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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    Posts
    1,504

    Hobart D/W problems

    Have a customer that has a small mom and pop bakery in an isolated area here.(everything here is isolated) Her LX30 H dishwasher is flashing a fault code of E5 once in a while. Then it won't let them run any dishes for an hour or 2. Pretty soon the thing will take off and run like champ for a few loads, until it flashes the fault code again and goes into lockdown. She asked me to take a look at it, and I gave it the once over. Everything seems to operate, except the heating for the reservoir in the bottom of the washer. Heating elements seem to heat OK, but I think the problem could be in the sensor(s). I have an owner's manual for it that I downloaded from Hobart. I can't get a service manual, and as a last resort, she called Hobart in the city. They want $430 to hit the door, and then hourly to repair it. I'm not a dishwasher tech, but I think with some printed matter and a little time, I could figure out what is causing this problem. Where do I go to get some tech help with this?
    One way to outthink people is to make them think you think. They'll think you're not really thinking what you're trying to get them to think you think...........

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Chicago land area 60181
    Posts
    103
    did you check the drain?
    Last edited by Litchmo; 08-31-2010 at 04:06 PM.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Over the river and through the woods
    Posts
    116
    You have come to the right place
    1) Make sure all three probes inside unit are clean (two in back lower right corner and longer probe next to sump heater element
    2) Is the drain hose kinked/internally decomposed? E5 indicates unit is not draining correctly after 3 attempts to drain.
    3) Is the drain body lever moving freely back and forth? This is located to the right of the motor underneath the unit, there is a lever attached to a DC solenoid that rocks back and forth to either wash or drain.
    4) Is the pump motor quitting on thermal overload causing the pump to stop working/draining at the end of a cycle? This would explain why the unit 'locks out' for an hour or two (Once the thermal overload cools off it starts working again) This is my hunch......
    Good luck!!! If you get it going send me some mom and pop baked goods!!!!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Winter Haven, FL
    Posts
    4,380
    When he says clean, make sure they dont have any scale on them. The lime in the water tends to stick to stainless steel pretty good. Scale will mess that whole machine up..

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Lake Worth, FL
    Posts
    111

    Cool

    sometimes the rear water probes ground out and the unit thinks it's not draining when it has already. The rear probe assembly would just need to be replaced. Simple job.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Chicago land area 60181
    Posts
    103
    Well what was the outcome did you fix it?

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    Posts
    1,504
    OK,,,,,,,went there today. Cleaned all the probes, checked for no binding of drain solenoid valve, Replaced the drain hose. One that was on there was a 5/8" red rubber automotive heater hose. Replaced with a spring reinforced washer drain hose. Ran unit thru 20 + cycles. At times during the wash cycle there would be an E5 flash on the readout, but it would only stay for a couple of seconds and then it would go back to showing the water temperature and continue the cycle. When the readout said Rinse, the temperature reading on the readout went to centigrade. And said it was 188 degrees. well, 188 degrees centigrade is awful damned hot for a dishwasher At the end of the rinse cycle the readout would go back to Fahrenheit, typically 140-145 degrees.,,,,, Anyhow after all these cycles, thats the only abnormal thing that I saw. Never quit once and seemed to be doing a good job of washing the utensils. Had a volt meter on the pump motor to verify if the thermal tripped, but it never did. Motor isn't drawing high amperage and doesn't seem to be running overly hot. I dunno. Told the lady that owns this bakery to keep an eye on it and call me when it fails, maybe I can race up there and witness first hand what is happening.
    One way to outthink people is to make them think you think. They'll think you're not really thinking what you're trying to get them to think you think...........

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Lake Worth, FL
    Posts
    111
    I'm voting for a loose wire connection, bad circuit board or bad dual sensor at the rear of the machine as the cause of your intermittant problem. I agree that sometimes you have to wait for the problem to get worse before you can pinpoint it. Also, if the vacuum breaker is leaking it gets on wires and can cause numerous intermittant problems.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Fishersville Va
    Posts
    31
    Make sure that "goo" has not got into the boards/wiring in the pull out tray.

    Have seen goo work itself back under the top surface and drip down

    Also assuming the operators keypad is tight against the stainless panel?

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    Posts
    1,504
    Vacuum Breaker? Aw cmon,,we're talking a hacked in dishwasher here. This thing was installed by her hubby,,,,,,,heater hose for a drain,,,,,,direct plumbed to the water line, very cobbled job.
    One way to outthink people is to make them think you think. They'll think you're not really thinking what you're trying to get them to think you think...........

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Fishersville Va
    Posts
    31
    Hobart built the units with a heater hose drain.

    Also the unit does use an air gap device on the rear.

    Drain issues like E5 can also come from the discharge height of the drain connection, the actual point where the "correct" heater hose attaches to the building drain. This distance must be 17" or lower. The drain line must be as "straight" as possible using the least amount of bends and/or 90 deg fittings.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Over the river and through the woods
    Posts
    116

    Talking

    If this unit was putting out 188 degrees centigrade, the vacuum breaker in the top left rear corner would be leaking and the booster tank would boil itself dry....water boils @100 degrees centigrade. However, 188 degrees Fahrenheit is the correct rinse temp for the unit. MwTechInc's post is correct, I have seen and serviced lots of these units. They come from the factory with the red hose. At this point I would look at your display board. Is it flickering? Is there corrosion/steam damage on the top of it where the pins mount? Check the wiring harness between the control board and the probes (Its the red and black wires that plug into the back of the control board) control board. Any issues there? If not then it may be the control board. E5 should only come on after three attempts to drain are made by the unit...Don't ya love a challenge!!

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    Posts
    1,504
    Ya know ten minutes with you guys on the computer is like 4 years of college. Drain is 35" tall. I'll cut that off. Drain hose was just stuck in the top of the drain riser pipe so was pinching off. Have checked all the connections and the sensors. Thanks so much for the help.
    One way to outthink people is to make them think you think. They'll think you're not really thinking what you're trying to get them to think you think...........

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