Blower for Heatilator 3036
I have a Heatilator 3036 that uses convection to distribute heat. The unit is old but in good condition (all panels tight, no rust/erosion of metal) and I'd like to add a blower to put out more heat. The room air intake appears to be a 1" x 36" slot at the bottom front so I could make a plenum and drive it with a bath fan. Is this possible? I've seen such fan setups (low profile plenum with fan at one end that lays on hearth) but don't know if such was ever made for this unit (ie if the 3036 was designed for a blower). The plenum would have to be built to allow clearance/usage of the slide vent at the bottom (to get air to the fire), but this isn't a major issue.
3036 is not a complete model number.
There is a ND3630, is that what you have? If so you can order a GFK21B from any heatilator dealer.
The heatilator 3036 uses square blowers that sit inside your air vents you should have one on each side. Not worth the money if you can find it. Rotom makes blowers like this but I have never researched the size.
The plate inside box says "MARK 123" with stamped "3036" just after it. I didn't see a manual or parts for this on Heatilator's site - this was installed when house was built in 1982.
After firing it up, there is no convection heating... I wrongly assumed air would go into the slot below the doors and come out the louver above the doors, but air is getting pulled into both vents from draft created by the heat (and going up/out somewhere...).
I had the inside panels/back firebricks off yesterday and didn't notice if air from around the box is blocked from going up around the outside of the "chimney" duct - if not, any blower will just blow it up - nor do I know if this model designed for blowers. It seems bad design to have room air pulled in for no reason - air gets to the firebox from elsewhere.
I somewhat blocked the top and bottom vents and it doesn't affect the flame. If Scubasteve is right, I don't see where fans could be mounted.
HL Mark 123
Chris, forget about the convection blower, you have more serious issues:
Those aftermarket doors are a fire hazard. You are blocking the cooling air that goes in through the lower slot you described. The air strips heat off the firebox then is entrained into the stack to turbocharge the chimney. You have just defeated the primary cooling system of the fireplace.
No, this unit did not take a blower/ fan.
You also have an aftermarket grate that should be removed. This basket grate will burn hotter and faster than designed and is thus a fire hazard. In additon, by not being attached at the rear, it can shift forwards spilling heat and smoke out the front or overheating the header area.
You can use only parts tested and listed by the mfr. Even though HL quit making this series Fp in 1986, you can still get some basic parts such as refractories and grates. Contact your local HL dealer.
Then get a professional inspection. You may want to get a level III inspection to see if the framing has been pyrolyzed from years of burning with the cooling system compromised. I would not burn this Fp until it has been inspected by a pro.
Keep the fire inside the fireplace.
Thanks for reply - your post to someone else described the chimney vents below the damper and helped me understand the air intakes on this are to cool the firebox and NOT for convection to heat the room.
The doors on this unit are Heatilator 2236 approved by UL. The air goes in two places - the photo shows the air intake below the doors and tinfoil is visible hanging out of the upper intake under the louver. I temporarily blocked both just to see if it affected the fire - it doesn't. The firebox intake is not visible, but is located below the doors (horizontal with a sliding grate to control air flow). I pulled the tinfoil so all cooling intakes are open. The unit is functioning as designed now.
And thanks for confirming that this model is not designed for blowers.
I got on this forum after attempting to put an old Colony Hearth insert in this Heatilator. Only reason I didn't is because it wouldn't fit even after I pulled off what I could. Now I know that would have been bad - I'd need to install an insert approved for this Heatilator, and will need a chimney liner. I had the Earth Stove in a masonry fireplace for years with no liner, but it had a one piece firebox/chimney and guess I'm lucky I had no fire. I'd wrongly assumed an insert would be easier on a chimney than open fire until I read chimneys get stressed because inserts burn much hotter. I'm going to let a friend borrow the Earth Stove, but we'll install a chimney liner. I'm trying to talk him into getting it inspected first - is an 80 year old two story house burning fires all season and never inspected. We should be doing a quick inspection today - I got his attention after telling him I read of a flue opening that had been restricted to the size of a quarter.
I'm not so concerned about this Heatilator, and will only block the vents when it's not in use (heat goes up/out even with damper closed). Our city occupancy inspector is from the fire department, so I'll ask him about this (it was approved 4 years ago). I'll read more but assume a Level III inspection involves ripping apart to see wood behind the Heatilator.
I'll start a new thread about the Colony Hearth (insert has no bracket to attach a liner fitting/adaptor). Now I'm very glad it wouldn't fit in this Heatilator - I wouldn't have learned about this stuff the easy way (BEFORE the house fire...).
HTH - also thanks for note on the grate. I'll be careful for now (not to overload it, and to ensure it doesn't slide forward) and see about getting a proper HL grate. The doors don't get super hot but do radiate some heat - my "blower" setup now is just a box fan on low speed across the doors - it keeps the furnace from running as much, but I miss the days when that Earth Stove would heat the house 15F above the thermostat setting.
Chris, I went onto the HL dealer website and doors are no longer listed as available from HL and the installation manuals are not online. I have a few Mark 123 manuals lying around so if I find one, I'll advise if doors are listed. If so, you still need to verify those HL doors are listed for use with this Fp.
As for installing an insert woodstove into this fireplace---don't. There is no recognized way of installing an insert woodstove into a factory built fireplace. Neither the fireplace listing, UL 127, nor the stove, UL, 1482, nor the liner, UL 1777 have a provision for testing and listing a woodstove into a factory built fireplace. Sure, mfrs. will sell you their stoves claiming blanket listings but these are not recognized by the codes. Moreover, these installation do cause unfriendly fires.
Keep the fire inside the fireplace.
Thanks for the research.
I attached a photo of the label on the door assembly. It would seem these doors are okay (by UL standards in those days). Also good to see the paper label is not scorched after all these years.
I'll not put an insert in this Heatilator (I saw one on Craigslist that said it was okay to use in this Heatilator model, but maybe that was for fit only). So you're saying that even with a chimney liner etc, an insert can't be used in this - and to get a woodburning heater, I'd have to rip it all out - maybe only saving the hole through the roof? Could a different ZC unit be installed without destroying the brick facade etc?
Interesting coincidence... Yesterday we were working in a rehab with a "fake" fireplace (no chimney, for electric/ventless insert only) and I told my buddy it looks like mine without the doors. Sure enough was a standard Mark 123 3036 (black front with coiled screen only), and you could tell it had had a wood fire in it. Hopefully it was used elsewhere besides this home. Seems dangerous to have such a unit in a rental without a sign on it.
Not just dangerous, but probably not legal either. I am surprised they are able to get insurance on the place with a wood fireplace installed with no chimney.
Originally Posted by Chris87654