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  1. #1

    Question Trane ClimaTuff Scroll model #.

    Can anyone help me with some specs on a Trane 2.3 ton ClimaTuff Scroll model SPR028B1RPZ? I'm going to use it to replace a Copeland Scroll in my Dukane heat pump. Specifically, I need to know what size Rotalock fitting adapters I'll need, or if I can bypass them and sweat the lines inside the Rotalocks like a regular stub?

    Also, this is replacing a replacement Copeland Scroll that only lasted 18 hours before it started hammering and died. My HVAC guy commented on how quiet it ran we started it up, and we had 50 deg. air until it died. He says he has no idea why it failed. It was still pumping when it first started hammering, but then overheated and shut down. When he came back to check it out it started and pulled 10 amps as it hammered away, but it was no longer building any pressure. He has recovered the R-22 and I cut the compressor lines and verified that it still hammered before I disconnected the wiring. When I turned it over on my garage floor I got green oil, which I'm sure is from contamination, but i can't see where that would cause a failure within 18 hours of replacement.

    Any thoughts on this would be great before we chance another new scroll compressor.

    I have to admit this is a lot more complicated than fixing hot tubs!

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    Until he figures out what killed the original and replacement compressor. Your just throwing good money after bad money.

    Your tech should be able to tell you all the info you requested. He should know the size lines you have in the condenser.
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  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
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    Athens GA
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    Oh yea baby,if I just cut off two posts on my chevy block I can get that ford carb on it and away we go.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
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    Quote Originally Posted by DrSpa View Post
    Can anyone help me with some specs on a Trane 2.3 ton ClimaTuff Scroll model SPR028B1RPZ? I'm going to use it to replace a Copeland Scroll in my Dukane heat pump. Specifically, I need to know what size Rotalock fitting adapters I'll need, or if I can bypass them and sweat the lines inside the Rotalocks like a regular stub?

    Also, this is replacing a replacement Copeland Scroll that only lasted 18 hours before it started hammering and died. My HVAC guy commented on how quiet it ran we started it up, and we had 50 deg. air until it died. He says he has no idea why it failed. It was still pumping when it first started hammering, but then overheated and shut down. When he came back to check it out it started and pulled 10 amps as it hammered away, but it was no longer building any pressure. He has recovered the R-22 and I cut the compressor lines and verified that it still hammered before I disconnected the wiring. When I turned it over on my garage floor I got green oil, which I'm sure is from contamination, but i can't see where that would cause a failure within 18 hours of replacement.

    Any thoughts on this would be great before we chance another new scroll compressor.

    I have to admit this is a lot more complicated than fixing hot tubs!

    Green oil is moisture. Probably cooked the upper bearing.
    You need a lot of professional help to clean that up if possible- more than you can do on your own.

  5. #5
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    Apr 2008
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    2.3 ton? dukane? green oil? dude you are in way over your head, maybe your "a/cguy" is too. time to call a pro.
    "When the people find they can vote themselves money,that will herald the end of the republic" - Benjamin Franklin

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  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
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    1,823
    pulling the vacuum without the micron gauge is like driving in New York city with blind-fold on. Green oil

    If any tech pull vacuum on my system without micron gauge. I tell him "I get better chance if you just purge the system with new freon." Green oil

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    South Eastern Missouri
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    426
    Green oil?!? Ahh.. I'd not put another compressor in that system. Why are you using a Trane compressor in a Dukane condenser unit? I would seriously consider replacing the condenser, line set and the evaporator coil, otherwise your just asking for more trouble.
    That level of contamination would kill any compressor in 18 hours, usually in a lot less time.
    A people who would exchange liberty for apparent safety, will deserve neither and lose both.

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by beenthere View Post
    Until he figures out what killed the original and replacement compressor. Your just throwing good money after bad money.

    Your tech should be able to tell you all the info you requested. He should know the size lines you have in the condenser.
    Of course he (Kevin, the HVAC guy) knows what size lines are in my compressor, as do I -- the primary question is what size Rotalocks are on the Trane Scroll unit so I can have the correct Rotalock-to-stub adapters purchased for install day. And then there was my secondary question regarding the ability to sweat the lines to the i.d. of the Rotalocks, in lieu of using the rather expensive adapters. Both questions are quite reasonable to ask. I grabbed this Trane Scroll for $ on eBay, and so yes, I'm addressing the external issue of physical connections ahead of diagnosing the underlying issue that killed the replacement compressor. As for the original compressor failure, I'm sure it was related the physical damage to the condenser coil. Kevin suspects it was ice that broke off the capillary, as we frequently have ice storms here in Nebraska.

