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  1. #27
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    Jan 2004
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    Lancaster PA
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    Dave, your right you can see the green paint, i think its the cartridge.

    I haven taken one apart recently so they could be the same now, but they weren't always.
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  2. #28
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    manitowoc wisconsin
    Posts
    4,943
    Good reading material on the subject: http://www.pmengineer.com/CDA/Articl...atures__Item/0,2732,78558,00.html
    Take your time & do it right!

  3. #29
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    manitowoc wisconsin
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    4,943
    sorry the comma's are keeping the link from working properly you will have to cut & paste.
    Take your time & do it right!

  4. #30
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    13
    Originally posted by condenseddave
    Originally posted by mlizotte
    My new service manger called me today after looking at my heat loss. He said the heat loss is ok. He said that since my problem zone has a supply temp of 190 and a return temp of 154, that I should upgrade to a TACO 0010 to move the water faster. He said the differential temp should be no more then 20 degrees like on my good upstairs zone. My problem zone has 36 degrees difference. Would that be a 0010-F3 cast iron model, the pump I have now is a Taco 007-F5.
    Thanks guys sounds like what you guys said?
    No, it doesn't sound anything like what we said:

    A little refresher on what I said:
    If the entire loop is, say, 100' (70' of element- again, a little too much, but only a little... and 30 or so feet of tubing,) you're at about 6' of head, at 4 GPM, which is well within the capacity of even a Taco 006.
    Of course, he has seen this house, and we have not.

    I would, though, from the info that you have provided, insist that this guy give you a guarantee in writing that the 0010 will solve your problem. Based on hat you wrote, it won't solve it, but, again, he has laid eyes on this and we have not.

    The 007 is sized right for the loop, based on what YOU posted here, and increasing the pump to a higher head pump won't do anything at all to remedy this problem, IMO. In fact, you could install a WS Darley gasoline drive fire pump on this, and not make more heat.
    Thanks again I had to reread this tread to understand a little better what you guys are saying. I re leveled my thermostat it was off a little.I'm a carpenter not a HAVC technician sorry
    No, the service manger did not come over,he looked at a copy of my heat loss and the temp. reading I gave him at 35 below. I told him it work ok above zero. I can't see him putting a guarantee in writing, but I'll ask, is that a common practice in this business? I asked his tech. to check the water temp. he said he would need to buy a special tool, out of pocket. I used a meat thermostat, is that close enough? No one seems to know what to do. They come in and out in 5 minutes and check the wall thermostat for level then order another free heat loss calculation ( for -23). When they see I have enough baseboards, they call me to say I have plenty of baseboards but to add another zone with more baseboards. Why would my heat lose say I have enough base boards, on this one zone and still not heat correctly?
    How much more oil will I burn when high limit set to 210 degrees instead of 180?
    My heat loss was calculated for -23, how should it heat when it get colder then that?
    How would I know if you had a bad pump? Someone above said it would only heat to 50 degrees? Is that the only way to tell?
    I don't know what this all means, (head) but you said I have 6. How do you get 6 feet of head, is that from the pump output? I see 20 gpm at 12 head on the TACO chart, see http://www.taco-hvac.com/uploads/Product_Chart/1.jpg
    Thanks

  5. #31
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    13
    ....

    [Edited by mlizotte on 02-03-2005 at 08:29 AM]

  6. #32
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    13

    Problem zone

    Hi Condenseddave, do you why would my heat lose say I have enough base boards, on this one zone and still not heat correctly?
    How much more oil will I burn when high limit set to 210 degrees instead of 180?
    My heat loss was calculated for -23, how should it heat when it get colder then that?
    How would I know if you had a bad pump? Someone above said it would only heat to 50 degrees? Is that the only way to tell? I heard if its hot to the touch but there both hot.
    I don't know what this all means, (head) but you said I have 6. How do you get 6 feet of head, is that from the pump output? I see 20 gpm at 12 head on the TACO chart, see http://www.taco-hvac.com/uploads/Product_Chart/1.jpg Can you explain it to me in laymens term.
    Thanks!

  7. #33
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    13
    bump

  8. #34
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Lancaster PA
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    At 12 foot of head that 007 will do about 1 gpm.

    Split the loop in half as others have said to do, and you'll get between 6 and 7 gpm, out of that 007.

    You have to look where the lines intersect, and then look directly below for the flow rate.
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  9. #35
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    13

    split loop

    Thanks, would I have to split the loop with a common return line that's larger like a 1" pipe? Also would I need to install two spickets after the last baseboard on each loop before the 1" return line? What are some reasons a split loop is better then two zones with there own pumps?

  10. #36
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Lancaster PA
    Posts
    67,913
    Yes you need a way to purge each loop.
    Yes, increase your pipe size on the return to 1" for the split. And make sure the supply is capable of handling the split also.
    Making it 2 zones is ok also.

    Splitting it to 2 loops is less expensive.
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