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Thread: hermetic won't start
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09-18-2004, 03:34 AM #14Those are OK, but it seems like every time I've left one in place, it was a month to three months before I was replacing the pump.Originally posted by mardoman
I usually carry a Supco 3 in 1 hard start kit for small crap such as this. It comes with instructions.
Make sure compressor has cooled off for at least a couple of hours before you try it. If it starts & runs compressor you could leave it in place. If it does'nt start the compressor, you need to have an amp clamp to see what the current draw is compared to the LRA rating of the compressor.
Good luck,
Mardoman
Now, I have one of each size for getting myself home on time.
But go back and put on the right components, providing I don't have them with me...
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09-18-2004, 09:20 AM #15
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In reference to refrigeration, what is a peckerhead? Is this an actual manufacturers term or is this another made up term?
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09-18-2004, 09:25 AM #16
He would be referring to his embarassingly inadequate
Compressor.
It's not a technical term. He was calling it a peckerhead.
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09-20-2004, 12:52 PM #17
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Have you checked your thermostat?if its not working your beer cooler will not start jump it guy...I also agree with Dave change your current relay...In a refrigerature or a beer cooler when the unit does not start::::Check thermostat.over load protector,current relay,or the defrost timer if it has one..The defrost timer might be just plain open.....
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09-20-2004, 02:53 PM #18He should read my now famous thread "Sequence of 5".Originally posted by accumulator
Have you checked your thermostat?if its not working your beer cooler will not start jump it guy...I also agree with Dave change your current relay...In a refrigerature or a beer cooler when the unit does not start::::Check thermostat.over load protector,current relay,or the defrost timer if it has one..The defrost timer might be just plain open.....I pray not for an easy life but that I be a strong person.
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09-27-2004, 03:48 PM #19
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OHM readings c-s= 2 ohm, c-r= 12 ohm, s-r= 13 ohm .
Probably to late now, but verify these readings. c-r should be your lowest readings. With s-r being the highest. If these readings are accurate I think the compressor is internally miswired.
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10-04-2004, 04:17 PM #20
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Suggestion- get yourself a compressor analyzer. Thermal Engineering http://www.thermal-eng.com makes 2 nice ones- a basic model and a full bells/whistles model. Wait until they go on sale- they make the job of figuring out comp's very easy.
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10-04-2004, 04:25 PM #21
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jhd1234 has a great suggestion - a Compressor Analyzer
do you think guys would be interested in knowing what
the problem is instead of guessing or changing parts?
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10-04-2004, 05:56 PM #22
I've got an elderly annie. Kinda like "Granny Annie".

I use it occaisionally, but with the newer DVM's, you can actually read the capacitance without performing calculus.
The relays are tougher to test, but, if the caps are good, and it won't start, try replacing the relay. Often, that will get you going. This is the one thing that an analyzer will tell you that a meter cannot-whether it's worth digging out the relay and Xref or not. Frankly, my relays and Xrefs are easier to get to in the truck than the annie.
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10-07-2004, 12:09 PM #23
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After viewing the pix of your truck Dave, I must agree. It's probably since the manuals and such are all stacked up on your dash board like any good service man.Originally posted by condenseddave
I've got an elderly annie. Kinda like "Granny Annie".
I use it occaisionally, but with the newer DVM's, you can actually read the capacitance without performing calculus.
The relays are tougher to test, but, if the caps are good, and it won't start, try replacing the relay. Often, that will get you going. This is the one thing that an analyzer will tell you that a meter cannot-whether it's worth digging out the relay and Xref or not. Frankly, my relays and Xrefs are easier to get to in the truck than the annie.

Since they got those 3 in 1 kits now, I dont mind not having my Annie handy.
If I cant start a fractional compressor with just a little kit relay, then it's probably toast anyway.
And those ohm readings .... unless I've become confused all over again ... the run should be lower than the start readings.


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