Elevated Natural Gas Pressure: 7.5" to 11" Water Column - Appliance Issues
I am installing a new swimming pool heater and need to elevate the natural gas pressure at the meter from 7.5" to 11" water column. Will there be any issues with the other appliances with the higher natural gas pressure of 11" W. C.? If there may be a problem, how can I confirm each appliance will work OK with 11" W.C.? My appliances are:
Furnace, Natural gas, Carrier, model # 58UHV1000-20 - 100,000 BTU
Boiler (Radiant Heat), Natural Gas, Prestige Solo 110 - 110,000 BTU
Cooktop, Natural Gas - 40,000 BTU
Grille, Natural Gas - 18,500 BTU
Hot Water Heaters (2) - 68,000 BTU
Thanks in advance for your advice.
11" W.C. on natural gas! that's more than LP. you need to call the gas co and ask this question, you will probably need to step up the pipe size is what they will probably tell you. Natural Gas Rating: 3.5" to 5.5 W.C. L.P.Gas Rating: 10" W.C.
Originally Posted by Truman
Experience is a hard teacher because she gives the test first, the lesson afterwards". -Vernon Law-
"Skilled Labor Isn't Cheap, Cheap Labor Isn't Skilled" - Unknown
Are you sure that pressure you need isnt for propane and not nat gas?
11" on a nat gas line is about double the normal pressure. I can see big bangs in your future if you try and run that high of pressure. Best to call a gas tech or gas plumber about that pool heater.
You need a contractor.
Sounds like you got a LP unit.
I have contacted the gas company and they will be installing the regulator to increase the 'natural' gas pressure to 11.5" water column from 7.5" W.C. The Gas company told me it was my responsibility to ensure the appliances will work OK with the 11.5" W C.
I have a pool contractor installing the new heater, and he has worked with the Gas Company in the past to elevate the gas pressure for other customers.
I checked the specs on the boiler and it has a limitation of 13" W C. I could not find the W C spec on the other appliances. I would think the W C upper limit for a forced air furnace (IE, Carrier model # 58UHV1000-20) would be typically the same for most furnaces. Also, the same for a cook top, grille, and water heater. If not, I will need to contact the manufacturer of each appliance.
Many appliances need an additional pressure reducing valve at their gas inlet to keep the pressure under their maximum. A normal rating for a natural gas appliance like a furnace is a minimum pressure of 4.5-in WC and a maximum of 13.6-in WC. That's why everyone raised their eyebrows at the 7.5 - 11.5 in WC. Those are normally LP gas pressures and sometimes the gas valve is different for LP and sometimes the pilot and/or burner orifices must be changed to a smaller diameter when going from natural to LP. I'd be curious to find out what water heater is being used in your application that requires that kind of pressure. Can you supply a make and model no?
If YOU want change, YOU have to first change.
If you are waiting for the 'other guy' to change first, just remember, you're the 'other guy's' other guy. To continue to expect real change when you keep acting the same way as always, is folly. Won't happen. Real change will only happen when a majority of the people change the way they vote!
Wow I can't believe this is being interpeted so badly.
Originally Posted by skippedover
Has anyone here ever taken a pressure reading of the house pressure at the natural gas meter? you will find it around 8 inches wc.This pressure is the pressure at the enterance each gas valve. In
the gas valve there is a pressure regulator which knocks down the pressure to a working pressure of that appliance.
Some gas valves have a regulator that requires a higher inlet pressure in order to be able to knock it down to the required working pressure for the orfices and burners of that appliance.
Propane is totally differant in tghat the supply from the tank is the working pressure which is why when converting from nat to propane you completely disable the internal nat gas pressure regulator.
Propane is totally differant in tghat the supply from the tank is the working pressure which is why when converting from nat to propane you completely disable the internal nat gas pressure regulator.[/QUOTE]
Your out to lunch on that.
The location of the swimming pool heater is about a 100 - 120 ft from the gas meter. The gas pressure at the present heater is very low, about 2" W. C. because of the long run and diameter of the gas pipe, below 1 1/4". This gas pressure will not work efficiently with a 300,000+ BTU pool heater that I need. The pool contractor believes elevating the gas pressure at the meter to 11" WC will provide 4-4.5" WC at the pool heater which is what the heater needs.
The Gas Company measured the pressure in/out of the meter at 7.5" W. C., similar to what Rep said. Rep, if each appliance has a gas valve to lower the gas pressure to its working level, do I need to worry about the pressure being too high for some appliances?
Skippedover, if natural gas furnaces have a minimum pressure of 4.5-in WC and a maximum of 13.6-in WC, I would think elevating my gas pressure to 11" WC at the meter wouldn't be a problem for the gas furnace. The Pool heater is a Raypak, model 336.
best advice...call your gas co. and you might have to also have a plumber pressent to figure out who will do what work. generaly gas co. is responsible for meter to the street and a plumber can work on anything in side.
In my neck of the woods you need the local gas co to increase the house pressue.If your area doesn't require that,I still think its a good idea.
After the supply pressure is increased you should turn on each appliance one by one .
I have seen pictures of homes that blew up.It is in no way shape or form a joke,its complete distruction.
Last edited by beenthere; 06-10-2010 at 06:04 PM.
Reason: DIY info
2 possibly stupid questions:
1: really nice very high eff boiler, why not get a heat exchanger for that and use it?
2: big boiler and big furnace, 2 crap water heaters? Why no indirect? Accidental design? Abusive contractor?
Which makes more sense to you?
- turning your thermostat back and being uncomfortable. Maybe saving 5-10%
- leaving your thermostat where everyone is comfortable. Saving 30-70%
DO THE NUMBERS! Step on a HOMESCALE.
What is comfort? Well, it AIN'T just TEMPERATURE!
Energy Obese? An audit is the next step - go to BPI.org
, or RESNET
, and find an auditor near you.
I agree, 2 possibly stupid questions.
Originally Posted by tedkidd