Originally posted by altan
didn`t check the strainers because didn`t wanna warm the box more it was fully loaded.
LAME-OOOOOOOO. You had the time and access to open the stems. It would 've taken five extra minutes to check the screens! A degree or ten more ouldn't have hurt at all, especially if you would've fixed it right the first time, and left there with the cases at 10 below! You're cutting corners, and that's what's got those cases running warm now.

Originally posted by altan
but on a balanced port txv thought because it responded to adjustment might not be the strainer?
Absolutely 100% incorrect. It's just a TXV. Forget about the porting, it doesn't make any difference at all when the cases are down.

Originally posted by altan
didn`t wanna mingle with sight glass was affraid could crack it.
Trust me, son, you ain't as tough as that sightglass. And you still don't know what the oil level is. My guess is that it's way high. Like holy sh!t high. Like bust up a valve plate if any makes it back high. Again, not slowing down and checking basic, seemingly minor things is called cutting corners, and it's causing you, your boss. and that customer unnecessary grief.

Originally posted by altan
definately this job needs more than me but I am the only one to steer this ship in this water.
Bullshit. It easier than you think. Print this out, go back there on a slow morning, (plan to spend the better part of a day there) and take this with you and follow the list, in order. Just do everything I tell you.

Altan's list of things to do:
[list][*]Left to right, write down each case temp and the time.[*]Have the store personell empty out the lefthand corner of each case, so you can get to the valves.
{While they're working on that...}[*]Go to the condensing unit, and install your gauges on the compressor, including an extra lowside gauge on the oil pump. Write down the pressures and the time.[*]Valve off the HOT GAS DEFROST LINE before the solenoid valve, before you do anything else. Does the suction pressure change????????Write it down, yes or no. If yes, write down the new suction pressure. If yes, also, that's a problem, but we'll address that later.[*]Close off the compressor Suction Service Valve, and run the compressor down to atmospheric. Pull your LS gauge off the SSV to make sure it's actually at atmospheric.[*]Get something to catch the oil in, and put it beneath the drain hole of the compressor. (Discus it's the lower left front port.)[*]Remove the two bolts holding the port cover on, you might need to smack the oval cover with a wrench to get it loose. Catch the spring. The spring is critical. NEVER run one without that spring. Oil might come out at this point, but it might NOT. Don't be alarmed if it doesn't. If the oil sump screen doesn't come out on it's own, use two flat blade screwdrivers to pull it out. (Just put them both inside the screen, then pull the handles apart, and pull towards you with a slight twisting motion.[*]Drain all the oil out.[*]Clean the screen with brake cleaner, wipe off the spring, scrape the gasket off.[*]Using a new gasket, reinstall the screen, spring, and cover.[*]Pull the sightglass off the side (Or front, if it's on the front.) by removing the three 1/4-20 bolts. Don't lose them. You might need to smack the glass with a wrench to get IT loose, just like the oval oil drain cover. REMEMBER, that glass is sturdier than you are. Just try not to drop it six feet onto concrete. Save the gasket. You'll need that, too. Clean the inside of the glass with brake cleaner and paper towels, until you can see clearly through it. (No "ghost line" should be left on it.) [*]Reinstall the sightglass, using the old gasket and bolts. This doesn't require superhuman strength, BTW. Just tighten the bolts evenly.[*]If the oil fail control is a 'SENTRONIC', remove the sensor from the side of the oil pump.[*]Spray down the part of the sensor that goes inside the compressor with brake cleaner, make sure that the little O-ring is in place and not damaged, then reinstall the sensor.

Remember, take your time, and work thoroughly, not quickly.
[*]Put your gauge back on the SSV, and put your vacuum pump on the low side of the compressor, and get your air out.[*]After your vacuum is done, pump in fresh oil (Whatever poisin you choose, 408a can use any refrigerant oil...) to 1/2 sightglass. [*]Open up your SSV and start the compressor. Let it stabilize. Leave the Hot gas isolation valve closed for now.[*]Check the comressor against it's published curve. (You'll need the compressor model number, and your Copeland wholesaler can get it for you. If you don't have a Copeland wholesaler nearby, get me the model number, and I'll scan the curve and post it for you.)[*]Check the efficiency like Basser described, even if the the compressor is at it's curve.[*]Go wash your hands, dirtbag.[*]Let it pull the cases down a little, only because it seems to worry you so much. [*]Take a breather. Admire your clean sightglass and nice net oil pressure.[*]Now, pump the system down into the receiver.[*]Replace the liquid line filter-drier before going any further. If there is a suction line filter, either remove it or replace it now.[*]Go out to the cases, start left to right, remove each one of the TXV inlet strainers, and spray them out with brake cleaner. They should be 100% free of debris when they go back in. (A 'little' dirt is too much.)[*]Put the screens back in and tighten them.[*]Pull the superheat adjustment caps, turn the valves back in, (all the way.) counting the number of full turns that it takes to get back to 100% closed. [*]Now turn the stems out, exactly one half the number of turns it took to close them up in the last step. [*]Put the caps back on the valves.[*]Use a flashilight and a mirror, and look at the liquid lines in the case, as someone else mentioned, sometimes you'll find small filter-driers in each case. If they're there, remove them, and braze in the appropriate size copper tube in their place. (Remember, this lineup is going to work when you leave. Don't skip this step. Don't be afraid to get them to pull more product, either, if necessary to get to the filter-driers and anything else, like bad fan motors.)[*]Make sure all of the TXV bulbs are tight.[*]Go back to the compressor room, and evacute your system.[*]Start it back up.[*]Make sure that the liquid line sightglass is full, within a minute or two after startup.[*]Strap a thermometer probe on the suction line next to the suction service valve.[*]Record your suction, discharge, net oil, and liquid line pressures, and case temps and the time, shortly after startup.[*]Once the case fans start going again, and the temp is dropping, check the superheat at the SSV. Write it down, along with the time, and the other pressures, and anything else you think is important, and want to remember.[*]Keep an eye on the compressor oil level, you don't want to go past 3/4 sightglass. [*]Once the case discharge air temps drop off a bit, you can check the individual evaporator superheats. Set them between 8 and 4 degrees for now.

Now, there is more, but I think this will get you down to temp, and will prevent further grief.

Also, print out the next post I make, I'll tell you what to take with you when you go do this, to make sure you're prepared to do this.

DO NOT let this list of things to do intimidate you. It's easy, I do it all the time. You just need to deal with it, that's all.