New Heat Pump to Replace Old - Page 4
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  1. #40
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Office and warehouse in both Crystal River & New Port Richey ,FL
    Posts
    18,836
    ARS is not factory authorized and is usually more than most independent contractors.

    Try Caldeco or Nuccio,in Tampa,both are Factory authorized.

  2. #41
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Tampa, FL
    Posts
    35
    Originally posted by dash
    ARS is not factory authorized and is usually more than most independent contractors.

    Try Caldeco or Nuccio,in Tampa,both are Factory authorized.
    Thanks for the heads-up. I'll call them. ~rick

  3. #42
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    Zelienople, Pa
    Posts
    2,965
    Do them a favor and let them know price is your main influence...
    How tall are you Private???!!!!

  4. #43
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Tampa, FL
    Posts
    35
    Originally posted by BoltonNC
    Originally posted by rickintampa
    Originally posted by BoltonNC
    I still want to pay as little as possible to get as much as possible.

    Famous last words...

    I do a load calc on every house whether the HO wants one or not. It is insurance for me and my company that the job is being done correctly.
    If the homeowner wants a copy of the calculation, there is an up front charge.
    If they buy a system from me I give it to them for free.
    We do this because too many homeowners feel no remorse to take your information which has taken you hours to put together and "shop it around" to low ball installers...

    That's great. If a contractor wants to do a load calc at his expense, I don't care if he shares the results with me or not. Obviously, I'm not going to buy a system without a quote, so if you do a load calc and then quote me on a particular system, I'll pretty much know the results of the test. If your quote is too high, I'll shop elsewhere for a comparable system.~rick
    You may find a comparable system, but not a comarable install...
    Install is worth 100X more than the system.
    Good luck and I'm glad I'm not in your area for you to waste my time...
    Thanks; couldn't agree more. ~rick

  5. #44
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Tampa, FL
    Posts
    35
    Originally posted by travisfl
    Originally posted by rickintampa
    I want the load calc only to verify what I already feel is the right choice. If it comes back at 2.5 I will indeed ignore it as a flawed test. A bad test can happen even in the most controlled environment. Plus, logic tells me that a developer-installed, original system is likely to be either too small or barely adequate, rather than too large.
    A load calculation isn't a test, it is a mathematical process by which the heat gain (loss) of the area is determined, measured in BTU. You may not agree with the results or you may think they are flawed because they don't fit your mental model of the right answer, but facts are facts.

    Speaking of which, research shows that most homes have oversized air conditioners.

    http://www.eere.energy.gov/consumeri...heets/cb7.html

    Originally posted by rickintampa
    And now the house is 30% bigger than it was originally.
    And when you get the load calc done you'll know what you really need.

    Originally posted by rickintampa
    The electric company is coming tomorrow to do an energy audit and duct inspection. If they say the existing ducts are good, I'll take their word for it.
    Be sure you understand what they mean as "good". In Progress Energy's energy audit program they only check for leaks - they don't calculate or measure duct capacity.
    All points well noted; thanks. Since you bothered explaining that much, maybe you can tell me how a load test is done, insofar as exactly what information you have to collect about a particular home to do the calculations, and what info the home owner must provide. In other words, let's say that you're in a home to do the load calc, what info, measurements, etc. do you need? Can you kind of summarize the process? ~rick

  6. #45
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Tampa, FL
    Posts
    35

    PS

    One reason I ask is that a contractor just told me that the load calc is hard to do without a floor plan. True or false, in your opinion?

  7. #46
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    340

    Re: PS

    Originally posted by rickintampa
    ... a contractor just told me that the load calc is hard to do without a floor plan. True or false, in your opinion?
    Partly true. Having a 'to scale' floor plan would make it easier to calculate the room sizes and would reduce the hassle of performing a room-by-room heat gain (loss) calculation. However, since you aren't going to be changing your duct work it is practical to do a "whole house" load calculation. You'll still need the size of the foundation, the height and construction of the walls, the amount of insulation (foundation, attic, walls..), the types, sizes, and locations of windows and doors, and a few other things. It isn't as bad as it sounds.