    Quote Originally Posted by REP View Post
    Oh yea baby,if I just cut off two posts on my chevy block I can get that ford carb on it and away we go.
    The Trane "Climatuff Scroll" is built in a joint venture with Copeland and is externally identical to the Copeland Scroll except for the fittings and the paint. Internally, it probably has tighter design tolerances. I'm not aware of GM and Ford building cars in a joint venture. You take me for an idiot -- I'm not. I take your input as wasted space in this thread.

    Quote Originally Posted by walterc View Post
    Green oil is moisture. Probably cooked the upper bearing.
    You need a lot of professional help to clean that up if possible- more than you can do on your own.
    Thank you for one of the more productive replies to my post. We did install a filter ahead of the compressor's suction line to deal with the moisture and Kevin evacuated the system down to 500 microns. I believe this was standard procedure -- yes? But obviously this didn't catch all the moisture. I'm not sure what you mean by "a lot of professional help". I've been using this HVAC company for years and Kevin seems as "professional" as any other HVAC tech I've met. He tells me he has the professional equipment needed to clean the system up. Did I imply I was doing this on my own? I don't believe I did.

    Quote Originally Posted by smittyii View Post
    2.3 ton? dukane? green oil? dude you are in way over your head, maybe your "a/cguy" is too. time to call a pro.
    Well, 2.3 ton is apparently what Trane determines that 28,000 btus equivalates in this compressor, but then "nothing runs like a Trane" -- right? As for the system being a Dukane, I only thought they made outdoor grills until I bought this house. Maybe it's a regional marketing thing, but I can't change the fact I have Dukane brand heat pump that's built with a Copeland Scroll compressor and a Texas Instruments control board. I also can't change the fact that the oil is green, and I sure can't change the fact that your input is almost as great of a waste as REP's.

    Quote Originally Posted by just_opinion View Post
    pulling the vacuum without the micron gauge is like driving in New York city with blind-fold on. Green oil

    If any tech pull vacuum on my system without micron gauge. I tell him "I get better chance if you just purge the system with new freon." Green oil
    So what's your point? Are you trying to be helpful, or this "just your opinion"?
    -----------------------------------------------------
    It seems to me that most of you guys spending your time on this forum looking for new ways to insult those who are not "Professional Members". Does this somehow make you feel "more professional"? If you don't want non-HVAC professionals asking questions (and my questions were reasonable and not DIY) then lock this site down to HVAC contractors, only, and quit wasting good Google space with your inflammatory opinions.

    This is my position: I'm a trade school-educated, Electromechanical Technician that's been working in the swimming pool and solar industries for 30+ years. While I did get some minor training in HVAC within my coursework, the reality is that I did not go into HVAC practice and so I lost the little refrigeration knowledge I had to begin with. I was doing J load calculations with a pen and calculator in 1977 to size systems for what was then the first emerging alternative energy programs that the Federal Government was funding with tax incentives. Some of you are probably old enough to remember how miserably that whole thing failed. The geothermal heat pump is probably the best of the technology that survived.

    At any rate, I'm a "non-HVAC professional" that happens to have hired a HVAC professional that's willing to let me buy some cheap equipment and charge me for R-22 and labor. Yes, I cut my own compressor out and even brazed the new one back in with my own OA torch and his HVAC brazing rod. Why, I even installed my own hard-start kit. Does this make me a dreaded DIY'r? Have I somehow tread on Holy Ground so that my inquiry is not worthy of some helpful input? If I wanted to replace this with a whole new system, would it be sacrilegious for me to do my own J load calculations?

    If my questions are reasonable (and I know they are), then either put-up or shut-up. Some of you should even grow-up!

    So, does anyone have some specs for a Trane scroll compressor, model SPR028B1RPZ?
    Last edited by beenthere; 06-04-2010 at 05:00 AM. Reason: price

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by Shamoke View Post
    Green oil?!? Ahh.. I'd not put another compressor in that system. Why are you using a Trane compressor in a Dukane condenser unit? I would seriously consider replacing the condenser, line set and the evaporator coil, otherwise your just asking for more trouble.
    That level of contamination would kill any compressor in 18 hours, usually in a lot less time.
    Finally, some real advice! I had hoped someone would speak the truth -- even if it hurts. Thank you, Shamoke.

    Will anyone object if I buy my new system on eBay and have my HVAC guy put it in?

    It's been a long time since I did a J load calc, but since I finished 1400 sf. of basement after the initial HVAC was put in I'd better get one started.

    Anybody want to buy a Trane Climatuff Scroll compressor, model # SPR028B1RPZ?

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