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Thread: Performance Filter Cabinet and Air Filter

  1. #1
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    Performance Filter Cabinet and Air Filter

    What are the advantages of using a media filter vs. a return filter in a Carrier system (assuming I have a Performance Infinity).

    The return filter is very easy to change, for the media filter I'd have to go up to the attic.. Also those cartridge filters look very expensive.

  2. #2
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    You'll have less particulates in the air,coil will stay clean keep energy costs low,plus you won't pay big bucks to pull and clean the coil.


    Coils today have lanced fins,and the fins are much closer together,translates into "dirt catcher". Better filters are a must.


    The replacements baren't that much ,when you consider the benefits, we even sell them on our website to keep the cost down for people to continue to use them.
    Last edited by dash; 09-29-2010 at 06:57 PM.

  3. #3
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    Thread Starter
    Is there a difference between filters when both show a Merv 11 rating?
    Are media filters better?
    I normally use 3M Micro Allergen Extra 1085 1" filters that have this specs:
    1-10 microns - 85%
    MERV 11
    pressure drop .19

    They work fine in my house that is not very "polluted". What's the advantage of going media filter, other than the convenience factor to replace the filter?

    If I go media filter do I still keep some sort of filter (obviously much lower Merv..) in the return?


    Quote Originally Posted by dash View Post
    You'll have less particulates in the ai,coil will stay clean keep energy costs low,plus you won't pay big bucks to pull and clean the coil.


    Coils today have lanced fins,and the fins are much closer together,translates into "dirt catcher". Better filters are a must.


    The replacements baren't that much ,when you consider the benefits, we even sell them on our website to keep the cost down for people to continue to use them.

  4. #4
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    OP, you need to look at the pressure drop at a clean state and a dirty state.

    I do not believe you're gonna be able to use a 1" MERV 11 in a residential cass unit.

    The static drop will be quite large.

  5. #5
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    Thread Starter
    Mmm then maybe the 3M filter I use is not Merv 11? It doesn't say on the filter, but I pulled the specs (See below) online..

    But again, if it doesn't work on a 1", why would Merv 11 work on a 4" media filter??


    Quote Originally Posted by Rhizzlebop View Post
    OP, you need to look at the pressure drop at a clean state and a dirty state.

    I do not believe you're gonna be able to use a 1" MERV 11 in a residential cass unit.

    The static drop will be quite large.

  6. #6
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    Less maintenance, more time, less money if you do the math.

  7. #7
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    3M dropped merv rating, over a dispute,from what I have heard.

    IMHO they are the worst flter to use,they "load" up fast and become very restrictive.

    The 4" filter as more media ,so they last longer,plus are less restrictive due to the extra media.

    Homeowners should have their static tested by a Pro,to find out how restrictive a filter they can use, without or with modifing the ducts.

  8. #8
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    Keep in mind the media filters do not need to be changed once a month in most cases like grill filters do.

    Media filters are more expensive but so is synthetic oil.
    If your driving a beat up old truck that you only need to get one more summer out of throw some cheap big box store oil in there and pray, if your new truck is your baby and you need it to last until you retire throw some synthetic in her and ride into the sunset.

    If your moving soon and want to save a few bucks media is not worth messing with, especially when it can change your static. If you are going to die in that house 40 years from now get it done right so that unit lasts, you breath better, and you dont have to climb up on that chair once a month.

  9. #9
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    Inside Air Handler Filter versus Return Filter

    I started using a Flanders Group 4 pleated filter inside my new trane 4TEE air handler.It is the least restrictive of the pleated Flanders filters. I was using the same filter in my return for the last 4 years, but wanted to play it safe and get as close to the coil as possible to avoid any dirt possibly getting into the return. Yes it is a little more of a hassle changing the filter in the garage, but overall I feel more comfortable not having to worry about my brand new coil prematurely getting dirty.

  10. #10
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    crayx4, the thicker the filter is, then the more material is in it. It allows the filter design to slow the particles down over a longer distance until they fall out of the airstream. This means the air space between filter fibers can be further apart thus reducing the restriction.

  11. #11
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    I was listening to a duct cleaning service guy talking to one of my customers while I was doing a routine PM in the attic. This cust. has April Aire media aircleaners sealed to the return of each airhanlder in the attic. This duct cleaner was trying to sell his highly restrictive return grille, non pleated washable filters. He told the cust. that our company told him wrong; he needed to used high desity filters in his return grille to stop the contaminants before they get into the airstream. I laughed to myself...
    The duct guy left and I was headed toward the geothemal condensers in the garage. He asked me about this filter grille theory. I explained it to him like this... You have high efficiency large sq. area 4" pleated low restriction filters sealed to the airhandlers already. You only need, if any, thin el'cheapo's in the return grilles. Why? Well, those other filters will cause high static pressure, and how sealed can he guarantee the return grille, ducting and collars are, and how much static can that blower and return flex deal with? With high return static, the unit is going to suck air from every crack and leak in the return from the grill to the unit. How clean, and conditioned is that air in your attic? Hmm, guess that duct cleaning guy was wrong huh?

  12. #12
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    The 4" filters have a larger surface area which will have a much lower static on the overall system and those 4" filters in a average home will need to be replaced at most 2 times a year or maybe once a year if you don't run your fan 24/7 like some HO's do such as myself to keep the air moving and filters, helps to keep the home comfortable. Using those 1" filters are alot more restrictive not to mention when they get loaded up with dust particles, & debris and when that happens you force the blower motor to work harder causing your electrical meter to spin alot more and in the end your going to buy more filters, pay more money to operate your furnace/air handler.

    Most 4" media cabinets are made to ensure a tight fit with the filters forcing most all the return air to go thru the filter not around then like in most 1" filter racks where a typical 1" filter is under sized in most cases allowing air to by pass the filter all together. With a 4" filter you can go to a higher merv filter vs those 1" or 2" filters providing you better filtration. The choice is yours.

  13. #13
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    Any difference between the 4" standard filters, and the 5" offered by some of the brands with their branded cabinets (Lennox, Trane, etc)?

  14. #14
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    In regards to 3M I love their tape, it has saved me many a nail in the wall.
    Their filters though.......... make me want to put a nail in my head.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by intence View Post
    Any difference between the 4" standard filters, and the 5" offered by some of the brands with their branded cabinets (Lennox, Trane, etc)?
    I think your standard 4" filters are more readily available than the 5" Filters maybe, but both should be available thru your local contractor and or Co that installed your equipment as well as on line. The 4" media is more apt to be on the shelves at your Big Box outlets such as Homedepot, Menards as I have yet to see a 5" filter on the shelves in these stores.

  16. #16
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    I have seen drywall dust get through a fiberglass filter and cause eqipment problems.
    Other than that I think "all" dirty coil problems are caused by no filter or filter so dirty all the air is going around it.

    I like the 4-5" filter on the air handler. change it once a year. have your contractor do it at tune-up. someone should be up there once a year in any case.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by fearlessfurnace View Post
    I have seen drywall dust get through a fiberglass filter and cause eqipment problems.
    Other than that I think "all" dirty coil problems are caused by no filter or filter so dirty all the air is going around it.

    I like the 4-5" filter on the air handler. change it once a year. have your contractor do it at tune-up. someone should be up there once a year in any case.
    If HO is doing any type of Drywall work it's probably best to shut the Airhandler/furnace down in the interm as you mentioned Drywall Dust is heavy and fine particle's that will bet into any blower motor regardless of the type of filter you might have, so the best way to avoid these problems is to just shut it down while working with the material and use a few space heater if heat is needed.

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