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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Williamsburg, VA
    Posts
    386
    This is part of a Trane XE800 that was installed in 1990. The outdoor unit has since failed and I'm currently replacing the whole system with a Trane XL14i setup. Since I'm ignorant when it comes to heat pumps and installing them, I was curious to find out if this was a good installation. Check out the photos here. Click on a photo to enlarge.

    http://homepage.mac.com/kcrossley/PhotoAlbum26.html

    By the way, it looks fine to me.

    Thanks,
    Kelly

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    1,308
    Hey Kelly,

    From a technical perspective, without putting on guages, meter an other measuring devices, I'd say you are on the right track. I, however, and a big fan of installing refrigeration lines with ACR hard drawn and fittings. (You'd never install a walk in freezer or Kitchen cooler with line sets) But for the most part... I don't see any code infractions. But also too... I'm a bit of a stickler for linear neatness... all lines... electrical, refrigeration, natural gas lines or whatever... HAS TO BE AS CLOSE TO PERFECT AS YOU CAN GET IT. It's not rocket science... I give my customer atleast an hour of my time on a day long installation for free, to make the lines perfect.

    Then I can truely substantiate the additional cost in the quote.
    Teach the apprentices right... and learn from their questions and ideas.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    1,308
    Jeez Kelly, I'm being a lame-ass...

    The work in the pics you sent are nice work! If you did this... good work.
    Teach the apprentices right... and learn from their questions and ideas.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Posts
    3,708
    Hey ricm..its ok to be a ass,when it helps to better us all.
    Personally I'm used to being called a ass,I hear it from the wife all the time.

    I say the duct coming off the discharge of the airhandler
    should be rework with radius fitting and damper.

    Also maybe two wrenches on the liquid line would help as
    well.

    But it easy to make comment or sound like a ass,when we dont
    know how much the cost of the job was,nor the experience of
    the installer.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    1,172
    I concur with the other gentlemen on your install. I would install a tee in place of the 1st elbow on the main drain. On top of the T I would place a 3" length of pvc pipe with a cap. Do not glue the lenght of pipe to the T. This would be for access to clean the trap. Pip the overflow drain line to a deep pan or plastic box beside the air handler. If the drain overflows it will drain into the pan instead of all over the floor. You can also put a float switch in the pan so when the pan begins to fill up it will shut off the unit. I did this at my dads house and it saved his ceiling three times already.
    Saddle Up!

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2000
    Location
    Indianapolis, IN, USA
    Posts
    34,473
    I only see the old unit, that what you want us to comment on?

    Bare romex coming into unit, bricks under return box, no collar on return at wall, lots of foil tape...

    For the emergency drain, instead of overflow pans, put a fitting with a float switch to shut off system with backup.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Williamsburg, VA
    Posts
    386
    Originally posted by ricm
    The work in the pics you sent are nice work! If you did this... good work.
    I did not do the install. It was done by the builder's contractor 15 years ago. As I said previously, I don't know anything about this stuff, so I was just curious as to whether this was a good installation or not. The new system will go in next week.

    Kelly

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Williamsburg, VA
    Posts
    386
    Originally posted by -80guru
    I concur with the other gentlemen on your install. I would install a tee in place of the 1st elbow on the main drain. On top of the T I would place a 3" length of pvc pipe with a cap. Do not glue the lenght of pipe to the T. This would be for access to clean the trap. Pip the overflow drain line to a deep pan or plastic box beside the air handler. If the drain overflows it will drain into the pan instead of all over the floor. You can also put a float switch in the pan so when the pan begins to fill up it will shut off the unit. I did this at my dads house and it saved his ceiling three times already.
    You wouldn't happen to have a web site link to a picture or diagram that illustrates what you're referring to?

    Kelly

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    Rochester, MN
    Posts
    5,305
    Did they say why the outdoor unit failed?


    it looks the dampers on both end of the supply duct are closed down half way.


  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Williamsburg, VA
    Posts
    386
    Originally posted by mayguy
    Did they say why the outdoor unit failed? It looks the dampers on both end of the supply duct are closed down half way.
    Compressor failed. Old age. HP is 15 years old. I think you may be referring to is the redirects. They can be adjusted to force air to the first or second floor. Currently they're set to force air mainly to the first floor. Heat rises you know.

    Kelly

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    1,172
    No I do not have a diagram or web site to refer to. It's pretty simple really. I will look into taking a picture and posting. It will be the first picture post I have done though and may take a little time.
    Saddle Up!

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Williamsburg, VA
    Posts
    386
    Originally posted by BaldLoonie
    Bare romex coming into unit, bricks under return box, no collar on return at wall, lots of foil tape...
    What do you normally use to support the return box?

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Washington,NJ
    Posts
    504
    Looks like a pretty nice install, except for the #2 sticker on the side of the unit, it should be changed to a #3, Rusty is all washed up!!!!

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