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Regarding the Lennox SLP98V, the company I work for also has installed some of these, and we've experienced trouble as well. We think we have found a solution to the "pressure switch" fault. It turns out that if the condensate trap was put on the left side, the header box won't drain properly. The solution is to either move the trap to the right side, or just jack up the right front of the furnace about 3/8" and sum it with some S-cleat so it drains better. Also, some of the traps shipped in the green bag had a Marrette get stuck in them, so they won't drain. Check this on your traps. Make sure the vent on the top of the trap sticks up a good 2" or more above the inlet from the collector box. We did this on one we were fighting with, and it seems to have solved it. I definitely remember the E225, 227, and the rest. We were sure it was venting at first, too, because we had 3" vent with 7 90s, and about a 35-foot straight run (the book says you can go 88 feet total equivalent length).
Hope this helps!
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Originally Posted by
airbyger
Any SLP98V furnace manafactured on or after 09.01.10 has a redesigned collector box which had corrected the issue. Modified collector boxes are available to Lennox dealers for previously manafactured units that may be experiencing draining issues. This is the real story.
Then why are you blaming improper installation in your other post? We have 2 in the past week that wouldn't work and yes they were installed according to the instructions. One we had to change the drain to the other side to get it to work, the other, a downflow, tech support had us replace the collector box, ventor motor, pressure switch and trap, pitch it more and just got another call today, still won't drain. These are not installation issues.
Local distributor has several sitting in the warehouse that have been returned.
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Yikes! I have a slp98/110K + Icomfort + 13ACX installed with a left hand drain. Been in about 1 month. Have not needed the furnace much yet so I dont think I have seen the drain issue (yet). The Icomfort just died though (keeps resetting all the time). The furnace is installed perfectly level. Im wondering if I'm just a good cold snap away from a drainage issue. Any way to test this issue. Maybe I could put it in high heat test mode (once I get a working IComfort again) and just let the furnace crank a while. Any thoughts? Also I read that Lennox will be upgrading the IComfort firmware to include a wireless access option. Anybody hear about this?
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Haven't had to personally diagnose this problem yet, so don't jump all over me if these suggestions have been attempted already. Possibly (for up or downflow only), you can tee together the left and right side drain ports at the bottom of the cold header, instead of using a plug on the side opposite the drain. Also, pitch the unit forward 1/2"(back to front), and don't tie into the evaporator drain, as these are both described in the install manual. Have any of you, having this issue, taken pressure port differential readings, if so, can you share your info as it discovered.
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Are these problems with the UHV or DFV or both?
Is the drain the problem or is the draft housing collecting water and restricting the draft motor wheel speed? I remember replacing the G51 or G32 (I think) draft assembly kit. It came with instructions to drill a drain port in the bottom of the housing, where there is a blank tube port. That drain was routed and teed with the cold header drain.
Last edited by mgenius33; 10-24-2010 at 04:09 PM.
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Originally Posted by
mgenius33
Are these problems with the UHV or DFV or both?
Is the drain the problem or is the draft housing collecting water and restricting the draft motor wheel speed? I remember replacing the G51 or G32 (I think) draft assembly kit. It came with instructions to drill a drain port in the bottom of the housing, where there is a blank tube port. That drain was routed and teed with the cold header drain.
The bulletin says it's for upflow left hand drains, but we had a downflow with a right hand drain that had a problem, which makes sense i guess because it's all reversed on the downflow. The bulletin says to use a threaded 90 out of the collector box, switch it to he other side if possible, and if that doesn't work, order a new collector box. Apparently the problem only occurs in high fire.
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Thanks for the reply. I'm curious and want to learn the proper correction to this problem. I hope all the Lennox guys keep relaying the info back here to the others. We have not yet had much need for heat here this season. I'm sure when we have a call it will be after hours, and the tech will be tired, and very frustrated. We have not yet received a bulletin on this. I haven't seen anything on Davenet either.
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Post Likes - 1 Likes, 0 Dislikes
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Originally Posted by
mgenius33
Thanks for the reply. I'm curious and want to learn the proper correction to this problem. I hope all the Lennox guys keep relaying the info back here to the others. We have not yet had much need for heat here this season. I'm sure when we have a call it will be after hours, and the tech will be tired, and very frustrated. We have not yet received a bulletin on this. I haven't seen anything on Davenet either.
Go to Products, Service and App notes, gas units, then scroll down to SLP98.
It'd be nice if we got some kind of notification of new bulletins when they come out. Would have made it a little easier to deal with the problems if we had some warning.
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Yep, there it is clear as day. I must have overlooked it. Thanks
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I had the SLP98 installed 3 weeks ago, and the furnace has not really been needed as yet (I have heat coming up for the downstairs neighbors) until now.
Last night my stat emailed me that I have a heating issue. Had the service guy come in and he found an error code of E228 (Unable to perform successful pressure switch calibration).
