I've always used the light coat of oil on the gaskets as this is the way I was taught and have had no problems, so I would agree with the nothing goes on a valve plate but the gaskets, plate and bolts....but I'd have to add the oil to that list.
The torquing down should be done with a good torque wrench and done according to the book. I have to admit that I rarely bother to get out the T-Wrench for something like a K-Body's service valve bolts, but I do for the bigger stuff and always for head bolts.
I was at a Hoshizaki ice machine seminar a while back where the speaker emphasized the need for proper torque on a nut for a flaker. He asked how many guys had a torque wrench in their truck and out of over a hundred techs about three raised their hands (including me )....... and these were for the most part all refrigeration guys.
Kinda sad, isn't it?
ANY SEALANT IS BAD NEWS
use system oil or Supco 88 oil to coat, that's it !!!!
the properly torque.
a leaking gasket, especially cyl head, usually
means high pressure caused the leak (slug)
Make sure that the gaskets aren't older than you are. Once compressed fiber gaskets dry out they are very hard to seal. Soaking them in some system oil might help bring them back to life. A good way to tell is if you try and bend them slightly and they feel like they are going to snap they are probably pretty dry.
As for antiseize, if you are going to use it on bolts reduce your torque 45%. If your not using a torque wrench just pull half as hard on the wrench.
If you don't have the time to do it right the first time, when will you have the time to do it over?
I have been using Nylog as a gasket and thread sealant for years. It is refrigeration oil that is extremely sticky. Never had a gasket leak or become brittle using that product.