Capillary Tube

[Airmechanical]

I would agree, but there are going to be a LOT of customers who will throw you out of their place of business for suggesting replacing a functioning pump.

As ice said, it only takes a short time to change the oil and is cheaper than a new pump, even if it might not be the best way to do it.

CYA. Give customer the option and do what they tell you to do. Document and you're covered.

10-4 CYA, leave it in the hands of the customer



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[itsiceman]

I posted Delfield's recommended cap tube size yesterday as .036" x 168". That seemed a bit long to me so I did some checking.

Refrigeration Hardware Supply stocks that same for Delfield, so I assume it's not a misprint.

Then I look into what JB Industries and Supco call for with a 1/3 HP low temp R404A compressor. Both list it as .031" x 30". Using JB's cap tube conversion
chart to go from .031" to a .036" cap tube, they give a factor of 2...so 60" of .036".

This is a good example of how cap tube selection can be quite confusing.

This one might have been restricted from the factory
But more times than not I've found the factory size to be correct for the unit and the generic chart is N/G or too small
Something is weird
Does the unit have one cap tube or two ?

[ascj]

I posted Delfield's recommended cap tube size yesterday as .036" x 168". That seemed a bit long to me so I did some checking.

Refrigeration Hardware Supply stocks that same for Delfield, so I assume it's not a misprint.

Then I look into what JB Industries and Supco call for with a 1/3 HP low temp R404A compressor. Both list it as .031" x 30". Using JB's cap tube conversion
chart to go from .031" to a .036" cap tube, they give a factor of 2...so 60" of .036".

This is a good example of how cap tube selection can be quite confusing.

I stopped over there tonight to look at cap tube again. I roughly estimate around 60-70". Could it be that it just a generic part number and you have to cut it to size for the particular box you have. I did notice the one door with a 1/5hp and the 2 door with 1/3hp have the same .031" x 30".

Should I just go with the rated Supco replacement? I here people say go long then just keep cutting to you get the right size.......how do you do that? Do you have to braze it in, then evacuate, then check, then recover, then cut, then baraze it in, then........etc? That seems insane.

Should I just go by Supco's chart?

[icemeister]

I stopped over there tonight to look at cap tube again. I roughly estimate around 60-70". Could it be that it just a generic part number and you have to cut it to size for the particular box you have. I did notice the one door with a 1/5hp and the 2 door with 1/3hp have the same .031" x 30".

Should I just go with the rated Supco replacement? I here people say go long then just keep cutting to you get the right size.......how do you do that? Do you have to braze it in, then evacuate, then check, then recover, then cut, then baraze it in, then........etc? That seems insane.

Should I just go by Supco's chart?

I suppose the safest advice would be to call Delfield and verify the cap tube size for your specific model.

Personally, I would probably go with what the Supco chart says. It's never steered me wrong...whereas Delfield Tech Support has. Nuff Said.

[icemeister]

I would be interested in what Delfield Tech Support has to say though. You just may be right about the cutting to size of the published length of tube.

I doubt that's the case, but I do enjoy being pleasantly surprised from time to time.

[ascj]

I would be interested in what Delfield Tech Support has to say though. You just may be right about the cutting to size of the published length of tube.

I doubt that's the case, but I do enjoy being pleasantly surprised from time to time.

I'm going to give them a call tomorrow.

[Octopus]

Do you know what this pic is? Just as said replace oil "why not" and size the cap tube "theres have a tool for this" note length and go get yer self a roll of new cap tube and cut to length. Oh when cutting either use a cap tube cutter or use a file and file all around evenly and it will snap nice and clean with no restrictions.

[Wheelbaron]

Wow, I guess I have been doing it all wrong all these years! I have replaced literally hundreds of cap tubes, and not once have I ever tried to change the oil in a tin can! If you are in a bad location where the condenser will get overheated from time to time and the unit is a 134A, change it over to 401 or 409.
As for cutting cap tubes, I just use my wire strippers to score a grove, and snap them. I can't believe anyone would spend that much time on a reach in without improving it by changing over to TXV or AXV.
And to all the guys who haven't a lot of experience with reach ins, True counter units have two screws in the top of each door that go up into the top, take them out, then take out the door hinges, then cut the silicone around the top, then slide the top back an inch or two and it will come off, giving you access to the evap.
Bev air doors just pick up, then take the evap all apart, and try not to burn a big arse hole in the evap when you take out the old cap tube. Those bev air evaps are paper thin, and they don't give you much room to work.

