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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Posts
    16
    Mr Slim Mitsubishi
    Can someone give me a link for trouble shooting Mr. Slim? We have 5 of them. One has a pad on the wall the others have remote controls. The other day the pad went blank. I could not find a reset but pulled little plug, that tested 11V, on the board in the evaporator and that reset it. It worked for a couple of days and stopped. The display said Check P8. Im thinking I should replace the board but I dont like to just replace parts. If I take the cover off the pad there are a bunch of dip switches. Id like to know what setting them does. Thanks.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Hampton Roads, Virginia
    Posts
    1,604
    the website is http://www.mrslim.com but appears to be down at this time.
    "Profit is not the legitimate purpose of business. The legitimate purpose of business is to provide a product or service that people need and do it so well that it's profitable."

    James Rouse

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Hampton Roads, Virginia
    Posts
    1,604
    The P8 code means that the outdoor section is not working, disconnecting the plug and plugging it back in reset the outdoor section.
    "Profit is not the legitimate purpose of business. The legitimate purpose of business is to provide a product or service that people need and do it so well that it's profitable."

    James Rouse

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Posts
    16
    Thanks for the prompt reply. It's a beautiful day in Jersey I thought I would be the only one on today. The outside unit was full of acorns a mouse nest and a dead mouse. Since P8 means outside unit can i assume and replace the outside board or does that make an ass of me? You know what you are doing so are not part of assume. How could I check to see if the inside board is ok or not? When I reset it the outside worked for a while. It runs fine if I push in the contactor.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Hampton Roads, Virginia
    Posts
    1,604
    The P8 code is activated by no temperature difference between return and supply, indicating that the outdoor section is not running(after a time delay). I would suggest that you get the outdoor section fully checked out, if there are pressure controls fitted it could be going off on high or low pressure, the control board is unlikely to be the problem.
    "Profit is not the legitimate purpose of business. The legitimate purpose of business is to provide a product or service that people need and do it so well that it's profitable."

    James Rouse

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Posts
    16
    Thanks again. I don't think there are any pressure controls - I did't see any pressure switches. I'll check again on Tues.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2002
    Location
    NJ - WORK IN NYC AREA
    Posts
    1,457

    Smile

    If memory serves, P8 is the sensor on the outdoor coil. Please check slim site or you can call them and they will send manuals if you cant down load them.
    "My hands are for sale"

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Posts
    47
    George42;

    Want a quick shot at fixing this problem???
    -- change the condensor section contactor out--

    I chased this problem for several days until I stumbled up and caught one running the compressor without running the condenser fan! Have now REPAIRED eleven of them so far, and in each and every instance, the contactor has been the culprit!

    Robt.

    PS Gosh, I wish that I could give a REALLY long-winded reply to this one!! ;-)
    "There is no conflict in truth" -me.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Under The Milky Way
    Posts
    129
    George42,

    I work with Mr Slim day in and day out, having been trained and approved by Mitsubishi.

    P8 could mean 2 different things, depending on the control system in use. There are 2 types, A and K. The easiest way to decide in on the gas. If it's on R22, then you have a K control, if it's R410A (I don't know if you use R407C) then it's an A control. The very last letter on the model number will be either A or K.

    If it's a K control P8 means that there is an outdoor unit malfunction
    If it's an A control P8 means that there's an abnormality in pipe temperature.

    If you can email me back and let me know either the model number or "freon" type, I can talk you through it all.

    Regards
    James
    A problem shared is a problem halved

  10. #10

    Confused Error P6 on key pad

    James any idea what P6 means? and what is the fix? Thanks

  11. #11
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Under The Milky Way
    Posts
    129
    P6 means that the coil on the indoor unit is running either too cold-less than -15 F or over 70F. In cooling mode, which I assume is the case at this time of year it will possibly be icing up. Most common cause is dirty filters, or if not then check suction pressure and convert to evaporating temp on your gages. It may be a loss of freon due to a leak. If you want the codes, give me an e-mail address and I'll e-mail them to you. Let me know how you get on. I'd be happy to guide you through if you give me an idea of symptoms.

    Regards
    James
    A problem shared is a problem halved

  12. #12

    Thumbs up Mr Slim error Code

    Thanks James. Let me give you some background on this unit, it was installed and running perfectly in the front of the building, it was removed and reinstalled in an office in the back of the building not that it makes any difference. After it was installed and charged the unit would run for 15 minutes and turn off with a P6 error on the key pad. After working with it while we noticed that the High side, from the evaporator coil frosting back?

    We vacuumed the system out again and recharged it to get a P8 error code on the key pad. It will run for about an half hour and turn off and give me the P8 error. Any help would be appreciated. That error code list would be great too. Please send the error code list to estichw1@optonline.net Thanks again!

  13. #13
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Under The Milky Way
    Posts
    129
    Hi,

    The 2 fault codes you are getting are related to each other. The P6 code is generated because of a freezing or overheat protection in the pipe or on the evaporator or condenser coil. If the temerature is abnormal as detected by the thermistor, the unit will shut down to protect itself. The causes of this could be a number of things. The most obvious would be bad airflow-I don't think from what you say that the filters would be blocked, if the fan on the indoor ubit is not running properly, the same effect would be had. Make certain that the fan on the outdoor ubit is operating correctly(although this would really only affect the system in heating mode if it is a heat pump). The frosting back on the discharge line could be a result of an overcharge of refrigerant, or a restriction in the liquid line as well as a problem with the reversing valve if fitted-so check that as well to make sure it is operating OK. What I would do is to follow the frosting on the liquid line to see how far back it goes and whether it leads to a blockage somewhere. This will be easy to spot as if there is a blockage, there would be a quite large temperature difference in the line across it. I notice that the unit has been moved to another office. If this office is smaller or has a much lower heat load than the area where the unit was previously installed the fault codes would be generated, due to either the operation at a temperature lower than the units tolerance range, or short cycling of air.
    P8 code is generated because of an abnormality in the pipe temperature, the frost on the line would explain why you have this code, as the pipe temperature must be within a set range(which is the lower temperature between the evaporator temp and the liquid line temp-intake temperature-the thermistor needs to detect a temperature within 3 degrees C of this range, but thats not really important). It takes a minimum of 9 minutes to detect the fault Causes could be either a disconnected thermistor, or a shortage of refrigerant, defective reversing valve or even a piping fault (quite rare)make sure the maximum pipe run is not exceeded. Have you checked the liquid line temp where it leaves the condenser?.
    There are numerous explanations and if you could give me air temps and suction pressures for this I could probably help yu to pinpoint the exact cause, but from what you have said already it is strange that the problem only occurs once the unit is moved so I suspect there is either a large reduction in cooling load, or perhaps the space to be air conditioned is much smaller causing the unit to short cycle cooled air back over the coil, giving the characteristics of an overcharged unit (assuming that the charge is completely correct)
    Sorry for such a long winded reply, but if you could give me a bit more info, then I'm certain we would be able to nail it.

    Best Wishes
    James
    A problem shared is a problem halved

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