Replybypass is not necessary thermostat/controls know how much air the duct can handle and use so your assumption that the installer may not be knowledgeable is correct
Regular Guest
We are in the process of getting proposals to replace our current York split system ( 4 ton A/C, 120k NG furnace) in our 3100 sf house (2 floors and 75% of the basement finished - the other 25% was left as a storage room) which was built in 1995. The master bedroom has a sitting room attached to it that sits above the garage and has a sloped ceiling that faces west. The result is that this room is tyoically much warmer and cooler that then rest of the house. For the past few years we have been using a small window a/c to cool the room before we go to bed.
One of the proposals is for a Carrier Infinity system (furnace - 58CVA110-20, A/C - 24APA748A30) and creating 2 zones (upstairs, downstairs). The technician also mention installing a barometric bypass, but in reading through these forums it seems that this may not be necessary. Is that the case? If so, it seems that that company (or at least this technician) may not have the needed experience with theses systems.
Regular Guest
bypass is not necessary thermostat/controls know how much air the duct can handle and use so your assumption that the installer may not be knowledgeable is correct
Banned
Bypass can't be used,it will have an ill effect on the proprioritary controls of the Infinity,like no other!!!
Regular Guest
One more question, if you don't mind...
Currently, the old system has its thermostat on the first floor. Will the addition of the second zone on the second floor with its seperate thermostat make my electric/gas costs go up since that zone is normally hotter (summer)/cooler (winter) than the main level?. It seems to me that that zone would possibly be calling for cooling/heating when the main level is fine, therefore adding more "run" time of the air conditioning or furnace. Is this right?
Banned
Yes ,providing the same temperature on both floors could cost more then what you have put up with.
However if you have sleeping on the top floor and living on the first,set backs can be used (day versus night)that should save that.
Regular Guest
Thanks!
Professional Member
With carrier infinity you don't use bypass.You would use a variable speed furnace.When zone open or close,the furnace knows,thus speeding and slowing down fan to deliver proper airflow to each zone.the system knows and communicates between all components to give furnace high or low fire and outdoor 1or 2 stage compreesor operation(if you have high seer 2 stage compressor) Carriers 2 stage zone system is (in my opinion) the best true zoning system because it truly varies airflow and system airflow when zone open and close.It does not bypass and waste conditioned air.Check it out .I think that it is a good system,If zoning is what you want.
God Speed, Jim. We'll miss you - 2-26-23
Probably reduce your heating bill some. Since its probably warmer on the second floor in the winter.Originally Posted by intruder196
Good chance it will raise your cooling bill some. But might not be as much as you think. Since the first floor zone won't call for cooling as often as it does now.
Professional Member
[QUOTE=intruder196;6044732]We are in the process of getting proposals to replace our current York split system ( 4 ton A/C, 120k NG furnace) in our 3100 sf house (2 floors and 75% of the basement finished - the other 25% was left as a storage room) which was built in 1995. /QUOTE]
I live about 30 miles west of you and also have a 3,100 sf home (no basement that normally takes little heating and cooling). When I purchased it a few years ago it had heating capacity of about the same as yours and 5.5 tons of cooling.
A careful load calc determined that the home actually needed only 44,000 BTUs of heating and 3.2 tons of cooling and the home is probably not as tight as yours as it is a 120 year old farm house.
Since you are going with a top of the line system - and I'm sure it comes with a price tag to reflect that, have a proper load calc done to size it correctly. What my home needed does not mean that is what your home will need, but it sure makes you wonder if the current sizing is correct.
With zoning, during the summer months, you may be able to size your cooling load to the peak demand based on the building diversity. This should allow you to cool the home sufficiently with a smaller unit (my cooling load of 3.2 tons does not factor in diversity).
Last point - the room you have over the garage is probably not insulated properly. Very common issue in that the insulation between the ceiling of the garage and the floor of the room is installed with a air gap between the insulation and the floor. This air gap is probably open to the attic and allows unconditioned attic air under the floor of the room - effectively making the floor uninsulated.
The second problem these rooms have is the insulation of the knee walls. Since the knee walls back to attic space they should be insulated the same as the ceiling R30 - R38. They are normally insulated the same as every other wall at R13 - R15. Fix these issues if you have them and you will save money everyday not dumping excessive cooling and heating into that room. And the room will be more comfortable too.
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