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Thread: True Freezer

  1. #1
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    True Freezer

    ANYONE know how to find the schematic diagram for a True freezer GDM-26F.I temporarily bypassed defrost to get unit to run(3 wire) New came as 2 wire so I tried to rig to work.Now I can't remember what goes where ,with all the wires.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by buck101 View Post
    ANYONE know how to find the schematic diagram for a True freezer GDM-26F.I temporarily bypassed defrost to get unit to run(3 wire) New came as 2 wire so I tried to rig to work.Now I can't remember what goes where ,with all the wires.
    That will never work


    Well maybe more work for me
    Last edited by itsiceman; 04-25-2008 at 12:24 AM.
    “If You Can Dodge A Wrench You Can Dodge A Ball”

  3. #3
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    you would need a service technician who understands a basic single phase freezer wire diagram off the top of his head.

  4. #4
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    I am making an assumption that the original part was a three wire fan delay/defrost termimation switch that mounts on the evaporator coil. The new part has two wires which is either a defrost heater limit or a fan delay. So if this is true you have recieved an incorrect replacement part. Most supply houses carry a three wire switch that will work.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by graybones View Post
    I am making an assumption that the original part was a three wire fan delay/defrost termimation switch that mounts on the evaporator coil. The new part has two wires which is either a defrost heater limit or a fan delay. So if this is true you have recieved an incorrect replacement part. Most supply houses carry a three wire switch that will work.
    I would be inclined to agree. Case Parts has OEM replacements with fast shipping if you need parts for almost any reach in box.
    I will enter His gates with thanksgiving in my heart.

  6. #6
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    question for anyone....true freezer 3 wire defrost terminal switch

    1 red(common).... 2 brown(terminal).....3 black to (evaporator fan)

    when i check for continuity between red and brown i get nothing using water with ice wait 3 minutes then test switch.
    when i check for continuity between red and black i get nothing using warm water wait a few minutes then test
    when i measure red and brown i get continuity...


    waht would be the best wait to check for a bad switch using a ohms... thanks guys

  7. #7
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    Ice water is not cold enough
    It's around 15° other than that reverse your test if you are looking for a closed switch.

  8. #8
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    thanks ice man for your response...question for you??? in your opinion (((how)) would you test a defrost switch using ohms when you have

    red as common....brown as terminal....black for evaporator fan

    what would be the most common practice to conduct test

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by the bugman View Post
    thanks ice man for your response...question for you??? in your opinion (((how)) would you test a defrost switch using ohms when you have

    red as common....brown as terminal....black for evaporator fan

    what would be the most common practice to conduct test
    I usually just stick it in the freezer for 10 minutes or so.

    Also you can take a pound of ice, add 1/2 cup of salt and 1/3 cup of water, mix it up and you will quickly get a solution at about +15°F to close the switch between common and fan.

    Remove the switch, let it warm up to about 50°F and it should close between common and terminate.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by icemeister View Post

    Also you can take a pound of ice, add 1/2 cup of salt and 1/3 cup of water, bottle of Tequila & triplesec with 1/2 bottle Margarita mix
    Fixed

  11. #11
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    I blast them with CO2 till the common and fan close then I used to measure the temp on a rise to the termination temp but they are usually good, bad or they are not making good contact with the coil.

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