OK I'm done

[surenuff]

Interesting thread. I have had several cap tubes that plugged up over the years. Only recently learned of the waxing problem with 134a machines. I have tried to cut the cap tube back and was successful at getting it to run again for a while. But if you do not change that oil, you will be back. The only reason it waxed your cap tube in the first place was because it had gotten hot. And the properties that plugged it the first time are still in that oil. If you are not going to change the compressor(which is what I strongly recommend) then you better change that oil. Let me tell you how bad this can be. I would and have replaced the compressor and sold the compressor at cost to avoid this problem. You are still going to make the same on labor, and the parts are going to be covered. You are still going to sell the refrigerant and the new dryer and whatever other misc. charges you are going to invoice, and the customer's cost to pay for that compressor at cost will be less or equal to the cost of your labor to take the old one out and change the oil,but at least you can know that the oil is ok. Is this a safe bet? heck no, but it is the best you are going to get.

[Airmechanical]

Interesting thread. I have had several cap tubes that plugged up over the years. Only recently learned of the waxing problem with 134a machines. I have tried to cut the cap tube back and was successful at getting it to run again for a while. But if you do not change that oil, you will be back. The only reason it waxed your cap tube in the first place was because it had gotten hot. And the properties that plugged it the first time are still in that oil. If you are not going to change the compressor(which is what I strongly recommend) then you better change that oil. Let me tell you how bad this can be. I would and have replaced the compressor and sold the compressor at cost to avoid this problem. You are still going to make the same on labor, and the parts are going to be covered. You are still going to sell the refrigerant and the new dryer and whatever other misc. charges you are going to invoice, and the customer's cost to pay for that compressor at cost will be less or equal to the cost of your labor to take the old one out and change the oil,but at least you can know that the oil is ok. Is this a safe bet? heck no, but it is the best you are going to get.

your right;

that is basically what i said earlier



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[surenuff]

your right;

that is basically what i said earlier



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Sorry?

[ascj]

I would be interested in what Delfield Tech Support has to say though. You just may be right about the cutting to size of the published length of tube.

I doubt that's the case, but I do enjoy being pleasantly surprised from time to time.

I'll call tech support today, and they said it's definitely .036"x168". And if it's around 60", then someone replaced or cut it.

[surenuff]

Should work

[ascj]

One last dumb question, I going to have alot of cap tube. I plan on sweating it into the evap, running it up to the suction of the evap and wrapping it 5 times, then running it against the suction to the back and insulating it, and then sweating it into the new drier. I will have alot of length between the drier and the suction line, do I just coil it up and insulate it with cork tape?

[ascj]

So a little update.....
So I got back there today. Removed the gas. Come to find out the cap tube was wrapped around the entire suction line(hence why they said it was 168" and I only guessed 60"). So I purged with n2, and unsweated cap out of coil. Cut the drier and compressor out. Blew through both coils with n2. Replaced the oil in the compressor. I installed the new drier and .036" x 168" cap, just like I took it out. (Also checked cap with a #64 bit after I cut it) Sweated everthing in, while purging n2. Weighed 8oz of 404a in. Still running like there is a restriction. Compressor overheating.

Suction 15.8psi
Discharge 222
Liquid 220
Suction 73 degrees
Liquid 86 degrees
Box temp 80 degrees
Ambient 84 degrees

Any ideas?

BTW- I hate doing favors for friends.

[Dchappa21]

Try adding a couple of more oz of gas to it. You might have a couple stuck in your manifold and hose and probably have a bigger drier now than the factory one.

[ascj]

Try adding a couple of more oz of gas to it. You might have a couple stuck in your manifold and hose and probably have a bigger drier now than the factory one.

I did add 3 more oz to see what would happen. Not much change. It just won't run long enough with a such a high suction to the compressor.

[Dchappa21]

I would still try a few more oz your subcolling is only 9 and your discharge pressure is kinda low for the load... Your suction is also low for the load not high.

Is your evap fan klixon working ????

[ascj]

I would still try a few more oz your subcolling is only 9 and your discharge pressure is kinda low for the load... Your suction is also low for the load not high.

Is your evap fan klixon working ????

I jumped it out.....because the fan wasn't kicking on. I checked it by blowing some liquid on to it and it did close. But left it jumped out as I was checking it.

I was a little hesitant about adding gas, since I was at 11 oz and the plate was 8oz. Would a couple oz really drop my sh that much? I was at like 95+ degrees SH.

[VTP99]

So a little update.....
So I got back there today. Removed the gas. Come to find out the cap tube was wrapped around the entire suction line(hence why they said it was 168" and I only guessed 60"). So I purged with n2, and unsweated cap out of coil. Cut the drier and compressor out. Blew through both coils with n2. Replaced the oil in the compressor. I installed the new drier and .036" x 168" cap, just like I took it out. (Also checked cap with a #64 bit after I cut it) Sweated everthing in, while purging n2. Weighed 8oz of 404a in. Still running like there is a restriction. Compressor overheating.

Suction 15.8psi
Discharge 222
Liquid 220
Suction 73 degrees
Liquid 86 degrees
Box temp 80 degrees
Ambient 84 degrees

Any ideas?

BTW- I hate doing favors for friends.

Head pressure looks low for that ambient.