I found this post which describes the problem, and yes we have the condensate trap was put on the left side (can't put it on the right), and the unit is installed level.
The manufacture date on the unit is 8/2010, so before when the issue was resolved.
The service guy is going to shorten the section of PVC coming out of the left side drain, as currently the pipe runs 2" before the 90 degree downward turn.
Will this work? or is this a band aid as they can't jack up the right front side of the system post install?
Thanks in Advance for your advise.
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Here is the bulletin (H-10-1) attached.
AL
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Wow, this seems to be more of the Lennox tried and true "in depth" testing of any and all their units BEFORE they are sold to the public. Sorry, just had to throw that one out there. Tipping the furnace?? Really now. Did the customer agree to be the "field tester"?? I doubt it.
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Folks complain all the time about Rehhm/Ruud (R/R) not being current to the market with features... On the other hand... when R/R brings out a feature it is usually tested. Yeah, there was the DRUM furance... they all make mistakes. But in the 8 years i have installed them... they seem to just WORK.
Funny how bells and whistles tend to break... but basic solid equipment has more value.
GA-HVAC-Tech
Your comfort, Your way, Everyday!
GA's basic rules of home heating and AC upgrades:
*Installation is more important than the brand of equipment
*The duct system keeps the house comfortable; the equipment only heats and cools (and dehumidifies)
*The value of comfort, over the long term; leave economic choices behind!
Choose your contractor wisely!
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For those of you working on the SLP's, the latest issue is a fluttering noise from the burner compartment, the fix from tech support is to put a washer between the burner box front piece and the burner box, you can move the ground wire there since it already has the terminal on the end to act as a washer.
I guess this allows a little dilution air into the burner box and stops the noise. Happened on 3 out of 3 installations. At least it's consistent.
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Post Likes - 1 Likes, 0 Dislikes
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Originally Posted by
bmac
For those of you working on the SLP's, the latest issue is a fluttering noise from the burner compartment, the fix from tech support is to put a washer between the burner box front piece and the burner box, you can move the ground wire there since it already has the terminal on the end to act as a washer.
I guess this allows a little dilution air into the burner box and stops the noise. Happened on 3 out of 3 installations. At least it's consistent.
I was wondering about that noise.......so what's the point of mandating (in the instruction manual) that the system has to direct vented for both intake and exhaust? if they're now saying "it's OK to use some of the indoor air".......
The guys tried to lift the rear of the unit 3/8", but they could not budge it at all it was such a perfect fit. The shortened PVC pipe seems to be working (for now). The system is back up and running.
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I agree completely Lennox makes quality equipment but it seems like every week we find a new issue with the SLP line and Lennox comes up with a new fix after we have issues. Its like they took the tried and true components of the g71 put them in a different box and didnt even bother testing it because they had 2 years of g71s on the market. my main concern is with the g71 control board. I had one that I couldnt get the blower to run, I checked my voltage and freq comeing from the board and it looked good, so I replaced the motor module and that didnt work turned out we had a bad board but what do we do in 10 years and we start getting serious problems and lennox hasnt come up with a good way to troubleshoot their equipment. I guess we just use the shotgun approach all the while buying parts out of pocket because the warranty has expired.
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you will have problems if it hits 100% capacity but you might be able to aviod issues if you reduce the blower speed because the blower speed drives the firing rate. this seems to have resolved the drain problem for us but you get the reduced capacity problem.
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Brings up an interesting question I've had for a while.
I got 3 quotes for the job, and the 2 Lennox quotes had the same specs except for the fan. The winning company (who we've had service our HVAC for the last 6 - 8 years) specced an SLP98V12, while the other specced an SLP98V36. Our place is 2400 sq feet, and is the top of a 3 flat, so we get extra warmth from our neighbors.
Not sure exactly what the 3x differential in the fan actually means (3 times more powerful?), but I'm hoping that knowing our place for that long gave them the knowledge to spec the fan correctly, and that it won't be to weak for our house and always be running at high speed.
Hopefully by the time our furnaces hit 10 years, we'll have replaced every part for the better revised ones....
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I just got my SLP98 installed. Noticed that when the blower shuts down, and just before rolling to a stop, there is a groaning sound! Is this another Lennox "feature"?? If you've watched the first Star Wars, its just like the sound when Ben Kenobi shuts down the tractor beam holding the Millenium Falcon 
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Originally Posted by
klingon
I just got my SLP98 installed. Noticed that when the blower shuts down, and just before rolling to a stop, there is a groaning sound! Is this another Lennox "feature"?? If you've watched the first Star Wars, its just like the sound when Ben Kenobi shuts down the tractor beam holding the Millenium Falcon
Sounds like a normal stop for an ECM motor. Unless of course you can hear it on the other end of the house, or anywhere outside of the furnace room.
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