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  1. #14
    Join Date
    May 2000
    Location
    Rochester, NY, USA
    Posts
    14,512
    Quote Originally Posted by dc-v tech View Post
    28A needing a 30A breaker for Condensing unit, and 2.7A needing a 15A breaker for Air Handler.
    uuuum, that would work at my Camp in the Adirondacks. It's off grid, but the generator could handle that for a few hours, to cool the place down.
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  2. #15
    I am looking at installing a Mitsubishi Zuba Central, living in Southwest New Brunswick. What type of heating system do you have central air or hydronic?

  3. #16
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    The very humid south
    Posts
    737
    [QUOTE=dc-v tech;8126321] The heat pump should be able to carry 100% load without the electric backup heater ever firing.



    Did you calculate the balance point to make that determination?

  4. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Claremont Ca
    Posts
    58
    looks ok.. would of put strut on the wall an cush clamps on lineset an would of ran emt for electrical.. maybe even clad lineset .. just my two cents..

  5. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    279
    Quote Originally Posted by dc-v tech View Post
    This is the Canadian Zuba Central Air-to-Air heat pump made by Mitsubishi Electric. Its based off the same technology as City Multi, and can heat with COPs over 1.0 at -30C (-22F). The design day for the area of the install is -18C (0F), and the unit is supposed to have a COP over 1.8 at that temp.

    This install is a small cottage, the existing heating source was electric baseboard heaters and this was a full retro with full new metal. HL calc came out at 36,000 BTU, and the 3 ton Mitsubishi unit puts out 40,000 BTU in heating. The heat pump should be able to carry 100% load without the electric backup heater ever firing.

    All the bends were done with a tubing bender, there are 3 welds on the whole system.








    So how cold will this unit actually run down to and still produce heat?
    If you can not do it right, Why even do it at all?

  6. #19
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    279
    anyone know if this is available in the USA or just Canada?
    If you can not do it right, Why even do it at all?

  7. #20
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Seattle WA
    Posts
    1,245
    Did you use the PVFY air handler with this?
    America; first we fight for our freedom,
    then we make laws to take it away.

    -Alfred E Newman

  8. #21
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    279
    i wish there was some more info i looked on line but it was based in Canada. Might contact local hvac wholesale shop get some info i like the looks of these units.
    If you can not do it right, Why even do it at all?

  9. #22
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    In a boiler room
    Posts
    7,224
    Quote Originally Posted by luv2cruiserccl View Post
    i wish there was some more info i looked on line but it was based in Canada. Might contact local hvac wholesale shop get some info i like the looks of these units.
    I believe they are only available in Canada.

  10. #23
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Seattle WA
    Posts
    1,245
    Quote Originally Posted by luv2cruiserccl View Post
    i wish there was some more info i looked on line but it was based in Canada. Might contact local hvac wholesale shop get some info i like the looks of these units.
    Check out my other thread, I'm pretty sure this is the same thing or close enough.

    http://hvac-talk.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=1026511
    America; first we fight for our freedom,
    then we make laws to take it away.

    -Alfred E Newman

  11. #24
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Augusta, ME
    Posts
    76
    Yes they are available in the USA.

  12. #25
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    54
    Quote Originally Posted by luv2cruiserccl View Post
    So how cold will this unit actually run down to and still produce heat?
    This is technically a 'P' Series commercial Mitsubishi condensing unit. It is rated to operate down to -40C (-40F).

  13. #26
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    54
    [QUOTE=acsolutionsllc;12435611]
    Quote Originally Posted by dc-v tech View Post
    The heat pump should be able to carry 100% load without the electric backup heater ever firing.



    Did you calculate the balance point to make that determination?

    How do you mean? There is no need for a balance point calculation with a 1.8 heat pump COP vs. the 1.0 COP of electricity. 1.8>1.0.

    The heat loss matches the heat output of the unit. On a design day, the heat pump should run all day, and that is ideal. The electric heater is just a 100% capacity redundant heat source. I actually have the Em. Heat locked out through the Honeywell VisionPro thermostat to not fire unless the temperature drops below -15C (5F).

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