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Thread: Shell & Tube

  1. #1
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    Shell & Tube

    I have a customer with a process chiller that has a refrigerant leak in the evaporator shell & tube heat exchanger. It is a brass shell and the leak is from a crack around the end bell where the liquid line is soldered in. The manufacturer is no longer around, so I would like to repair it if possible. Has anyone done a repair like this and what did you use? I don't think silver solder would fill in the crack good enough to hold up. Does anyone have a good idea what I can use to fill a crack in the brass shell?

  2. #2
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    You can braze it, but if it's cracked it'll just crack on out and you'll be fixin' it again at somepoint in the future. Take it off and take it to a machine shop and see what they say. Maybe it's time for a new HX, or at least a new head on the one you have. I'm assuming from your explanation that the brass is actually cracked, and not the solder joint itself.

  3. #3
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    you can drop some 50 or 60% silver in there?

    you can lay it in and peen it!

    I have had real good luck with 60 flux coated rod, the orange one

    and use the paste also with the flux coated rod

    when it is hot and puddled up pound it in the crack with a ball peen hammer
    I WILL SELL WORK,GENERATE BUSINESS, GO GET NEW CUSTOMERS!
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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by supertek65 View Post
    you can drop some 50 or 60% silver in there?

    you can lay it in and peen it!

    I have had real good luck with 60 flux coated rod, the orange one

    and use the paste also with the flux coated rod

    when it is hot and puddled up pound it in the crack with a ball peen hammer
    Why would you hit it with a ball peen hammer?

  5. #5
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    because I am mad at it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!














    no just kidding!!

    iif you are filling a crack???

    not like filling a cup??

    this would actually be adhesive not cohesive??

    tapping with a ball peen hammer is also known as peening ! it is done while cooling down and helps it to keep from cracking/

    it is kind of an art?
    I do it all the time while welding cast iron using nickel rod and also while repairinf ss steel or brass!

    But now that you mention it?? if you are not experienced at peening, you might leave that part out???

    LOL! Frank

    Quote Originally Posted by y7turbo View Post
    Why would you hit it with a ball peen hammer?
    I WILL SELL WORK,GENERATE BUSINESS, GO GET NEW CUSTOMERS!
    YOU SHUT THE HELL UP AND QUIT RUNNING YOUR MOUTH!

  6. #6
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    pound it in the crack with your ballpeen? OMG!!! Just kidding. Hey maybe you could, drill out and run a new line or cut and put a coupling on the old line, hell I don't know, I'd have to see what you're working on.

  7. #7
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    you got me!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    that does sound a little dirty!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    LMFAMFAO!!





    Quote Originally Posted by socal13 View Post
    pound it in the crack with your ballpeen? OMG!!! Just kidding. Hey maybe you could, drill out and run a new line or cut and put a coupling on the old line, hell I don't know, I'd have to see what you're working on.
    I WILL SELL WORK,GENERATE BUSINESS, GO GET NEW CUSTOMERS!
    YOU SHUT THE HELL UP AND QUIT RUNNING YOUR MOUTH!

  8. #8
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    Just like welding cast iron If it cools to fast it will crack keep it warm for a slow cool down some times we pack cast iron in sand . Good luck

  9. #9
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    I have never thought of the sand?????????????

    could you explain a lil more??

    for example, I just repaired a bearing bracket for a 1300 hp motor

    the bearing bracket is like a huge steering wheel about 6 feet in diameter

    i welded the hub in the center that is about a foot in diameter


    what would i do??

    place the entire hub in sand???/ except where i am welding??






    Quote Originally Posted by Herb1025 View Post
    Just like welding cast iron If it cools to fast it will crack keep it warm for a slow cool down some times we pack cast iron in sand . Good luck
    I WILL SELL WORK,GENERATE BUSINESS, GO GET NEW CUSTOMERS!
    YOU SHUT THE HELL UP AND QUIT RUNNING YOUR MOUTH!

  10. #10
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    If I remember the casting has to be at 100 or 115 deg the sand just keep's the part from cooling to fast they do make thermo blankets . The sand is a lot less hard on the cash out lay The last large part that I repaired we used a controled heat to slow down the cooling Check on the web might be some better advice than what I supply.

  11. #11
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    thats cool! I get it

    thanks

    Frank













    Quote Originally Posted by Herb1025 View Post
    If I remember the casting has to be at 100 or 115 deg the sand just keep's the part from cooling to fast they do make thermo blankets . The sand is a lot less hard on the cash out lay The last large part that I repaired we used a controled heat to slow down the cooling Check on the web might be some better advice than what I supply.
    I WILL SELL WORK,GENERATE BUSINESS, GO GET NEW CUSTOMERS!
    YOU SHUT THE HELL UP AND QUIT RUNNING YOUR MOUTH!

  12. #12
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    Ohio
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    The Boss is going to have one of our Fitters look at the heat exchanger, they think it will be fixable.

  13. #13
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    Can you pull the leaking tube out and roll a new one in?? This would be the correct way... Re-tubing that is... When I was a kid working on low pressure we use to use 50/50 soft solder until it was re-tubed....
    “It takes courage to grow up and turn out to be who you really are.”

    - E.E. Cummings

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