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  1. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    First and utmost,before you waste any time,is to determine if your blower has sufficient CFM for the addition.If it was sized properly when installed you probably don't have enough air to go around.Remember cool air is hard to push upstairs and if the system was comfy you may just be robbing Peter to pay Paul.

  2. #15
    At this moment I cant get the information on the unit. But i know the sizes of the rooms and the windows and the exterior walls. The rooms (bedrooms) are 12x12. There are 4 of them. There is going to be a 3/4 bath on the same floor, no windows in the bath. The total heating/cooling space is close to 800-900 sq ft. Each bedroom has 3 windows. 2 of them are 33x47, the third is 33x57(to meet egress). All windows are low-e, argon filled, double pane windows. The exterior walls are 2X6 with R-19 insulation. The interior walls are 2X4 and will be insulated. I hope this will help any of the professionals on this site help me. Hey, if you got a plumbing question...ask me.

  3. #16
    Join Date
    May 2001
    Bennington, Vermont U.S.A.
    shaden, why don't you drop me an email with the rest of the information that I asked in my last post. I'll see if I can't size this up for you. Just click on the credentiials button below and it has my email address.

  4. #17
    Join Date
    May 2000
    Colorado flatland native

    Plumbing question.

    I hired a "Backhoe guy" to install a water line from 1 home to another in my yard 120 ft of sch 40 pvc. apart. Paid him to put in 1". He didn't have a 1" hammer drill bit so he reduced the pipe to " right before he went into the building because he did have a 1-1/8" bit. [all underground is still 1"] He says it should flow just like a 1" pipe, I say he's an idiot and because of the " reducer after the first building, I only have the equivalent of a " pipe with less friction loss since it's piped in 1" after that [until the next reducer before it goes into the next building]. I can barely run a hose from this setup. How much less volume of water do I get from this set-up than if he'd have put in 1" like I asked for?
    My doctor gave me six months to live, but when I couldn't pay the bill he gave me six months more.
    Walter Matthau

  5. #18
    The guy is an idiot. Restricting the flow is like a a spray nozzle on a hose. The more you pull the trigger the more water comes out because of the bigger opening...the less you pull the trigger, the less water. A 3/4" inch pipe has an area of .4415 square inches. A 1" pipe has an area of .785 square inches. Almost double. Length of the run and the supply pressure will also determine pressure drop. Hope this answered your question.

  6. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    chicago suburbs
    i love seeing tradesman help each other out. i'm getting all misty-eyed...........who's got a tissue?

  7. #20
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Originally posted by paddyhvac
    Its been my experiance that putting a second system or zoning your current system would serve you better in the long run
    If you don't follow this advise the upstairs will most likely heat but you will have problems with cooling. The problem you will have is you need more airflow upstairs for cooling and less for heat. Unless you have someway to make sure the needed air is going upstairs(zoning) it won't. If you don't have a good plan you are wasting your money and time and will find when you get done there is hardly any air coming out of the upstairs ducts.

  8. #21
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Here's where to start. It's the best load/loss calculator out.

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