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  1. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    506
    probably sucking cold air from the crawl space or outside. No way a 8 inch return would even heat the house on a warm day

  2. #15
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Posts
    51
    [QUOTE]Originally posted by tinner73
    [B]HARD TO BELIEVE...

    1. Goodman equipment

    2. lots of flex

    3. BUTCHERED IN

    hmmmmm anybody see a pattern here?






    4. I wouldn't doubt that they would turn down the regulator so the unit would not trip on limit also.

    Or it is pulling in outside air somewhere and temp rise is fine. You are in a bind. You really need a competent professional who knows what they are doing look at it and you said there is a shortage.

  3. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    4
    Thanks for the input guys,

    I finaly found a contractor that seems to know whats going on. He agree'd and said that that return air vent needs to be MUCH larger. It should be more than the CFM of all the air going out. I helped him run new duct work I was so happy to get it in. We boxed in the trusses over about 6 feet and then ran new duct work, large rectangle back to the wall. From the wall, we used 2, 8" runs about 3 feet down to the cold air return. We used these because it saved having to make a new plenum and would work for that short of a run with 2 of them.

    It has not been very cold, so its hard to tell how well things are.

    It was a good experince, enjoyed learning from him. Have many cuts on my hands from the sheet metal

    He suggested changing the other duct work as well. That the plenum should fit into the duct work, not the duct work into the plenum. Right now the heat is coming out the both sides, and restricting the air flow.

    I'm thinking its somthing I can tackle alone, but maybe I'm being over confident? Or will leaving the current 8" work fine?

    Anyone know how much changing over to larger duct going out will help on a gas bill?

    Thanks for all the advice guys, its appricated

  4. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    4

    Oh also

    To the people worried about the cheapest bid or the details,

    I did not pay for any of the installation, the furnace or even the filter. When I negociated the terms of the sale the owner said he could include that. I'm assuming that he had a "hookup" or friend in the business, and could get it done really cheap.

    So yes, it probably was a very cheap bid. I do have the contact information of the installer though from the warantee information I requested after the install.

    I called him, he said it was the insulation. I could have taken it to court and waited the months for him to come up from Detroit and get it settled. All the while I'll be paying a in ecess of $300+ heat bill all winter.

    Or I can try to find a contractor to repair it, its a small town I live in with 2-3 local contractors. I only found one I liked and he's from a different county, older guy but was extreamly informative.

  5. #18
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Location
    Waterford Michigan
    Posts
    2,668
    He hired a hack any you got screwed. Next time call a pro to evaluate the system before you sign on the dotted line. The cheapest way to lower energy bills is adequate insulation.

  6. #19

    my opinion

    jaypee

    To make it short and simple.. That was the right size furnace. If the temp reaches no higher than 68. I agree with the contractor. You have another problem. I use a 75,000 for my 1200 house plus basement. Acually, I am running it at about 40,000 output. and still keeps up.

    The biggest mistake the amature furnace installer make is putting them on to big.

    I dont even have the time to tell you what things you have to consider when deciding what size furnace to install.

    Duct type and size
    IWC filter, A coil, windows, traffic

    Its not just pick what size you want.

    regards,
    Kelvin
    Inkster, Mi

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