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Thread: Capillary Tube

  1. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pascone10 View Post
    I am no expert on this subject but

    1. you can try and heat up the tube and free that wax build up.
    2. cut off the first couple inches of the tube and braze it back in as this is where the restriction most is
    when i come across plugged cap tubes, most of the time i just replace the cap tube

    but when i see and smell stinky brown oil, i use the three step plan

    1.replace cap tube
    2.replace compressor
    3.install drier, evacuate,weigh in charge

    never use a cappillary tube shorter than the original length

    as for other statements on this thread about changing oil in a small compressor

    a customers money would be better spent on a new compressor

    as opposed to paying labor in order to change oil on an old compressor

    may be a little more costly for the customer to install a new compressor

    but it's a better plan for the customer, as well as the tech's callback percentage



    .

  2. #15
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    Thanks for all the advise.

    So it's a new cap tube, drier, and oil.

  3. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Airmechanical View Post
    when i come across plugged cap tubes, most of the time i just replace the cap tube

    but when i see and smell stinky brown oil, i use the three step plan

    1.replace cap tube
    2.replace compressor
    3.install drier, evacuate,weigh in charge

    never use a cappillary tube shorter than the original length

    as for other statements on this thread about changing oil in a small compressor

    a customers money would be better spent on a new compressor

    as opposed to paying labor in order to change oil on an old compressor

    may be a little more costly for the customer to install a new compressor

    but it's a better plan for the customer, as well as the tech's callback percentage



    .
    I would agree, but there are going to be a LOT of customers who will throw you out of their place of business for suggesting replacing a functioning pump.

    As ice said, it only takes a short time to change the oil and is cheaper than a new pump, even if it might not be the best way to do it.

    CYA. Give customer the option and do what they tell you to do. Document and you're covered.

  4. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by ascj View Post
    Thanks for all the advise.

    So it's a new cap tube, drier, and oil.
    I posted Delfield's recommended cap tube size yesterday as .036" x 168". That seemed a bit long to me so I did some checking.

    Refrigeration Hardware Supply stocks that same for Delfield, so I assume it's not a misprint.

    Then I look into what JB Industries and Supco call for with a 1/3 HP low temp R404A compressor. Both list it as .031" x 30". Using JB's cap tube conversion
    chart to go from .031" to a .036" cap tube, they give a factor of 2...so 60" of .036".

    This is a good example of how cap tube selection can be quite confusing.

  5. #18
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    Last time i had one of those it had plugged the cap tube because the evap leaked then it pumped into a vacuum .
    Expensive messy fix, then again it was a beveragejunk unit.
    You sure are cocky for a starving pilgrim.

  6. #19
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    .
    Last edited by ascj; 05-09-2010 at 05:14 PM. Reason: Sorry double post

  7. #20
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    The cap tube looks original. It feeds down to the evap. Then wraps around the suction line right after the coil 5 times. It then runs against the suction line to the back and into the drier. I can't imagine it's 168" long.

    My guess would be around 50-70" long.

  8. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by jpsmith1cm View Post
    I would agree, but there are going to be a LOT of customers who will throw you out of their place of business for suggesting replacing a functioning pump.

    As ice said, it only takes a short time to change the oil and is cheaper than a new pump, even if it might not be the best way to do it.

    CYA. Give customer the option and do what they tell you to do. Document and you're covered.
    10-4 CYA, leave it in the hands of the customer



    .

  9. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by icemeister View Post
    I posted Delfield's recommended cap tube size yesterday as .036" x 168". That seemed a bit long to me so I did some checking.

    Refrigeration Hardware Supply stocks that same for Delfield, so I assume it's not a misprint.

    Then I look into what JB Industries and Supco call for with a 1/3 HP low temp R404A compressor. Both list it as .031" x 30". Using JB's cap tube conversion
    chart to go from .031" to a .036" cap tube, they give a factor of 2...so 60" of .036".

    This is a good example of how cap tube selection can be quite confusing.
    This one might have been restricted from the factory
    But more times than not I've found the factory size to be correct for the unit and the generic chart is N/G or too small
    Something is weird
    Does the unit have one cap tube or two ?
    “If You Can Dodge A Wrench You Can Dodge A Ball”

  10. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by icemeister View Post
    I posted Delfield's recommended cap tube size yesterday as .036" x 168". That seemed a bit long to me so I did some checking.

    Refrigeration Hardware Supply stocks that same for Delfield, so I assume it's not a misprint.

    Then I look into what JB Industries and Supco call for with a 1/3 HP low temp R404A compressor. Both list it as .031" x 30". Using JB's cap tube conversion
    chart to go from .031" to a .036" cap tube, they give a factor of 2...so 60" of .036".

    This is a good example of how cap tube selection can be quite confusing.
    I stopped over there tonight to look at cap tube again. I roughly estimate around 60-70". Could it be that it just a generic part number and you have to cut it to size for the particular box you have. I did notice the one door with a 1/5hp and the 2 door with 1/3hp have the same .031" x 30".

    Should I just go with the rated Supco replacement? I here people say go long then just keep cutting to you get the right size.......how do you do that? Do you have to braze it in, then evacuate, then check, then recover, then cut, then baraze it in, then........etc? That seems insane.

    Should I just go by Supco's chart?

  11. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by ascj View Post
    I stopped over there tonight to look at cap tube again. I roughly estimate around 60-70". Could it be that it just a generic part number and you have to cut it to size for the particular box you have. I did notice the one door with a 1/5hp and the 2 door with 1/3hp have the same .031" x 30".

    Should I just go with the rated Supco replacement? I here people say go long then just keep cutting to you get the right size.......how do you do that? Do you have to braze it in, then evacuate, then check, then recover, then cut, then baraze it in, then........etc? That seems insane.

    Should I just go by Supco's chart?
    I suppose the safest advice would be to call Delfield and verify the cap tube size for your specific model.

    Personally, I would probably go with what the Supco chart says. It's never steered me wrong...whereas Delfield Tech Support has. Nuff Said.

  12. #25
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    I would be interested in what Delfield Tech Support has to say though. You just may be right about the cutting to size of the published length of tube.

    I doubt that's the case, but I do enjoy being pleasantly surprised from time to time.

  13. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by icemeister View Post
    I would be interested in what Delfield Tech Support has to say though. You just may be right about the cutting to size of the published length of tube.

    I doubt that's the case, but I do enjoy being pleasantly surprised from time to time.
    I'm going to give them a call tomorrow.

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