubt a R-410a coil is much, if any, thicker than an R-22 coil.

    I suspect most linesets won't get changed, due to additional cost.

    Low bid wins again.

    Correct me if I am wrong.

  11. #37

    Re: Re: Didn't change copper

    Originally posted by bwal2
    Originally posted by bornriding
    Would there not be a problem cause the installer did not change the copper lines between units. Went from r-22 to 410A, wouldn't you guys change copper lines??
    Have not dealt with 410A, just know higher pressures. Do you people who install these use the same copper lines that are used for R-22 ?? Soft-drawn rolled copper.

    Yes, I would prefer new copper.
    Not because it isn't strong enough, but because it is a completely new system, except for the line set.
    Residual oil & contaminants would be my concern.
    Soft copper should be able to handle the pressures.
    I doubt a R-410a coil is much, if any, thicker than an R-22 coil.

    I suspect most linesets won't get changed, due to additional cost.

    Low bid wins again.

    Correct me if I am wrong.
    Well, the original installer was offered the option of replacing the entire line. He chose not to replace the line in the wall. I will tell the guy tomorrow that he has that option also. I don't mind paying if it will fix the problem !! Again, I ask the question from earlier, what are my options to replace the lineset? Can the new lineset be run on the outside of the brick wall with some kind of metal sheilding, or do I have to tear the sheetrock off the wall? I believe the line is inside a closet wall. I will do / or will have done, whatever it takes, even if I have to repair the gyp later. He's coming out at 2 pm, 12 hours from now. Any guidance?

  12. #38
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    3,400

    Re: Re: Re: Didn't change copper

    Originally posted by stonecipher

    Well, the original installer was offered the option of replacing the entire line. He chose not to replace the line in the wall. I will tell the guy tomorrow that he has that option also. I don't mind paying if it will fix the problem !! Again, I ask the question from earlier, what are my options to replace the lineset? Can the new lineset be run on the outside of the brick wall with some kind of metal sheilding, or do I have to tear the sheetrock off the wall? I believe the line is inside a closet wall. I will do / or will have done, whatever it takes, even if I have to repair the gyp later. He's coming out at 2 pm, 12 hours from now. Any guidance?

    Yes they can be re-routed, if need be.
    You are on the right track, but you don't want the lines replaced before they are proven to be defective.
    It would be unfortunate if the tech decided that's where the leak MUST be, since he can't find it anywhere else.

    And then, the REAL leak shows up, somewhere else (months later).

    Don't tear the wall out yet.
    Re-using the existing lineset was the easiest way.
    Easy beats hard, every time.

    If the installer had replaced the lines, it still wouldn't guarantee that you would have been leak-free.
    But it should have minimized the risk.

    Guidance? Let him do his job.

    I am in Tyler.
    I would ALMOST drive the two hours to watch this thing play out.

    Keep us posted.

    [Edited by bwal2 on 02-25-2005 at 08:29 AM]

  13. #39
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Posts
    3,157
    BWA12
    I had something really sarcastic to say and then I noticed that you posted this :

    doubt a R-410a coil is much, if any, thicker than an R-22 coil.

    so I will simply say that it is recomended that the coil also be changed due to the higher pressures associated with 410a

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