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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Columbia, Mo GO, TIGERS
    Posts
    893
    the horizontal installation had a big sag in the flue and furnace was out of level tilted away from the drain. exhaust fitting by furnace not glued. drain fittings not glued. no intake pipe, just a 2" hole in the cabinet to draw fuzzy attic air; unused hole for intake on nice vertical concentric way over on the other side of attic. furnace oversized.

    we levelled the furnace; pushed, pulled, braced the flue and got it to fire and run after we flushed 2ndary exchanger with nitrogen to get out excess water.

    the builder is still bound by his one year warranty. he asks can we fix it? Original installer folded up and gone. (there's a shocker.)

    No definitive word yet, but boss is informed Rheem says you CAN put their 90 percenter in the attic---permissible but not advisable was best guess late Friday afternoon after the smart guys had all gone home.

    So as it stands Monday we go back to pipe the intake, we heat-tape and insulate drains, insulate outside furnace cabinet and cross our fingers, I guess. Maybe we ought to plug in a trouble light, stuff it under and leave it turned on? Hah

    Thoughts, anyone? (Were I the cheese I would say we are changing out to 80%er, like it or don't. Yeah, I know, the green scrip w/ satanic Illuminist symbolism.)

    Oh, yeah, location middle of Missouri and it does get cold. Occasionally real cold. Building a conditioned-space room in the attic for furnace apparently not an option.

    (sorry, don't have model and ser. number, they're in other truck)

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Iowa
    Posts
    763
    I'd say deal the hand your dealt here..... get it level insulate the drains really well...insulate the exhaust pipe. and you should be ok.... In missouri I would think that would be enough. if in question on colder nights run unit with fan on to draw return air thru the unit all the time so it will help keep thawed out. In northern Iowa they do use lights in unit sometimes to help. low density heat tape on drains lines

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    368
    Double check your electrical code also. Here in Michigan the National Electric Code-2002 does not allow heat tape inside a dwelling unit anywhere according to our electrical inspectors. Heat tape is listed for exterior use only.
    Vern P: 2003 MBC,MRC,IFGC,IFC
    An HVAC-Talk Michigan Chapter Mechanical Inspector, Jurisdiction-Ann Arbor

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    New Hampshire
    Posts
    2,666
    Oh yeah, and don't forget to offer him a service contract at $79/ year.











































  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Grottoes VA
    Posts
    5,856
    Why would you want to run an intake pipe in the attic? Is the attic vented (soffit and ridge) this is all the fresh air that is needed. The only reason you need to run a intake vent is if there is not enough fresh air, but in an attic it is all fresh air.

    Karst means cave. So, I search for caves.

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