Draft ? with NG fp , are they drafty when not running ? - Page 2
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  1. #14
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    Apr 2008
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    Upstate New York
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    Hmm must be something wrong with my puter,lol

    I have stated and will once again, I am NOT will NOT and can NOT DIY. I am doing the framing ONLY,I think I have already stated that.

    That being said I did have a few questions about the venting. I would think if you guys are willing to say how important the venting is you would say WHY its so important.

    I know the co I am using for the install has done hundreds of these but maybe that doesnt mean anything. He did look at my flue lined chimney and said "no problem" what else should I ask him to do to be safe ??

    My ? about the 2 pipe or single pipe vent is just tha, a question. Just wondered if they can go with 2 pipes right off the unit or it has to be a single to the unit then 2 up the chimney.

    Again if there is something else you feel I should ask the installer to assure me the venting is safe , PLEASE say what it is instead of just stating the installer doesnt realize how important it is to follow the instructions.

    Not sure why you would think the installer doesnt realize this....

  2. #15
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Madison, WI
    Posts
    1,078
    You should educate yourself and read the install manual. If you have a questions about the venting you should ask the dealer installing it because they have been to your house and know the situation and how it will lay out.

  3. #16
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    S.E. Pa
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    6,128

    Exclamation By your own words you are DIY

    I think the part you don't seem to be understanding is, by doing the framing, you ARE doing it DIY. For ex.- how do you know to what dimensions to frame it? What are the clearances to combustibles? What are the requirements for noncombustible facing materials? THAT is why we keep referring you to the listed instructions and your installer. It is HE who should be reading these instructions and answering your questions.

    Now, having read through all this discussion, what other questions for your installer could you possibly have for this forum?

    Have a good day.

  4. #17
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    Apr 2008
    Location
    Upstate New York
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    well..im a carpenter by trade and am well able to read the framing instructions ie clearances etc so that part im good with. I am not however a fp expert and I have 3 different companys telling me three different things.

    1) company A says terminate thru wall with dv pipe 90 to exsisting chimney and go up the 8ft chimney with 2 aluminum liners, done

    2) company B says same as company A but use SS liners due to oil furnace being used in this chimney prior to this

    3) company C says use 4" ss liner up chimney for exhaust and take the air from the garage for combustion air. He says he doesnt like using two 3" liners up the chimney even though mfg says its ok because on a real cold day you may not have enough air and may get flame lift off and the fp would go out.

    Or go straight up thru roof with dv pipe ( dont wanna do that will look like crud on the front of the house also dont like the looks of the metal pipe)

    Or go up chimney with 4" ss exhaust and take combustion from the chimney and use a dv cap.


    Now with so many different ideas who should you go with

  5. #18
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Arlington, WA
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    13
    Quote Originally Posted by cvcman View Post
    The one we are looking at is a Valor 534 ILN


    I wish the vent frees were safer it would solve alot of my issues
    Why are vent free's not safe? I choose to not install them unless the customer understands all of the ins and outs. They are totally safe and no one has EVER died from a Properly operating Vent free product

  6. #19
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    Apr 2008
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    Upstate New York
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    Well maybe I shouldnt have said " not safe" rather not the best. First off all the by products of the burned gas is going into your lungs, right ?

    My house is fairly tight and we have humidity running around 50 in the winter so I really dont need the extra humidity either.

    That said is there a "better" vent free that im not aware of ? My wife has asthma now and I really dont wanna kill her, humm let me think on that , lol

  7. #20
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Arlington, WA
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    13
    OK, as an installer I will tell you that guy 3 should be tossed out. He clearly does not realize that the manufacturer of the f/p has had to have it certified with a particular size of pipe. He is deviating from manufacturers instructions and therefor if another tech from another company comes in to look at an issue you have may show cause of issue through uncertified venting. go with guy 1 or 2 The cost shouldnt be much different from aluminum to SS but SS is a safer long term route, Espcially if you are using LP because of the ability of sooting fast and thick. Generally 2 3" liners through the flue is fine. Read all of the info, With additional questions contact company 1 or 2.

  8. #21
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    Aug 2010
    Location
    Arlington, WA
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    Quote Originally Posted by cvcman View Post
    Well maybe I shouldnt have said " not safe" rather not the best. First off all the by products of the burned gas is going into your lungs, right ?

    My house is fairly tight and we have humidity running around 50 in the winter so I really dont need the extra humidity either.

    That said is there a "better" vent free that im not aware of ? My wife has asthma now and I really dont wanna kill her, humm let me think on that , lol
    You are correct, With a Vent free you will get moisture as well as additional noise from the pilot and burner are noticable. For a tight house with asthma I would not recommend it. The bi products of a good working VF are really just Carbon Dioxide and water vapor. Same as you get with the kitchen range. Some people may be sensitive to the VF though and that makes it a bad option. (those are the same people that say a B vent killed their bird and smells up the house)

  9. #22
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    Apr 2008
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    Upstate New York
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    Man I hate this, I wish they all told me the same thing then it would just be what unit I like best. It will not be LP rather NG. If they used aluminum how long would it tke before it rotted out ?? I mean 1 year or 10 yers ?

    I realize its hard to say but jut a rough idea. Would the ss be twice the cost ?
    It onl has to go up like 6ft because its a ranch and where they go into the chimney would be near the garage celiling. Givergas, have you done 2 pipe up the chimney installs like this before n cold regions ? If so any problems ?


    We really like the Valor unit and that would be installer #1

  10. #23
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    Jul 2010
    Location
    Caledonia,Ontario,Canada
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    Quote Originally Posted by givergasgiterho View Post
    (those are the same people that say a B vent killed their bird and smells up the house)
    HUH??? PLease explain.

  11. #24
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    Apr 2008
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    Upstate New York
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    I just got thinkin' bout this today, is there a way to go up the chimney with the dv pipe ? I assume there is room but could you make the connection with the 90 ?

  12. #25
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    May 2005
    Location
    Madison, WI
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    Sometimes you can, usually its tricky. The only time we even consider it is if the liner system is not approved for the fireplace the customer wants. If a liner is approved that's a much easier install.

  13. #26
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    Apr 2008
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    Upstate New York
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    this Valor 534 shows the double liner being used but it looks like its an insert not a free standing like we want, probably wouldnt matter though.

    I would like the dv up the chimney if possible

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