    Click on the target on the top of this page for information on how to do your own load calculation.

  8. #47
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Tampa, FL
    Posts
    35

    PS

    Originally posted by travisfl
    Originally posted by rickintampa
    ... a contractor just told me that the load calc is hard to do without a floor plan. True or false, in your opinion?
    Partly true. Having a 'to scale' floor plan would make it easier to calculate the room sizes and would reduce the hassle of performing a room-by-room heat gain (loss) calculation. However, since you aren't going to be changing your duct work it is practical to do a "whole house" load calculation. You'll still need the size of the foundation, the height and construction of the walls, the amount of insulation (foundation, attic, walls..), the types, sizes, and locations of windows and doors, and a few other things. It isn't as bad as it sounds.

    Click on the target on the top of this page for information on how to do your own load calculation.
    Got it. Thanks again. ~rick

  9. #48
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    30

    Wink Heat [pump replace

    but ours here in SC will do a Manual J for you as part of the energy audit (no charge), you might ask if they will do the same for you.

    Wow, Swampfox, sure hope you are here in the Upstate and use Broad River cause I am in the midst of replacing my system also and could use something for free.

  10. #49
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Tampa, FL
    Posts
    35

    PS

    Hey Guys,

    I want to thank everyone who shared their advice, opinions, and comments, and helped me make what I believe was a very good choice. I got a Carrier 3 1/2-ton, 12 SEER, Puron heat pump with new electrical, new copper, new duct work, 10/10/2 years warranty. $3,990 installed. I was very happy with the professionalism of the company (Easy A/C in Tampa) and with the nice, neat installation. Thanks again to all! ~rick

  11. #50
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Missouri
    Posts
    7
    With roughly 1800 Square feet your looking at 3.5 ton. You might even want to go with 4 ton. You will need to change your duct also. You figure (roughly)500 square feet per ton. depending on how many windows, ceiling height and so on. but say it is 3.5 , your duct system was suited for a 2.5 , you won't have enough air flow, as far as the additions being added on and no air flow, air flow depends on how far and where they are located on the trunk line makes a difference also, there is booster fans you can get, but first thing is , how much return air do you have in this room if any ? for air to go in , it must have a way out. As far as brands.. Choose by warranty and not by comercials. there are a few companys that make parts for all air conditioners. there are 3 or 4 major compressor companys. they sell to all, you might get a Carrier and a Goodman and they have the same parts in them. it all depends on what color you want it to be totally honest. Look at the Warranty, Look at who you have installing it. Check some references. No matter what anyone tells you about brand, it is mostly thier opinion. most company's offer higher and lower equipment. Take Rheem, there is rudd , rheem, and weather king. Carrier also makes comfortmaker, Amana is owned by Goodman. Sears is whoever gives them the best bid ... and if you bought that many condensers from a company they'd slap your name on them just like they do SEARS . so check the contractor out first. ask for references, go check them out. see how they are installed and talk to the people that live there. They will give you thier honest answer without being biased.

  12. #51
    jasond1011 Guest

    fix your problem

    the old room addition probably has ducts tapped into the very end of a trunk that has virtually no air left by the time it gets to feed your new room. thats cause the builder used a cheap ac guy or a knucklehead to scab in the ductwork. the new ducts must be pulled all the way back to the main plenum then tied in. this way the increased load is taken from the whole house. and you have effectively increased the size of the whole duct system without replacing the whole duct system. now you are ready to si=ze up the load. the new room probably has a lot of exterior exposure and glass so load calcs are need but, and extra ton should do nicely . now buy yourself a nice 13 seer trane or american standard or carrier and enjoy . note carrier payne bryant all the same animal ,just dressed up different. all good run away from puron or 410a refrigerant as fast as you can get yoiur tennis shoes on. 22 is still the only way to go unless youd like to participate in the mfg field trials

  13. #52
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Office and warehouse in both Crystal River & New Port Richey ,FL
    Posts
    18,836
    jason,

    try http://www.410a.com

    Field trials were over years ago,Puron/R410a is the future,available today.

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