Draft ? with NG fp , are they drafty when not running ?

[cvcman]

Ok if we do the fp and bump into room with mantle cabinet and exit pipe straight out the bak of the unit then tap into chimney will there be a draft coming down the flue pipe coming inot the room ?

[khc95]

Not if the correct vent is used and sealed in the approved method.

[hearthman]

Make and model #? Makes a huge difference.

[cvcman]

The one we are looking at is a Valor 534 ILN

Also this uses I think a 6" od flue, is there any other units that use a smaller flue ?

I like the way this one doesnt have a pilot that has to stay on rather it has elect ignition. I also like its only 15" deep so if we bump into the room I dont need a huge cabinet.

I wish the vent frees were safer it would solve alot of my issues

[khc95]

Are you sure it s 6", as that seems a little big for a appliance with a input less than 30,000 btu

[cvcman]

i thought they said 6" it is a pipe within a pipe for the dv right ? What size would you think it would be ?

[khc95]

Direct Vent.....my bad....might even be 7" then. If it is dv why not run the vent pipe across the garage ceiling and out the side wall of the garage?? If your flue is to small.

[cvcman]

well te exsisting chimney is right there not being used. I would like a smaller dia pipe though so when I box it in where it coms out of the wall the box didnt have to be 10" square and it wouldnt stick out so far

[cvcman]

also when it goes up the flue its 2 pipes right ? Or does it just go to 2 pipes a the end ?

[hearthman]

double post

[hearthman]

All of your questions are answered in the listed instructions including mantel clearances, venting configurations, approved venting materials, etc.

I strongly suggest you hire an NFI Certified Technician to guide you in this installation since your questions indicate you still do not understand the manual. You cannot vary from the manual. You cannot rig the venting as you see fit. The mfr. has given you a myriad of excellent venting choices including co-lineal venting into an unused chimney flue. Please get professional assistance with your planning. For one, you will need a Level II inspection of that chimney before you can use it to vent this appliance. BTW, if you do use a co-lineal vent system, it must be full lengthfor both the intake and exhaust per the mfr. Read the manual.

[cvcman]

AAWWW dont be scared.... I am not planning to do the install the place im buying it is. They gave me 2 options, either bump into the room and run the pipe out the back then 90 into the flue lined chimney or bump into the wall but I can only go into the wall 4-1/2" because it cant protrude past the wall in the gargae or the door will hit it.

Given these 2 we feel we should bump into the room and have a mantel cabinet and go straight thru the walll with the flue and 90 into the chimney.

I see all the info in he manula I was just asking if ALL fp mfgs use this large ( 6-5/8" ) flue going dv. I know the bvent types have smaller pipe.

I am just asking out of curiousity. I know the pipe coming out of the unit is a pipe within a pipe but is it 2 seperate pipes going up the chimney ?

What is a level 2 inspection of the chimney ? The installer looked at it and said " yup no problem" ???

The only thing I have to do is any framing or wood work. They do the install and hook up the gas etc...

[HeyBob]

Going DIY? Possibly, to the O/P follow the advice given for your safety. I am not so sure you realize, nor does your installer realize the importance of following the venting instructions.

[cvcman]

Hmm must be something wrong with my puter,lol

I have stated and will once again, I am NOT will NOT and can NOT DIY. I am doing the framing ONLY,I think I have already stated that.

That being said I did have a few questions about the venting. I would think if you guys are willing to say how important the venting is you would say WHY its so important.

I know the co I am using for the install has done hundreds of these but maybe that doesnt mean anything. He did look at my flue lined chimney and said "no problem" what else should I ask him to do to be safe ??

My ? about the 2 pipe or single pipe vent is just tha, a question. Just wondered if they can go with 2 pipes right off the unit or it has to be a single to the unit then 2 up the chimney.

Again if there is something else you feel I should ask the installer to assure me the venting is safe , PLEASE say what it is instead of just stating the installer doesnt realize how important it is to follow the instructions.

Not sure why you would think the installer doesnt realize this....

[jtp10181]

You should educate yourself and read the install manual. If you have a questions about the venting you should ask the dealer installing it because they have been to your house and know the situation and how it will lay out.

[hearthman]

I think the part you don't seem to be understanding is, by doing the framing, you ARE doing it DIY. For ex.- how do you know to what dimensions to frame it? What are the clearances to combustibles? What are the requirements for noncombustible facing materials? THAT is why we keep referring you to the listed instructions and your installer. It is HE who should be reading these instructions and answering your questions.

Now, having read through all this discussion, what other questions for your installer could you possibly have for this forum?

Have a good day.

[cvcman]

well..im a carpenter by trade and am well able to read the framing instructions ie clearances etc so that part im good with. I am not however a fp expert and I have 3 different companys telling me three different things.

1) company A says terminate thru wall with dv pipe 90 to exsisting chimney and go up the 8ft chimney with 2 aluminum liners, done

2) company B says same as company A but use SS liners due to oil furnace being used in this chimney prior to this

3) company C says use 4" ss liner up chimney for exhaust and take the air from the garage for combustion air. He says he doesnt like using two 3" liners up the chimney even though mfg says its ok because on a real cold day you may not have enough air and may get flame lift off and the fp would go out.

Or go straight up thru roof with dv pipe ( dont wanna do that will look like crud on the front of the house also dont like the looks of the metal pipe)

Or go up chimney with 4" ss exhaust and take combustion from the chimney and use a dv cap.


Now with so many different ideas who should you go with

[givergasgiterho]

The one we are looking at is a Valor 534 ILN


I wish the vent frees were safer it would solve alot of my issues

Why are vent free's not safe? I choose to not install them unless the customer understands all of the ins and outs. They are totally safe and no one has EVER died from a Properly operating Vent free product

[cvcman]

Well maybe I shouldnt have said " not safe" rather not the best. First off all the by products of the burned gas is going into your lungs, right ?

My house is fairly tight and we have humidity running around 50 in the winter so I really dont need the extra humidity either.

That said is there a "better" vent free that im not aware of ? My wife has asthma now and I really dont wanna kill her, humm let me think on that , lol

[givergasgiterho]

OK, as an installer I will tell you that guy 3 should be tossed out. He clearly does not realize that the manufacturer of the f/p has had to have it certified with a particular size of pipe. He is deviating from manufacturers instructions and therefor if another tech from another company comes in to look at an issue you have may show cause of issue through uncertified venting. go with guy 1 or 2 The cost shouldnt be much different from aluminum to SS but SS is a safer long term route, Espcially if you are using LP because of the ability of sooting fast and thick. Generally 2 3" liners through the flue is fine. Read all of the info, With additional questions contact company 1 or 2.