i've seen 2" hardboard used. they do sell insulated doors, that would be best but not cheap.
I want to insulate the inside of a wide (double) garage door at my Dad's house. It has a roll of glass in it but that is already cover with aluminum foil so visible is not an issue. What is best? I was thinking of using duct board and cutting it to fit in the different sections. How does that sound? Or is there something I could get at Lowes that would be better? Thanks in advance for all the great advice you provide on this web site.
P.S.: The door will still have to open and close.
i've seen 2" hardboard used. they do sell insulated doors, that would be best but not cheap.
FILL OUT YOUR PROFILE!!
how about the blue insulating foam
We used styrofoam on the door at the shop. You may have to have the spring adjusted to compensate for the extra weight.
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Thank you sline-dawg for the spring tip. I would not have thought of that.
Ductboard will be the most expensive and not right for the job. I'll go to Lowes and check out the r value and weight of what they have. Operator, I'm not sure what blue insulating foam is, but I'll ask. I want to use something that is hard like ductboard or styrofoam. Thanks all.
blue foam is a styrofoam, very small beads
I used ductboard on mine.
Now if i can find a way to insulate the floor.
If you try to fail, and succeed.
Which have you done ?
That will look like some puerto rican ghetto thingy.
Go buy a new insulated door, they ain't that much.
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"And remember my sentimental friend......that a heart is not judged by how much you love, but by how much you are loved by others" - Wizard of Oz.
A little off the subject but ...
I called the people that sell the bubble wrap and they are telling me that the OSB roof decking with the silver radient barrier is not perferated. Therefore it will trap moisture in the OSB wood and rot it out prematurely
Also metal roofs & garage doors are only about 50% reflective so the foil is still needed in that application.
"And remember my sentimental friend......that a heart is not judged by how much you love, but by how much you are loved by others" - Wizard of Oz.
i had my 16' garage door (insulated) replaced last year at a cost of $850.
FILL OUT YOUR PROFILE!!
That's what I mean..........holmes.Originally posted by tinner73
i had my 16' garage door (insulated) replaced last year at a cost of $850.
Hey cockroach, don't bug me! ©
and spray it on. I'd use blue foam too. Much denser [stronger] than white.
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I bought sheets of styrofoam for the doors, and I placed old carpet (and the padding) on the floor...it stays pretty warm in there.Now if i can find a way to insulate the floor. [/B]
Radiant tubing and a 2" slab over the existing floor. It's what I want to do.Originally posted by Toolpusher
I used ductboard on mine.
Now if i can find a way to insulate the floor.
...Ron
I apologize for bump the old topic, but I have some interesting observations that I would like to share, maybe this will help someone in the future because once I was on the lookout for useful advice.This is the way to go. New garage door that is insulated and airtight. The make very good aluminum doors that are insulated as well. No way to ever get a sh***y door as airtight - I've tried and failed.
I have a sh***y door that came with a small amount of white styfoam insulation and while I should have replaced it because that would have been much easier I've spent way to much time insulating it - but it is kind of fun. Over the top of the oem vinyl backed styrofoam I added 1/2 of reflective foam cut to size and glued in with insulation glue. I taped it as best I could but because of moisture building up at the seams not all of the tape has held - still it does create a seal albeit imperfect. I used rubber seals with glue backing between all the sections - they are easy to install with the door halfway open and they make a huge difference.
Lastly I am currently putting reflective fiberglass over the top of it all to give it a chance at meeting firecode and to cover the seams. It is not airtight at the edges of course but the glass lays down pretty good and I'll add some expansion insulation to tighten it up the best I can. I'm using self taping sheet metal screws with big rubber washers on them plus tape to make sure I don't have a problem with this stuff falling off. It is r6.7 when properly installed so I assume I'll grab at least a portion of that on top of the foamboard on top of the styrofoam + walls blown full of cellulose + attic insulated to between r-30 and r-40 depending on the spot = pretty darn warm in my attached garage even without running the heater.